Cannot Get Rid Of Tool Marks

[wvcraftsman]

I am having a really tough time getting rid of the tool marks when I'm using a backgrounder or bevelling tool. In my mind I'm "walking" the tools, but I really may not be at all. Would someone please explain how to "walk" the tools and not leave the obvious marks. I've read multiple books on "how-to" do it, but I just don't seem to have the hang of it yet.

[JLSleather]

WVC....

It's easier to tell if we have a photo, but pro'lly the #1 reason for marks in the background is leather still too wet.

[wvcraftsman]

WVC....

It's easier to tell if we have a photo, but pro'lly the #1 reason for marks in the background is leather still too wet.

I haven't taken any pics of it, I should just for purposes like this. I'll try it when it's dryer. I was wetting it more. Thanks for the help.

[bex DK]

I'm not THAT experienced yet, but I am definitely finding that now that I am letting my leather dry out a LOT more than I thought it needed to there are a LOT less tool marks! I recommend trying the leave-it-under-glass-overnight method of casing. It has made a big difference for me.

You want to overlap about 2/3s on the beveler. Even when it is drier, I get nicer results with my larger beveler. My tiny undercut one still leaves marks, but they are easily smoothed with the modeling spoon.

If I am getting small marks, usually putting the tool centered over the mark then a light tap from the hammer will even it out. But tha tisn't as often when I let it dry more and I'm starting to get the burnishing effect I'd been longing for. My husband even commented on the improvements in my current project.

[King's X]

See if you can go into Paul BUrnett's free lessons. he has one on Beveling that should help you answer your question. If not, post a picture. That would help us help you.

[wvcraftsman]

Thanks everyone. I followed the suggestions and let the leather dry more. It helped a LOT. Thanks again.

Now its just practice, practice, practice.

[wvcraftsman]

Here are a couple of pics showing the issue I'm having with the backgrounder. Your help is appreciated.

[ClayB]

To help make the background smoother, you might try a checkered figure carving matting tool. It's difficult to get real even background over a large area with a small tool. It's not impossible to get even background with a small tool but it'll take some practice. Your leather is going to have to be fairly dry and you might have to go over it several times. With practice, you'll learn to hit the tool with even pressure and that will also help make it smoother.

On beveling figures like your horse, you might want to not bevel so deep. If you look where the mane meets the neck, you've matted the neck down pretty far. If you'd have beveled a lot lighter, it wouldn't make the mane stand out so much. A lot of beveling on figures can be done with just a modeling tool. Same with the muscles on the face. The modeling tool can give you contour without sharp lines. Or bevel lightly and then use the modeling tool to smooth out and blend in the lines. You've got the basics down, now you just need to work on the "finesse".

[wvcraftsman]

To help make the background smoother, you might try a checkered figure carving matting tool. It's difficult to get real even background over a large area with a small tool. It's not impossible to get even background with a small tool but it'll take some practice. Your leather is going to have to be fairly dry and you might have to go over it several times. With practice, you'll learn to hit the tool with even pressure and that will also help make it smoother.

On beveling figures like your horse, you might want to not bevel so deep. If you look where the mane meets the neck, you've matted the neck down pretty far. If you'd have beveled a lot lighter, it wouldn't make the mane stand out so much. A lot of beveling on figures can be done with just a modeling tool. Same with the muscles on the face. The modeling tool can give you contour without sharp lines. Or bevel lightly and then use the modeling tool to smooth out and blend in the lines. You've got the basics down, now you just need to work on the "finesse".

Thanks Clay. I appreciate the advice. There were a lot of things I would have done different after I finished it and "looking back" at it.

I'll look for the matting tool too.

[King's X]

When backgrounding with that tool, you have to rotate it as you are hitting it. Plus, you need to keep constant pressure so your color is as even as possible. I would strongly agree with ClayB....Practice.

[wvcraftsman]

When backgrounding with that tool, you have to rotate it as you are hitting it. Plus, you need to keep constant pressure so your color is as even as possible. I would strongly agree with ClayB....Practice.

Thanks King. Sometimes it looks better than others. I definitely need to practice! The good thing is I really like it, so more practice equals more fun. :-)