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Particle old son. That last one is as good as it gets on the backside. You deserve a few calouses on your hand from patting yourself on the back. Way to go.

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I recently picked up a Boss and thought I was doing pretty well...time to go back to school I guess. I do not have a photo to share but I will try to come up with something soon. My hat is off to you both for getting the back stitching that clean.

Carl

Carl Collins

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Posted

Particle old son. That last one is as good as it gets on the backside. You deserve a few calouses on your hand from patting yourself on the back. Way to go.

Thank you sir - I appreciate the compliment. FYI - I finally got around to posting the final pics in this thread.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22189&view=findpost&p=142221

  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

Yes - both the primary and secondary have a full loop around them. I pulled the manual out last night and read it to make sure - the graphic doesn't look like they indicate a full loop on the secondary tensioner (not when compared to the graphic for the primary tensioner). But, I read the text instructions, and it actually says to go completely around the secondary tensioner.

I'm slightly puzzled by the recommendation that the thread on a Tippmann Boss should loop around both tensioners. I've checked the manual, and it definitely says that it should pass through the back side of the secondary tensioner, and once clockwise around the primary tensioner (pic attached). This is shown both on the illustration, and stated in the text.

Has the manual changed? Is there a benefit in passing the thread around both tensioners? I have occasionally noticed that the thread can slip out from between the secondary tensioner discs . . . perhaps looping around the tensioner would stop this happening? Any thoughts . . ?

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Posted

It depends on what time frame your manual is from. I have three and two show looping around both tensioners and one shows just comming in the backside of the first tensioner as you displayed. That method is sometimes useful when using really heavy unlubed thread but has the drawback of the thread popping out as you mentioned.

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When I got my Boss I was confused by the conflicting info. I called Tippmann...wrap around both tensioners.

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Thank you, gentlemen! I bought my Tippmann five years ago, direct from the factory, so I guess the manual may have changed since then. I'd never thought about looping around both tensioners, but I'm certainly going to give it a try!

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  • 11 months later...
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Posted

What size needle are you using and is it round or chisel? thanks Dave

Just a couple of tips. When closing an envelope style holster it really helps to have a left presser foot and I start my stitchline at the bottom outside edge go all the way around the perimeter and profile of the gun back to the beginning and oversew three or four stitches. There will still be a couple of marks but they will come out easily generally during the molding stage. Nothing like what you have with the standard presser foot.

On going around corners. With rounded corners after awhile you get the feel for the timing and can nudge it around during stitching. On sharp turns at the last stitch before the turn run the needle all the way to the bottom then raise about 1/2" squeeze your presser foot lever just enough to release the leather and turn so you're headed in the right direction release the presser foot and raise the lever all they way up.

With the Boss it is important never to short stroke it. All the way down all the way up. This is impeded if youn have a death grip on the handle. Just gently hold it in the ball of your hand.

I use 346 top and 277 bottom as I like a plump stitch and I stitch at 5spi.

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Posted

Tippmann has a needle and thread guide on their site. Whatever thread you choose, their chart will tell you the needle size to buy. For what it's worth, I buy 277 thread, use it in the top and bottom, and without a doubt, use the chisel needles. If you buy the Boss, be sure to also immediately buy a pack of chisel needles. For whatever reason, the needles that are included with the boss do not have an angled chisel on them - they are chiseled, but it slices parallel to the stitch line instead of angled - at least not the ones I received nor do the needles of another forum member that just received his new Boss.

  • 2 months later...
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Posted

Particle where do you buy your needles (chisel point) if not from tippman? and if you ever have time can you write out you set up on your boss. Mine sews ok/good sometimes than I get a rats nest on the bottom or break my thread b/c something is hanging up. Didn't know if you had some good hints.

Tippmann has a needle and thread guide on their site. Whatever thread you choose, their chart will tell you the needle size to buy. For what it's worth, I buy 277 thread, use it in the top and bottom, and without a doubt, use the chisel needles. If you buy the Boss, be sure to also immediately buy a pack of chisel needles. For whatever reason, the needles that are included with the boss do not have an angled chisel on them - they are chiseled, but it slices parallel to the stitch line instead of angled - at least not the ones I received nor do the needles of another forum member that just received his new Boss.

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