Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

[Wizcrafts]

Ginny;

I just saw how you mistook my phrase "lowest position" for the stitch regulator as being based on the numbers on the bars! I meant physically lowest point, downward, which would be around number 5 on the bar.

With the pressor foot and needle up, carefully grab a-hold of the bottom of the foot and see how much wiggle there is forward and backward. If there is a fair amount of movement possible when you push and pull the foot forward/backward, the part that causes the stitches to advance is worn out. I can't give an exact amount of motion, but I would feel confident in saying that if that foot can be moved 1/8" or more, the drive mechanism is worn out. A machinist who bronze brazes may be able to reduce the slack, or, you may be able to buy replacement parts somewhere.

[Luke Hatley]

............i do beleive it's time to get a sewing machine repair person..

and do tell us what he did to fix the machine. i really want to know.

[Cobra Steve]

ok, soooo... im a visual person, so i took some more pictures and uploaded another video with better lighting/focus.

luke, i dropped the needle down as far as it would go so that it was as low as possible when in the down position. still no luck.

1st are the shots of highest/lowest needle positions, with the plate in/out of position so you can see better.

the video shows the correct thread path, including going under the pressure plate etc... followed directions exactly for this, dont think its the problem.

1st thing to note in the video... something as simple as the thread coming off the bobbin... does it go to the left or the right of the machine (front or back in the video, since i am looking at it from the side) also, no matter which way it goes, the thread does not pass UNDER the plate when rotating... is it supposed to?

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=G3iOT7VnU3Y

thanks to everyone for their continued patience... it is much appreciated!

Hi Ginny, by looking at the 4 thumbnail pictures, the third one to be exact, I see the needle is not in the machine correctly. You should be able to thread the machine left to right. I also see the scarf(the cutout above the eye),it too should be facing to the right. Turn the needle 90 degrees to the right and see what happens. Thanks, Steve

[oldtimer]

One last try: Do you have the right needle in your machine? In my Adler 30-1 I use either 332 LL or Singer 29x3 needle system.

[Luke Hatley]

TO ADD WHAT OLDTIMER SAID, MY ADLER 30-5 USES A "L0NG" NEEDLE #

332

29X3

022

dix3

GROZ-BECKERT

THIS INFORMATION IS WHAT IS ON THE PACKAGE

Edited November 10, 2009 by Luke Hatley

[ginny]

Thanks to everyone who is posting! i would like to state that despite my computer literacy being pretty high, i seem unable to note the pg 1 vs pg 2 designation at the bottom of the page.

i have refreshed the posting several times in the last day or two... and feel pretty silly about now.

SOOOOOO WITH THAT SAID...

1. i know it is a 140 needle... Groz Beckert. it is a round barrel all the way around, and has a groove in the shank. the best i can tell you is that this specific needle worked about a year ago. so, i ASSUME (with risks! lol) that it should work again.

based on a 1:1 chart i found of their needles... i can tell you it is NOT a thread left or right specific needle, it is also not a twist point.

if i had to GUESS, i would say its a 2099 series or a 29 series

2. as for the needle being in the wrong position, i am AGAIN confused, because some people are telling me its correct, and some of you are telling me it is incorrect. i am posting pictures again of its most current setup.

3. as for the stitch length bracket, it IS at its lowest physical position, resulting in about 10 stitches per inch.. or should i say holes per inch, as the stitch is not being created.

[tonyc1]

Thanks to everyone who is posting! i would like to state that despite my computer literacy being pretty high, i seem unable to note the pg 1 vs pg 2 designation at the bottom of the page.

i have refreshed the posting several times in the last day or two... and feel pretty silly about now.

SOOOOOO WITH THAT SAID...

1. i know it is a 140 needle... Groz Beckert. it is a round barrel all the way around, and has a groove in the shank. the best i can tell you is that this specific needle worked about a year ago. so, i ASSUME (with risks! lol) that it should work again.

based on a 1:1 chart i found of their needles... i can tell you it is NOT a thread left or right specific needle, it is also not a twist point.

if i had to GUESS, i would say its a 2099 series or a 29 series

2. as for the needle being in the wrong position, i am AGAIN confused, because some people are telling me its correct, and some of you are telling me it is incorrect. i am posting pictures again of its most current setup.

3. as for the stitch length bracket, it IS at its lowest physical position, resulting in about 10 stitches per inch.. or should i say holes per inch, as the stitch is not being created.

The needle looks correct to me.

Tony.

[Wizcrafts]

I don't know if this has been tried yet, but let's go over it in case it hasn't been done yet.

• Thread the needle
• Raise the pressor foot with the lift lever
• Open the bobbin case cover plate and remove the bobbin from the bobbin case
• Replace the empty case in the hole
• Place a narrow piece of 1/8" thick firm leather under the needle (vegtan or latigo leather will do)
• Lower the pressor foot onto the material
• Slowly rotate the hand wheel toward you from the top until the needle penetrates the material
• Shine a light down from the right side and position it so you can see the point of the bobbin case and the needle below the material
• You should rotate the wheel until the bobbin case's pickup point move just past the needle and halts
• As you continue to rotate the wheel the needle should raise slightly, forming a loop to the right side, in front of the pickup point
• As you rotate more the bobbin case should reverse direction and move towards the eye of the needle, as the needle stays in position
• The thread loop should be captured by the point as the point wipes past the loop
• The top thread should be pulled over and under the bobbin case, then released as the needle moves up
• The foot should pull the material back for the next stitch.

Please perform these actions, slowly and report if the thread is indeed looping to the inside (right) and if it is picked up by the bobbin case pickup point. All stitching depends on this happening as described.

By the way: A #22 needle is best used with #138 thread. What size is the thread you are using now? If you are using #69 thread with that large needle, chances are good that skipped stitches will result.

PSS: A 29x3 needle measures a tish over 1 3/4" length. If your needle is shorter than 1 3/4" it won't sew. If it is measurably longer it would feed the looped thread under the shuttle that drives the bobbin case, jamming the machine.

[tonyc1]

I don't know if this has been tried yet, but let's go over it in case it hasn't been done yet.

• Thread the needle
• Raise the pressor foot with the lift lever
• Open the bobbin case cover plate and remove the bobbin from the bobbin case
• Replace the empty case in the hole
• Place a narrow piece of 1/8" thick firm leather under the needle (vegtan or latigo leather will do)
• Lower the pressor foot onto the material
• Slowly rotate the hand wheel toward you from the top until the needle penetrates the material
• Shine a light down from the right side and position it so you can see the point of the bobbin case and the needle below the material
• You should rotate the wheel until the bobbin case's pickup point move just past the needle and halts
• As you continue to rotate the wheel the needle should raise slightly, forming a loop to the right side, in front of the pickup point
• As you rotate more the bobbin case should reverse direction and move towards the eye of the needle, as the needle stays in position
• The thread loop should be captured by the point as the point wipes past the loop
• The top thread should be pulled over and under the bobbin case, then released as the needle moves up
• The foot should pull the material back for the next stitch.

Please perform these actions, slowly and report if the thread is indeed looping to the inside (right) and if it is picked up by the bobbin case pickup point. All stitching depends on this happening as described.

By the way: A #22 needle is best used with #138 thread. What size is the thread you are using now? If you are using #69 thread with that large needle, chances are good that skipped stitches will result.

PSS: A 29x3 needle measures a tish over 1 3/4" length. If your needle is shorter than 1 3/4" it won't sew. If it is measurably longer it would feed the looped thread under the shuttle that drives the bobbin case, jamming the machine.

I've never used an Adler patcher, but I have a Singer and the hand wheel must turn clockwise to operate.

Tony.

[ginny]

thanks to further posts.

i have to run out for a bit, but i will be back around 2pm EST, and will try wiz's method of checking, involving the flashlight etc.

thanks!

will give a full update.