Larry Report post Posted December 7, 2009 I just started my Tom Threepersons style holster and when I cased the leather, it turned black. Mostly spots on the grain side, but some also on the flesh side. The more it dries the more black gunk it has show up on it. I know with all your experience, you would know what this is. Also, what do I do about it? It's not the top of the line leather as I am new to leather crafting and still honing my skills. It's Tandy's veg. tanned single shoulder 6-7 ounce. Thanks everyone. Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted December 7, 2009 I just started my Tom Threepersons style holster and when I cased the leather, it turned black. Mostly spots on the grain side, but some also on the flesh side. The more it dries the more black gunk it has show up on it. I know with all your experience, you would know what this is. Also, what do I do about it? It's not the top of the line leather as I am new to leather crafting and still honing my skills. It's Tandy's veg. tanned single shoulder 6-7 ounce. Thanks everyone. Larry Do you by any chance have hard water ie: a lot of iron, in your area. If you do this could be the problem. Any contact between ferrous material and wet leather will turn the leather black due to a reaction with the tannins in the leather. Same way that vinegaroon works to color leather. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted December 7, 2009 Do you by any chance have hard water ie: a lot of iron, in your area. If you do this could be the problem. Any contact between ferrous material and wet leather will turn the leather black due to a reaction with the tannins in the leather. Same way that vinegaroon works to color leather. Just a thought. I agree with Denster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted December 7, 2009 Larry, you are correct in pegging it as mold. This is not uncommon. One thing that will help is to be sure that you use new clean plastic bags when you case your leather. Reusing the same bags over again will promote mold, because you can almost never get all the old moisture out and the mold will be already "in the bag" before you put your piece in it. Sometimes it happens even if you just wet your leather and let it sit in the open air. As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years. Bondo Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBOGO Report post Posted December 7, 2009 As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years. Bondo Bob I got mine at a good hardware store (not a box home improvement store) that has a good selection of wood finishes. It's used to bleach and clean wood when refinishing, I don't rembember the name brand off hand, but a knowledgable hardware person helped me out when I asked for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted December 8, 2009 As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years. Bondo Bob I got mine at a good hardware store (not a box home improvement store) that has a good selection of wood finishes. It's used to bleach and clean wood when refinishing, I don't rembember the name brand off hand, but a knowledgable hardware person helped me out when I asked for it. I don't know anything about this stuff. I was just curious so I found a place you can buy it. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19462&source=googleps&cookietest=1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRedding Report post Posted December 8, 2009 I don't think it's mold, mold would be on the entire project, it's not selective. Since the back side is worse than the front and from the looks of it it's been on a dirty table, possibly before you bought it, it looks like iron stains, or just plain old dirt, maybe grit from a sharpening stone, metal filings, or just plain dirty. Mold or dirt oxolic will likely clean it up. Don't know if that helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBOGO Report post Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) I don't know anything about this stuff. I was just curious so I found a place you can buy it. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19462&source=googleps&cookietest=1 Al Stohlman referenced using a solution of it to prep projects before dying in one of his coloring leather books. That is where I learned of it. Larry, What is that leather gonna hold? Judging the shape, a revolver, what kind? Edited December 8, 2009 by MBOGO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Report post Posted December 8, 2009 (edited) Thanks everyone for the great replies. I thought it might be iron oxidation (another name for rust) also and I found the cure for it. It's the brown bottle of rust remover you get at any grocery store. I have provided pictures of the results and it only take a few drop on the wet leather and the black is gone in seconds. It looks like brand new leather. I hope this will help others out there that may have the same problem. Thanks again, Larry MBOGO, as you can probably tell, it is a Tom Threeperson's design and it's for my S&W Mod. 19 and Mod. 66. Both are 6" barrels. I found a photo of what they think was one of his original holsters (who knows??) and I went to PhotoShop and under "Filters" I used the "Find Edges" command and traced the design right off the holster. It may or may not be his holster, but the design is nice I think. Edited December 8, 2009 by Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TimKleffner Report post Posted December 8, 2009 Larry Thank you for the information. I just posted a similar problem. I'll be looking for the product at the grocery. Happy tooling Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted December 9, 2009 We've got some rust remover at work that we use to get rust stains out of fabric. The main ingredient is lemon juice. Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBOGO Report post Posted December 13, 2009 Here's a Threepersons style holster I made a few years ago. I used a toeplug, and wanted more flowing lines. If I had to do it again there would be no lining. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Report post Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) MBOGO, that is one beautiful holster. A real work of art. I plan on staying with it and get plenty of practice and do some more holsters. Where did you connect the other end of the strap on the back side of the holster. If you look at my layout, the only place I have to put the snap in the back is on the belt loop. Lobo, suggested going a little in front of the belt loop. I would have to do that on my next holster. I did make a mistake and didn't do the forward cant. I didn't notice until too late. I like the strap and will plan better for it on the next holster. I'm don't know what a toeplug is, but I used a welt all the way down. Three pieces thick and the barrel still pushes out a little. Edited December 15, 2009 by Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBOGO Report post Posted December 20, 2009 That was made before I came into the knowldege that the strap is supposed to be secured with a snap, It is sewn inside. The toe plug is a flat tear drop shaped bottom, with the narrow end of the tear drop pointing at the sewn seam. Hang in there, your work is getting better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted December 22, 2009 Thanks for the information Larry. Ocassionally I will come across this problem. I have always dyed my holsters black so it wasn't a real problem, but now I know what to do when I am not going to use black. Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aulus Report post Posted January 7, 2011 Yes, thank´s for the information! I´ve had the same Problem with cheap veg tan cow sides, but the Spots where more blue than black. But I think it´s the same problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shooter McGavin Report post Posted March 23, 2011 Hmm, thanks for this thread. I just molded an IWB holster for a 1911 using my actual firearm and anywhere "bare" metal touched it left nasty black marks. Of course, this holster is slated to be dyed saddle tan. I'm going to try the lemon juice first, and, if that fails, the rust remover. Oh, why didnt I just saran wrap like normal? :brainbleach: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Grizzly Report post Posted March 23, 2011 I had it happen with some new leather I picked up on a recent sheath. Not sure why as the steel is stainless and everything else around the wet sheath was clean. Weird. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WyomingSlick Report post Posted March 23, 2011 I had it happen with some new leather I picked up on a recent sheath. Not sure why as the steel is stainless and everything else around the wet sheath was clean. Weird. Not so weird if the SS had not been passified adequately. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites