sewing a Gusset with a machine

[rmr]

Im somewhat new to using a sewing machine to sew a gusset on a shotgun shell pouch. What Im referring to as a gusset is at the side of the pouch where Im sewing a one flat piece of leather ( the front, bottom and back of the pouch) to the side piece which is curved and a folded in (the gusset).

Will this best be done using a stirup plate on the machine????

Any tricks to hold the leather in this curved/folded in position while trying to accomplish this - the leather Im using is Latigo so it cant be cased to make it mold into the shape I want ( Im thinking about placing some neatsfoot oil on it to make it more supple and sewing it while its still "wet") - and I suspect glue wont hold it in this position either. So do you just hold it with brute forece and get it sewn together as fast as possible ??????

Thanks for any tips

RMR

[bruce johnson]

I use the stirrup plate. I stick the gussets in with glue and hold them in place with binder clips side by side. I let everything set up for a few hours before sewing if I can and then sew slowly. Take off the binder clips as you come to them.

[rmr]

I use the stirrup plate. I stick the gussets in with glue and hold them in place with binder clips side by side. I let everything set up for a few hours before sewing if I can and then sew slowly. Take off the binder clips as you come to them.

Thank you

RMR

[barra]

Rmr. Another method you can use to hold the gusset in place is to use a few strategically placed tacks and pull them out as you come to them or you can use a few tack ties. Place one (of either) dead centre of your base. This will assist you to stitch it in square and avoid a lop sided twist.

Barra

[rmr]

Rmr. Another method you can use to hold the gusset in place is to use a few strategically placed tacks and pull them out as you come to them or you can use a few tack ties. Place one (of either) dead centre of your base. This will assist you to stitch it in square and avoid a lop sided twist.

Barra

Barra

Thanks - sounds like great advice. Where do you get tack ties??? I have never heard of those before

RMR

[barra]

Rmr. tack ties are merely made using a normal hand stitching needle and thread. Push your awl thru both layers of leather. Push your needle and thread thru and then tie off over the edge with any ol knot like a reef/square knot (just like you would if stitching something where you are about to finish with one thread and about to start with a new fresh thread). As you come to the knot you snip the tack tie and pick it out. They are just to help hold things in place as you stitch.

Barra

[rmr]

Rmr. tack ties are merely made using a normal hand stitching needle and thread. Push your awl thru both layers of leather. Push your needle and thread thru and then tie off over the edge with any ol knot like a reef/square knot (just like you would if stitching something where you are about to finish with one thread and about to start with a new fresh thread). As you come to the knot you snip the tack tie and pick it out. They are just to help hold things in place as you stitch.

Barra

Thank you for that description. I have done that for several other reasons- just didnt have a name attached to it- Thanks

RMR

[Saddlebag]

Oiling latigo isn't a good idea. When refleecing the skirts on a saddle, I'll add half a dozen tailor's tacks around the skirt which holds everything beautifully while I machine stitch. I pull these stitches as I arrive at each one.

[barra]

On some applications, an office stapler works fine to temporarily hold items together. Pick them out as you go.

Barra

[Wizcrafts]

On some applications, an office stapler works fine to temporarily hold items together. Pick them out as you go.

Barra

Great suggestion Barra! I sometimes use one of my hand "clipper" style staplers to hold gussets in position. You can get these at Lowes, Home Hardware and office supply stores. Then, you may still be able to find a Neva Clog stapler on this forum, or on eBay. Most hand clippers will staple together about 8 ounces of chrome tanned leather, using 5/16" leg staples.

Brands capable of stapling 1/8" of leather include Neva Clog and Arrow hand held clippers.

[UKRay]

I guess the same rules apply when you stitch heavier leather? I'm planning to use 3mm thick veg tan to make a gusseted satchel - so two pieces is pretty hefty. I wouldn't think a stapler would hold the pieces together but I'm happy to use tack ties as long as the holes can vanish under the stitching.

I've had a try at stitching gussets before and found I had cut the gusset too short. It is probably a trial and error thing but it would be helpful to hear suggestions on how to get the gusset to line up with the bag front and back. Do I need to start stitching in the middle and work to each side? Should I stitch the back to the gusset first or the front? Does it matter?

Ray

[dirtclod]

Ray when i put a gusset in saddle bags i measure where the gusset will go with a dress makers tape and add a couple of inches to measurement. Then i glue the gusset to the back side and use spring clamps to hold it. When i get ready to sew i take the clamps off as i get to them. Personally i sew the back on first. I wouldn't staples or tacks. Their to easy to get out of the stich line then you have holes were you can't hide them.

To get the gusset to line up i use a sqaure and make a pencil mark on the inside from where the back was started. Then to know where to start putting in the front piece. I always start at the end and take a couple of back stiches then go forward to the other end and back stich again.

That's the way i do. But i'm sure there others ways that will work fine.

[barra]

Ray. Use location/progress marks on the front/back and gusset and ensure the marks line up as you go.

Barra

[acowboy]

another good trick if its a piece i can do is pull the thread out of the machine, and stitch the holes on the outside pieces...then glue the gussett....then with awl, make tie tacks around the gussett as suggested....

might have to re-adjust stitch length a bit,,,but, the machine will want to follow the holes, and wont leave marks or holes where you dont want them