Xothique Report post Posted April 3, 2008 It's been a while since I posted here. I've been a mask maker for some years now, working in papier-mache, and only branching into leather last year. And now that I am becoming more confident with my leatherwork, I want to experiment with some different techniques. I would like to carve the leather as well as wet-form it, to produce things like dragon scales and other exotic designs. I've tried stamping some designs into the work before shaping it, but found that the wet-forming process pretty much obliterated the stamped design. I don't expect the design to remain on areas where I have to hammer the leather into shape, but perhaps I wasn't stamping the leather hard enough in the other areas? I've carved some basic feather shapes into my latest bird mask design with a 'v' gouger - I figured that if the feathers were carved in rather than stamped, they would remain on the finished mask. The process is very much trial and error at the moment, so if anyone has any tips, or ideas of how I can improve my technique - apart from practise more - I'll be very pleased to hear them. Thanks everyone! Helen. Here is an 'in-progress' photo... Now I have to decide what colours to use on him. Raven black or Kingfisher blue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Helen, good to see you back here. Real nice looking mask as always. I myself think the Kingfisher Blue. As to the detail you want to put on your mask, I'm thinking for Dragon scales or feathers, just use your swivel knife after you've formed it as you have here on this mask. You can get some real good detail using diferent blades in your knife. Good luck. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Helen, I think that shaping masks will be alot like doing the extreme embossed carving I like to do. When you do the shaping, you stretch the leather and do other things that will "rub out" your carved or stamped details. But once the shaping is finished, you should be able to dampen the leather again, put it over your face form, and work the details back in carefully. On embossed carvings, I will usually bevel and pear shade before shaping, then go back over these areas with the same tools once the shaping is finished. While the details have been rubbed out by the shaping, you can usually see where it was, and generally it is pretty easy to get them back in. You will need to experiment with this, but I think you should be able to get pretty good carved or stamed results on your masks by doing this. In areas like the long nose on your mask, you might need to put something inside there to hold it solid if you wanted to carve or stamp on that part. You can also cut details like feathering on your masks with a scalpel and hair blades like Ken mentioned and get fairly realistic looking feathers. Hope this gives you some ideas to try. Clay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted April 3, 2008 This a really beautiful mask but it doesn't strike me as a raven so I suggest kingfisher blue. I'm thrilled to see the finished result! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomBanwell Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Very nice work! Good to see another mask maker/wet former here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xothique Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Helen, good to see you back here. Real nice looking mask as always. I myself think the Kingfisher Blue. As to the detail you want to put on your mask, I'm thinking for Dragon scales or feathers, just use your swivel knife after you've formed it as you have here on this mask. You can get some real good detail using diferent blades in your knife. Good luck. Ken Thanks Ken! It's good to be here, the community is very helpful and friendly, and I will try to make more time to post in future. I will admit to being still a little bit scared of the swivel knife. It's a fantastic tool and I'm still learning to control it - no doubt it will all come with practise. I have invested in a filigree blade today, and am looking forward to having a play around with that once it arrives. I went with blue, as I figured that I could always dye it black if the blue didn't work out. Iwill post more photos when it's finally complete. Helen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xothique Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Helen,I think that shaping masks will be alot like doing the extreme embossed carving I like to do. When you do the shaping, you stretch the leather and do other things that will "rub out" your carved or stamped details. But once the shaping is finished, you should be able to dampen the leather again, put it over your face form, and work the details back in carefully. On embossed carvings, I will usually bevel and pear shade before shaping, then go back over these areas with the same tools once the shaping is finished. While the details have been rubbed out by the shaping, you can usually see where it was, and generally it is pretty easy to get them back in. You will need to experiment with this, but I think you should be able to get pretty good carved or stamed results on your masks by doing this. In areas like the long nose on your mask, you might need to put something inside there to hold it solid if you wanted to carve or stamp on that part. You can also cut details like feathering on your masks with a scalpel and hair blades like Ken mentioned and get fairly realistic looking feathers. Hope this gives you some ideas to try. Clay Hi Clay Brilliant - thank you. I've been a bit wary of re-working the leather in case I somehow over-worked it and ended up with a mess, but the way you describe this process makes it seem fairly straightforward, as long as I'm careful. I'm definitely going to give it a go on my next project. Helen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xothique Report post Posted April 3, 2008 This a really beautiful mask but it doesn't strike me as a raven so I suggest kingfisher blue. I'm thrilled to see the finished result! Tom Thanks Tom - I thought the same after looking at it afresh - a Raven should really have a much heavier beak, which has given me an idea which I will work on for the future. So I went for the blue, and will post photos when he's completed.:D Helen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xothique Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Very nice work! Good to see another mask maker/wet former here. Hi Tom, Thank you and well met! You have some fascinating and lovely work on your website. I particularly like the idea of ambigrams.:D Helen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sodapop Report post Posted April 3, 2008 i think the masks are cool as hell and i love the originality of them...but they freak me out hehe definately cool tho!! darryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Xothique Report post Posted April 4, 2008 i think the masks are cool as hell and i love the originality of them...but they freak me out hehedefinately cool tho!! darryl I know what you mean! I think part of my fascination with masks has always been the slightly creepy aspect of them. Thank you! Helen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pip Report post Posted June 3, 2008 Thats really beautiful work, I love your masks, there is something clearly cutely sinister about them. just like all good masks you have inspired me again!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider Report post Posted June 6, 2008 This is an AWESOME mask. I love it!!! Please let me know when it's done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites