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I'm still tweaking this pattern, but I think it's getting very close. This is the first time I've made a black holster. Never really thought I'd like black, but I sure do now. Next time, I'll be sure to wear gloves...

Herman Oak 8/9oz, Fiebing's Professional Black, Acrylic Resolene airbrushed finish, wrapped around a Dan Wesson Commander Bobtail 1911.

Please let me know if you see any room for improvement. Headed out to my garage to build another one!! :)

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Near as I can see the basic design and execution is flawless. I noted the dye rub off at the top of the triggerguard and below the slide. Might want to touch it up. I hate dying holsters particularly black. I used to use Vinegaroon then went to HO drum dyed and haven't looked back.

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Thanks Denster! Once I get my workbench built in my garage (with storage space for hides below), I'll have to look at the drum dyed hides. Do they bone/tool as easily as a plain veg tan hide? Sounds like a good approach! I have the holster sitting in front of me - dye looks fine. I think what you're seeing is light reflections. The blue tint is sky light leaking in through my blinds, and the purplish light is from the compact fluorescent bulbs in my fan and desk lamps.

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Holy cow that is nice!!!!! How in the world do you get that kind of defenition in 8/9oz leather? What do you use for boning tools? Do you use a press? I hope you don't mind all the questions but wow that is very nice. Very well done.

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Thanks Denster! Once I get my workbench built in my garage (with storage space for hides below), I'll have to look at the drum dyed hides. Do they bone/tool as easily as a plain veg tan hide? Sounds like a good approach! I have the holster sitting in front of me - dye looks fine. I think what you're seeing is light reflections. The blue tint is sky light leaking in through my blinds, and the purplish light is from the compact fluorescent bulbs in my fan and desk lamps.

Whoops! Sorry my bad those are all shaded areas. If those areas look like the rest of the holster then you hammered it. As to the drum dyed HO the only differences I've noted is that it is slightly harder to cut, I strop my head knife slightly more often and it takes a little longer for moisture absorbtion when I wet form it. I use a lot of 7/8 and with natural I give it a 2 second dip prior to forming with the black I give it 5 seconds. Bones and holds detail as well as natural HO and no rub off the color is struck through. Good stuff I like it a lot. I normally have a lot of 6/7 aand 7/8 on hand if you'd like to try before you buy let me know and I'll send you a piece.

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Wow. You're really moving along quickly! Did this cut of 8-9oz HO harden up for you this time around?

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Holy cow that is nice!!!!! How in the world do you get that kind of defenition in 8/9oz leather? What do you use for boning tools? Do you use a press? I hope you don't mind all the questions but wow that is very nice. Very well done.

Thanks! Don't have a press, but every time I start shaping a holster I sure wish I did!! I just start with the knuckles, then progress to a few wooden tools that I got years ago in a pottery/sculpture class I took in junior college. There is a bunch of tools available at the local Hobby store in the clay modeling section. You don't need anything fancy and/or pretty - just something smooth and durable. And I use the basic bone folder tool too.

Wow. You're really moving along quickly! Did this cut of 8-9oz HO harden up for you this time around?

Thanks! Yes, it firmed up significantly!! I put the previous one back in the oven after a good soak to penetrate the finish, and it firmed up too.

Great work! Very nice 45 too.

Thanks! My wife knew I was drooling for one, and she surprised me with it for Christmas a year ago with her bonus.

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That is a good looking holster. I like the CBOB as well. That is amazing detail and boning for not using a press. Nice job.

Carl

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I LOVE it! Awesome job! Im jelous!!!

badasp118

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Great lookin' holster! The stitching looks well executed and the overall appearance is very attractive. How well does the sweatguard hold up? I've always doubled up on the back side because I'm afraid one layer of leather will start to deform and curl over time.

I think what really grabs my attention is the well designed tunneled loop on the back. Now, how exactly do you do that?

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Thanks LeatherCaptain! I'm actually in the middle of stitching one up right now that has a reinforced sweat shield. I'm not sure it's really necessary for OWB carry, but thought I'd give it a try. At some point I'd like to start lining my holsters, which is why this particular holster wasn't reinforced - the pattern would eventually be lined, effectively helping to reinforce the sweat shield.

Regarding the belt loop, I simply designed the holster with a heavy sheet of paper, cut the pattern out, then folded it around my pistol. Then start sketching out the reinforcement piece and carry it along to the back of the holster and draw in the belt loop tunnel. Make sure the tunnel aligns with your belt slot. Once you've gotten your pattern pretty well defined, build it out of scrap leather.

I've actually built this particular pattern 3 times now. The first time (Saddle Tan in a previous post of mine) exposed a few design flaws with my lines - stitches were exposed to excessive wear at the trigger guard area, the sweat guard was too high and wrapped around the front too far, and I didn't like the stitch line around the bottom of the slide (tried to mimic one of my favorite makers, but the stitch lines work better for his overall design than they did with mine). I revised my pattern to go around the trigger guard, shortened the sweat guard and shortened the area around the end of the barrel, then built this black one. Now I'm on my third (still under construction), where I've tweaked the stitch line around the bottom of the slide, added a reinforced sweat shield, and dyed it before assembly to keep the thread natural.

My next holster will likely be tweaked again - I'll likely play around with the reinforcement piece a bit, but haven't really decided how yet.

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That's your best one yet.

It's nice when you can work on the same holster/gun combination over and over. You really get a chance to tweak the design, and you get a good feel for how to bone the holster better. After you get the design where you want aesthetically, be sure to put them to some real world use. Try carrying for long periods of time and making some road trips, and try doing a lot of defensive draws, both moving and stationary. That will help you recognize whether the design needs further refinement, and it will help you see how well the design and the construction method holds up to abuse.

Keep up the good work.

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Thanks Boomstick! My Boss should arrive today so I can finally start machine stitching! Wohoo! You're right - wearing them is extremely important. I admit, I am guilty of falling back on my daily-carry, which is a Kahr P9. It's just so small and light. Plus, my holster for the Kahr is IWB. I don't really have the proper cover garments to wear my 1911 OWB. The times I've worn this design around the house though, it was very comfortable (aside from the time I sat down and snagged the bottom of the holster on an arm rest and the beavertail rearranged my ribs... And you're right - it's been very educational to stick with one platform to learn with. It's allowed me time to focus on boning without the worry of learning the shape of a new gun. Thanks for the compliments - it's been a fun experience! I still need to see if there is a way to pull the gun in tighter to my body - but I think a lot of my problem is I simply don't like tightening my belt very tight. The curse of a desk job.

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Incredible job! Man, I'm lovin' that!

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