Comments Please

[rccolt45]

I have been making IWB holsters for Commanders for awhile now. Each one is better then the last. Here is the last one and it is the best so far - but I know with your help it can be better.

Please review these pics and tear it up, tell me what I did wrong and how to fix it.

[woolfe]

Hello,

The only concern i have is it looks like the trim line touches the mag release. I'm not sure if its the angle of the photo or not.

Couple more things but they are just what I prefer you may not. I like to have a little more leather curl over the end of the barrel and the sweat/shirt guard extend higher.

Looks good keep it up!

Edited March 11, 2010 by woolfe

[Denster]

Pretty good overall. I echo what woolfe said. I also get the sense that you may have had the leather to wet when you were forming it. I note your edges could use a little work. Other than that good to go.

[rccolt45]

Ok guys thanksfor the comments but of course I have questions:

1. When you say the edges need work - do you mean burnishing work so they are smoother?

2. When you say moulding when too wet, do you think I should be waiting longer for it to dry after I wet it?

thanks again and keep-em comming.

[Denster]

Ok guys thanksfor the comments but of course I have questions:

1. When you say the edges need work - do you mean burnishing work so they are smoother?

2. When you say moulding when too wet, do you think I should be waiting longer for it to dry after I wet it?

thanks again and keep-em comming.

Some areas of the edges appeared to have dips and hills work for an even flow. Maybe not wet it so much. I find with 5/6 OZ just a quick in and out of the water with 7/8 I give it a 3 count. Wait a ouple of minutes for the surface moisture to be absorbed and you are ready to go. When you are done forming and boning a brisk buffing with a piece of sheepskin puts a really nice sheen on the leather.

[Dwight]

I make mine somewhat different, . . .

1) The placement of the front loop on the "front" of the holster instead of the leading edge, will allow the butt of the weapon to swing away from the wearer's body. This could make for a faster draw, . . . but it also will print badly under a lighter garment.

2) I would lose the nut on the backside of the rear of the holster. Place the male piece of your snap between the two pieces of leather before you glue and sew, . . . they you can sew around it and add the strap later, . . . or as I do, . . . put the strap on with the snap before glueing and sewing. It gives the back a more professional appearance.

Just my $.02

May God bless,

Dwight

[dickf]

My take is different than what's already been said.

I think before you address your molding, you need to first adjust your stitch line to come closer to the outline of the gun, particularly around the trigger guard and following the dust cover.

I know why you put your forward loop where you did, and I think it has the opposite effect Dwight perceives; I think it actually brings the butt in closer.

The leather does look like it was too wet when you started molding it - all of the tiny wrinkles are tell-tale signs of that. When you do go to mold it, think about the lines of that awesome 1911. The line that follows the slide to frame is a deep trench in the holster. Does it look like that on the gun? No way, that line should be thin and perfectly straight (use a wooden or plastic ruler and the head of a very small crochet needle).

I do agree with Dwight that you could lose the tee nut and set the snap permanently. It would function as intended and would look nicer.

I also think you need to make a decision on the sweat shield. You're kind of in between on it, and it's edge falls on a critical part of the weapon - the thumb safety. You need to either extend it all of the way up to the rear of the slide and mold it c&l'ed, or bring it down further so it doesn't interfere with it at all. The same edge also, as was already pointed out, falls awfully close to the mag release, if not on it. You may consider bringing the curve under it.

On the front, and this may be nitpicky, you may raise the leather in front of the trigger guard. I know some guys like to use short triggers, and because I can see yours leads me to believe it may be a tad low. Again, that may just be nitpicky of me, but I'd change it.

[BigRiverLeather]

The Previous suggestions are all good. As far as cleaning up your edges, after you have everything glued, sand your edges smooth witha drum sander, then bevel your edges, then sand by hand until everything is smooth and even. Start with about a 100 grit, then I got to 220 and 340. They will be very uinform and even. Then I mounted a wooden sewing bbin onto a bolt and put it in my drill press to burnish the edges. You can use gum trag or even water, but I use saddle soap, it reall slicks things up. Don't apply a lot of pressure, just glide it over the spindle. Even a dowel with grooves works, but I like the larger diameter of the bobbin to keep it even.

[rccolt45]

Great advice guys I will use it all in my next build.

I do have one questions - I have read on here that know when the holster is dry enough to start moulding by when its cool to the touch and the leather has returned almost to its natural color. Here is my problem, I dye my holsters then build then mold. As a result I can't use color as an indication of when to mold. So what do I do? Obviously I am molding to soon - any advice???

Edited March 16, 2010 by rccolt45

[rccolt45]

Sorry one more for you guys - how do you get your stich lines close but not too close? Its always a guess for me. I saw a prior post on here that talks about using a L ruler but can't make heads or tales out of it? Any advice?

[Denster]

Sorry one more for you guys - how do you get your stich lines close but not too close? Its always a guess for me. I saw a prior post on here that talks about using a L ruler but can't make heads or tales out of it? Any advice?

That was my post. I guess it was clear as mud. I use my square to make an L shape on a piece of posterboard and put the muzzle of the gun on the lower leg and draw a line following the profile of the gun going somewhat wide of the gun below the triggerguard. Then I cut along that line. Follow the other directions given and lay the posterboard on your holster lining up with the register marks and scribe along the outline.

[dickf]

Great advice guys I will use it all in my next build.

I do have one questions - I have read on here that know when the holster is dry enough to start moulding by when its cool to the touch and the leather has returned almost to its natural color. Here is my problem, I dye my holsters then build then mold. As a result I can't use color as an indication of when to mold. So what do I do? Obviously I am molding to soon - any advice???

I dye mine prior to stitching and molding, as well. The better the leather, the less water it will take; that has been my experience. Get it wet, but don't go folding it back and forth - that is what creates the little hairline wrinkles. Let it sit for about 5-10 minutes if you think it may be too wet, then come back and start molding.

If you have a pattern for that holster (which you should), it should be easy to alter it a little to bring the stitch line in closer where necesary.