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Posted

Also, our toolwork is driven pretty deep; I use a heavier maul. So, that makes just dying the untouched surface area much easier; Christine (my wife) just uses sponges and cotton cloth cuts (ratty t-shirts). As long as the applicator won't get in the grooves (unlike like those fluffy wool applicators), and as long as the toolwork is deep and even, it shouldn't take too long to consistently just stain/paint the surface and leave the toolwork.

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Posted

Thanks. Sounds like it take a little practice to get it right.

I'll have to give it a try on some scrap first.

ArtS

Art, I have been able to get this effect very easily without any resist, by doing the following:

- dye the entire piece with a light-colored wash. (Light tan, or yellow)

- take a small wood block, cover it smoothly with some paint rags, pour some darker-colored dye over one edge of the covered block (don't want to saturate it)

- wipe the edge of the covered block over the piece.

The dye will only touch the raised portions of the leather, and leave the depressions untouched by the darker color.

Kate

Art Schwab

"You cannot teach a man anything. You can only help him discover it within himself." – Galileo Galilei

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Posted

Those are very , very nice. LOve the look , color and the stamping !!

I've used a fair share of the eco-flo dyes . I've learned this makes a huge diff in using a finish. Buff the piece well before you add your super sheen or satin, then add it. Buff well again with a piece of wool. Add another coat of finish and buff well again then a third coat of finish and buff one last time. The key is not so much the 3 coats of finish put you must buff well between coats.

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