Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

[Trox]

Hawgman!

25 Nov 10.08 Norway Time

I`m on my way to the post office! I send it as a letter free of charge. (Cost only 6 USD)

Tor

Shipped today as a express letter! 4 - 7 days! (12 USD)

Tor

[CowboyBob]

Here's a pic of how the shuttle driver should look when it's all the way clockwise.

You'll need to loosen the set screw underneath on the farside & turn the bolt to adjust then retinghten the screw.

Miktigger,I think your thread is correct size,do you have any idea how old it is?

Singer 29 Timing.bmp

Singer 29 Timing.bmp

[DougVL]

Ginny;

I just saw how you mistook my phrase "lowest position" for the stitch regulator as being based on the numbers on the bars! I meant physically lowest point, downward, which would be around number 5 on the bar.

With the pressor foot and needle up, carefully grab a-hold of the bottom of the foot and see how much wiggle there is forward and backward. If there is a fair amount of movement possible when you push and pull the foot forward/backward, the part that causes the stitches to advance is worn out. I can't give an exact amount of motion, but I would feel confident in saying that if that foot can be moved 1/8" or more, the drive mechanism is worn out. A machinist who bronze brazes may be able to reduce the slack, or, you may be able to buy replacement parts somewhere.

A person with a Singer 29K had the same problem with short stitch length. (So do I!) And other problems too. He wrote a really good article about rebuilding it, and included lots of pictures. It's posted on another site as a MS Word document. Here's a link:

http://needlebar.org/_main/restoration/Singer29K13.doc

It's a large file because of the pictures (4.2MB).

I hope other 29K (& Adler) users will find it helpful too.

Doug

[Wizcrafts]

A person with a Singer 29K had the same problem with short stitchlength. (So do I!) And other problems too. He wrote a really goodarticle about rebuilding it, and included lots of pictures. It's postedon another site as a MS Word document.

I built up the feed motion crank lever lobe on an old 29K something I had, because its maximum stitch length was too short. I may be doing it again on the 1920's 29-4 I have now. I used a bronze welding rod and a propane torch, with a pinpoint nozzle, to get the steel lobe red hot. I added a thin layer of bronze around the worn out steel lobe, then worked it into shape with a file and emery cloth, for the closest fit that allowed it to rotate 360 degrees. I finished it off on a buffing wheel and when I installed it into the bottom of the head, I got 5 stitches per inch, in 12 oz of leather.

[MikTigger]

Thanks Sewmun! Looks like I have stitches too.

I adjusted the timing according to the diagram you posted, and I have stitches now. The guy at the shoe repair place had shown me his timing method, but it was off. I have to hold the thread to the rear with a little tension, and I'm not getting the first few stitches to catch, but that's just on test pieces so far. I'll put a couple new pieces of leather in it and try it next.

I've tried new and old thread. However, since this last adjustment, it hasn't cut it. I did start one line where the needle stuck through the thread. Stuck the needle through my finger trying to pull it off. I suppose that's another good use for the tiny pieces of leather I refuse to toss.

The needle seems to be punching a massive hole for this little thread to be running though. I'm going to try a smaller needle also. Any idea what the maximum thread size for this machine is? I didn't see it in the manual, it just says "Match needle thread to material thickness and use left-torsion threads." And "The bobbin thread should be thinner or softer than the needle thread."

I'll try a few things and post again.

[CowboyBob]

MikTigger,

Have you checked how close the needle is to the shuttle?Do you know it's adjustable by using the screw above the screw that holds the needle in?You loosen it & it'll move left to right & it needs to be as close as you can get w/o touching,this allows you to adj f/different sizes of needles & thread comdos.

[MikTigger]

Yes. I have it moved as close as possible. With the smaller 120 needle, I have it all the way to the right. It will stitch, and they're nice and tight and even once it does catch. But it's hard to get the top thread to pick up the bobbin thread. I think I just need to search through the advertisers here, and get some new needles and thread. If that doesn't make it reliably stitch, I'll take it to the local repair guy, and get him to set it up and have him show me some tips for different size applications. It'll have to wait until after Christmas at this point though. I'll probably start a new post with what the repair guy says.

Incidentally, once it started stiching, the foot doesn't put such deep marks in the leather. No idea why, as the thread runs between the two feet. I suppose it's just happier.

[grijs]

Hi everyone at leatherwoker.net.

I just got an adler 30-1 with problems and got it working by reading this thread. Fantastic information. Thanks to you all.

-L.

[Gemini1950]

Hi a newby

I have a Adler 30-1 recent acquasition

am haveing a challenge w/ trying to move the thread to the middle of the work btm thread does not pull into the work

on a household machine I would increase the thread tension to accomplish

I may be missing thread tensioner?? I have not found a schematic that shows all the tensioner

The only tensioner I have is on the top beside the needle shaft

Any suggestions on where to find Schematic Any thoughts on this will be appreciated

Myles

[Yzabel68]

I know this have been posted a while ago but I do have the instruction (pretty basic) and parts plans ...very detailed english and french, if it could help I could scan them and post it... mine is an adler 30 1 1967, just had it a few days ago.