how to protect leather from water

[DENEKEN]

Hello,

I make armors and I would know what product used on leather to protect it from water. Because some customers use their armor on outside.

I currently use eco-flow dyes and Tandy Satin Shene (this last only on the external side).

Is that enough to protect leather ?

What can I do ?

Thanks in advance.

[ferret]

Beeswax and lots of rubbing works well, but try it on a sample piece first, not sure what effect the friction will have on super sheen.

[Johanna]

Leather Balm with Atom Wax is not technically a "waterproofer", but it does a nice job on armor and other things that will occasionally get wet as a "water resister". Last year I discovered my car had a leak in the trunk driving through torrential rain in Florida's Panhandle. Not a big deal, but Dave Theobald's entry for the IFoLG was in the trunk. It was soaked, but undamaged, and took a Blue Ribbon in the Advanced Division, even after the flooding. Apply leather balm, then rub in, then buff. Buff until your arms get tired, then buff some more. It looks good, and works great. We used the black balm quite a bit on biker items, and never had a problem.

Johanna

[ETW Grumpy]

I like Pecard's.

[esantoro]

Aussie wax works well. That LCI company seems to have a waterproofer. Also there's a product sno-seal something or other. This is the best waterproofer I know of, though I don't if it has certain petroleum products that may not be good in the long run for the leather and thread. It has a sort of petroleum smell to it.

ed

[Studio-N]

I'm going to second esantoro's recommendation. I use Aussie Conditioner with Beeswax on a lot of items.

I did a class where I had separate pieces of leather with Super Sheen (Acrylic), Neat Lac, Tan Kote (resin finish) and

Aussie Conditioner with the beeswax. I poured water on all and let it sit. After 10 minutes the water had just started to

penetrate the waxed piece. the Super Sheen and NeatLac had a big spot, but showed it holds up fairly well. The tan kote

was the worst of the bunch. It didn't have a spot - the whole piece had soked in.

Realizing that the Aussie would have to be reapplied occasionally, I still prefer it. Besides, it is a conditioner after all and

should be periodically added anyway. 'Nuf said. peace.

[indypbear]

Check out a new product by Bee Natural Leathercare. www.beenaturalleathercare.com

We just got the information in the mail today and we like their other products like RTC, PRO-CARV, Leather Finish and #1 Saddle Oil with Natural Fungicides. They're a little more expensive but "penny wise and pound foolish". I like to get the best available as it pays in the long haul.

Indy

Edited April 8, 2008 by indypbear

[DENEKEN]

Thanks for all advices.

I see that the best is a product based on beeswax. I don't know the product I'll try.

But I'll report here the result of my experimentation.

[DENEKEN]

I have tried beeswax.

I have choose one I found in a local store. And I must said that it's very useful. After application and polishing, the water isn't drink by leather.

I also tried to put beeswax on super shene. Beeswax is less easily absorbed by the leather so leather is more shiny.

Beeswax is very effective and don't change color.

According to the carved surface, I think that I will use beeswax with or without super shene.

And one last thing : beeswax does not degrade leather which is formatted

[JustWakinUp]

I have tried beeswax.

I have choose one I found in a local store. And I must said that it's very useful. After application and polishing, the water isn't drink by leather.

I also tried to put beeswax on super shene. Beeswax is less easily absorbed by the leather so leather is more shiny.

Beeswax is very effective and don't change color.

According to the carved surface, I think that I will use beeswax with or without super shene.

And one last thing : beeswax does not degrade leather which is formatted

I'm with grumpy on this one