Holster Finishes

[TwinOaks]

Vinegaroon if making something black, and it "self-finishes". On everything else, I use Aussie conditioner followed up with Neat-lac rubbed in or Leather Balm w/ atom wax. I do like the Resolene on the interiors, as it seals very well and provides a good slick feel.

[SouthernHolsters]

.... On everything else, I use Aussie conditioner....

http://www.aussie.co...ume-conditioner

Does it really add volume? I could save money on leather! LOL

For me, exterior: 1 light coat of Neetsfoot oil, 3 coats of 50/50 Resolene/water airbrushed, 1 coat of neutral Angelus shoe wax polish.

Interior: 3 coats of 50/50 Resolene/water airbrushed.

[Ross]

i've had good luck with polyurethane. too much looks like plastic, but just a little looks pretty good.

[Kate]

Well, I just never have liked lacquer or other varnish-type finishes on leather. The acrylic version is only marginally better for leather that must withstand hard wear, often in all weathers.

I treat my finished gunleather with my own concoction, beeswax melted together with equal amounts of pure neatsfoot oil. It solidifies. into a paste, which can be rubbed into the finished piece, then warmed with a hair dryer to "melt it in" to the grain. Then a serious buffing with soft clean cloth will bring up the sheen. It gets better with age, and is easily fixed if scuffed or scratched, unlike painted on clear coatings. Done right, it's virtually waterproof too, and will NOT attack a fine blued finish.

Guess maybe I'm still too old fashioned, but I like the results. The pic is of my personal carry holster - got to be 12 years old now, still looks pretty good.

[LeatherCaptain]

Well, I just never have liked lacquer or other varnish-type finishes on leather. The acrylic version is only marginally better for leather that must withstand hard wear, often in all weathers.

I treat my finished gunleather with my own concoction, beeswax melted together with equal amounts of pure neatsfoot oil. It solidifies. into a paste, which can be rubbed into the finished piece, then warmed with a hair dryer to "melt it in" to the grain. Then a serious buffing with soft clean cloth will bring up the sheen. It gets better with age, and is easily fixed if scuffed or scratched, unlike painted on clear coatings. Done right, it's virtually waterproof too, and will NOT attack a fine blued finish.

Guess maybe I'm still too old fashioned, but I like the results. The pic is of my personal carry holster - got to be 12 years old now, still looks pretty good.

Very nice, Kate! I think I'm going to try this with the inside of my holsters. I think this will definetely give them the waxier feel I've been looking for. I just couldn't figure out how to get the wax down into the holster without seriously making a mess or distorting the leather. This process sort of reminds me of that Sno Seal product where you warm up your leather item and then apply a small amount of product onto the leather and let it melt in.

[JeffGC]

How and, more importantly, when in your assembly cycle to you finish the inside of your holsters?

[BigRiverLeather]

How and, more importantly, when in your assembly cycle to you finish the inside of your holsters?

I was hoping someone would answer this question. I have to believe that, especially if using an acrylic type fininsh inside, it has to be done after wet forming or the water would not penetrate like it should.

Airbrushing the inside? I could see where maybe the beeswax/ neatsfoot paste could be rubbed in before hand.

I've not used resolene in my airbrush yet. When I do use it on the inside of my holsters, I use a small sponge and run it down in. I recently bought a bunch of the foam paint brushes and I'm going to try that.

[woolfe]

I finish mine after wet molding I let them dry over night, wax my edges then apply my finish. I dunk them in a 50/50 resolene/water mix count to 10 pull them out. Then lightly blow off the excess with an air compressor. Then they sit for 3 full days before I assemble them. I get great results and its quick and easy. The only down side is waiting 3 days for it to fully cure.

[LeatherCaptain]

Good afternoon! So, I embarked on the wax/oil adventure and I think I've been outsmarted. I took some of the beeswax/paraffin mixture I use for edges and mixed it with some neatsfoot oil over a double boiler. Got everything cooled down and started to work on applying. And, now that I'm reading this thread again, I think I missed the crucial part - HEAT. I don't know why I stopped working on it but I just couldn't get the waxy white residue to disappear as I was rubbing it in and I think I just got frustrated.

I did buy some SnoSeal a couple of weeks ago for my boots and it didn't dawn on me until today when I was applying it that I needed to add heat. I know Kate mentioned it in her post but I guess my limited brain capacity was already full or, as my wife would say, I just wasn't listening.

So, back to the workbench to see if heating it up will do the trick. I think I might need to stick with straight beeswax and oil mixture leaving out the paraffin. I think it's the paraffin that's leaving the white residue. I wonder how hot it needs to get to melt properly without deforming the holster at all. Maybe I'll try a hairdryer and then maybe i'll try using a propane torch for quick and dirty applications

...oh yeah, I do all my finishing after the holster is formed...even the edge work. I tried doing the edges before forming and found it to be a waste of time for me. I always had to go back and redo them at the end.

Edited March 26, 2010 by LeatherCaptain

[MADMAX22]

I really like sno-seal as a sealer on my projects. I dont know about using parafin and bees wax on anything other then the edges.

With the sno-seal I usually apply one thin coat and let that dry over night and then buff it out, then Ill do another coat if the leather absorbed that pretty well. A hair dryer does a good job of helping it get worked into the leather. Only thing with sno-seal is you need to reapply everyonce in a while depending on how hard you use the project.