Members Onsite Tack Posted March 29, 2008 Members Report Posted March 29, 2008 I am taking apart an Australian-style flat saddle to replace billet straps. I have forgotten how to remove those round metal buttons that sit up near the pommel. Any ideas are most welcome. Kathy Quote Kathy
Members gary Posted March 29, 2008 Members Report Posted March 29, 2008 I am taking apart an Australian-style flat saddle to replace billet straps. I have forgotten how to remove those round metal buttons that sit up near the pommel. Any ideas are most welcome. Kathy Kathy Those are nails/tacks. They're like 1" long blue tacks with silver heads added. You'll need to pull them out. I usually take the whole underside off (the forepiece and flaps and panels bit) by unstitching it (cutting and pulling the stitches out) - because I usually need to reflock a saddle that needs billet straps replacing and it's a good time to do a general overhaul and clean. It's easier then because the underside is exposed and the tacks can be pulled out as you're taking it apart. It's so much fun putting it all back together and seeing how many parts are left over on the workbench once you've finished! Gary Quote
Members Onsite Tack Posted March 30, 2008 Author Members Report Posted March 30, 2008 Gary, thanks for the insight. I'd been hoping to avoid that, but it seems it will be the only way to do it. This saddle is aged and has tons of built in grease-dirt on every piece of metal. I've tried to get the nails out from the top, but no luck. Sigh! Well, now I know what I need to do. Thanks. Kathy Quote Kathy
Members daviD A Morris Posted March 30, 2008 Members Report Posted March 30, 2008 If you are only replacing the billets then there is not need to take out those nails. regards dam Quote Remember to drink the coffee not the edging dye!
Members jimsaddler Posted March 30, 2008 Members Report Posted March 30, 2008 <br />I am taking apart an Australian-style flat saddle to replace billet straps. I have forgotten how to remove those round metal buttons that sit up near the pommel. Any ideas are most welcome. <br /><br />Kathy<br /><br /><br /><br />David is right there is no need to remove the "Saddle Nails" as they only hold the Skirts or Flaps in place. But is you do have to remove them use a Tack claw to unclench them as they are usually clenched over under the Tree. Then drive them out gently or carefully prise the Head out with Pincers or Tack Claw. Have a Happy Day. Jim. Quote
Contributing Member barra Posted March 31, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted March 31, 2008 Quick one. If you have to ever replace a saddle nail, take off the sharp (ish) edges of the nail with a few strokes of a fine file. Always tap the nail in by covering the head with a bit of scrap leather to protect the head. Barra Quote "If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"
Members Onsite Tack Posted April 6, 2008 Author Members Report Posted April 6, 2008 This saddle has very short attachments from the tree to the billet straps. I cannot get sufficient access to them, it seems, without taking out those nails and being able to lift up most of the saddle from the tree. Is it possible to go in underneath after removing the panels? Thanks for all the advice so far. Kathy Quote Kathy
Contributing Member barra Posted April 7, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted April 7, 2008 (edited) I have attached a pic of an English saddle tree with web strung seat. The principal of the Australian is the same. I'm not real sure now what you mean. The panel should be attached via stitching thru the flap - forepart and flap on the other side. The rear should be laced to the seat leather at the base of the cantle, The girth straps will be attached to the longer webbing cross straps (the white webbing straps). It should be relatively easy to gain access to the straps for replacement by simply cutting the stitches holding the panel up at the front. I'm not seeing why you would need to remove the saddle nails for the reasons Jim and David have mentioned. It might be easier to guide you if you attach a few pictures. Barra Edited April 7, 2008 by barra Quote "If You're not behind the Troops, please feel free to stand in front of them"
Members daviD A Morris Posted April 9, 2008 Members Report Posted April 9, 2008 Just a couple of quick notes: Only open up the front of the pannel I use my pannel stuffing iron to hold the pannel open while working on the girth points The whole operation is a bit awkward but beats the time involved in any "awkwardness saving measures" I find the near side one more awkward than the off side. Make the wholes in the Girth point first, seperately, beforer you start. big coarse stitches about 4 per inch When lacing/stitching to the webbing, if you use an awl like in these photos, do not use a regular stitching awl that is sharp on the edges. THIS IS IMPORTANT. a sharp awl will cut the fibres of the webbing, use a round awl or here i have used one which is very blunt on the edges, it has to SEPRERATE the fibres of the webbing not CUT them. The saddlers that i have worked with in england don't even use an awl they use a very large needle an just push it thru using a thimble. With older saddles, carefully check the condition of the webbing. and always tell the customer to always use a surcingle with these saddles. there are a few tricks for what to do if the webbing has deteriorated but that will have to be for another post. Hope this helps. dam Quote Remember to drink the coffee not the edging dye!
Members Onsite Tack Posted April 14, 2008 Author Members Report Posted April 14, 2008 I think I understand now - I have to take off the panels completely to get at the billets. Am I right? Thanks to everyone. Kathy I wanted to attach photos, but couldn't figure out how to make them small enough. Quote Kathy
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