Topcat Report post Posted April 15, 2010 I make high end lined holsters and sheaths.....all are lined with veg tanned Kangaroo skin. The gun or knife release can't be matched with any other lining. Here is the method I use and so far it is flawless in the finished product. Take your pattern and cut out your holster form using 7-8oz veg tanned leather with tabs to hold form in perfect position while forming. I use Herman Oak....whatever. Now cut out the Kangaro lining ......about 1/2'' bigger than the holster blank. Glue the lining in the blank.....I use Barge.....whatever. Trim the lining to the blank using a very sharp razor knife.....I use 60* Swiss blades....available on Ebay. On the blank I leave a tab on both sides of a fold over form and on both sides of a pancake form. These will be removed later. I use blue or red gun forms, but the actual gun or knife can be used if encased in shrink wrap. Sew the tabs together so the form fits perfectly. Wet the leather and lining to the point where it is very pliable and insert into a vacuum cloths storage bage....available at Walmart. Fit the bag valve with 1/4" nylon water line using poly tape.....whatever. Put standard silk release film top and bottom (available under vacuum bagging supplies, Google) zip closed and turn on vacuum pump. I use a simple vacuum pump used to bleed brakes there are any number of small vacuum pumps and configurations with valves, manifolds, etc on Ebay. I let the pump run about 10 minutes and will do some light boning on certain areas of the holster. I also check the pull down carefully and if it is not exactly what I want.....break the vacuum and reset.....no harm. Break the vacuum and remove the holster. I remove the gun or form used and allow to dry. When mostly dry.....I cut the threads on the tabs and open joined tab areas to finish drying. Then remove tabs. The resulting holster will be a perfect fit....every time. Just to mention.....snaps, some types of belt loops, etc. must be installed prior to gluing lining. Also I sew the lining edges prior to vacuum forming. I glue all my work prior to finish sewing and sealing. This area of the finished product is subject to much debate. I find that because my work is repetitive I find the best method for each item and it varies depending what I am making. The finished product is the ultimate grade card on your work. If I can be of any additional help you can email me at tcantwell@lakecentermarina.com. Thanks for reading and I hope this helps.....vacuum forming is the answer for perfect custom work. Topcat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted April 17, 2010 Topcat. I agree vacuum forming is a viable alternative to press forming and it does have some advantages. I've been using it for a couple of years now. I use the poly bags used for veneering and bone details right through the bag. I'm not quite clear on the use of the tabs left on the pattern. Do you use these for position and glue and sew the holster after forming? I sew up the entire holster prior to forming. Could you post some pics of your setup and maybe some of the finished product? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Topcat Report post Posted April 17, 2010 Topcat. I agree vacuum forming is a viable alternative to press forming and it does have some advantages. I've been using it for a couple of years now. I use the poly bags used for veneering and bone details right through the bag. I'm not quite clear on the use of the tabs left on the pattern. Do you use these for position and glue and sew the holster after forming? I sew up the entire holster prior to forming. Could you post some pics of your setup and maybe some of the finished product? The tabs allow for exact positioning (angle and depth....etc) on pancake type holsters. After I remove tabs, I can cut and form belt slots (all my holsters are hidden belt slot type) then I glue around the gun form for perfect alignment and finnish sew, edge etc. i will send some pictures of the HK 45 compact series I am running now when they are complete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted April 17, 2010 The tabs allow for exact positioning (angle and depth....etc) on pancake type holsters. After I remove tabs, I can cut and form belt slots (all my holsters are hidden belt slot type) then I glue around the gun form for perfect alignment and finnish sew, edge etc. i will send some pictures of the HK 45 compact series I am running now when they are complete Thanks. I look forward to seeing them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigRiverLeather Report post Posted April 26, 2010 Thanks. I look forward to seeing them. +1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted May 2, 2010 +1 +2...this process takes time huh?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Topcat Report post Posted May 2, 2010 +2...this process takes time huh?? The vacuum forming takes about 3 minutes.....cutting of the tabs 2 minutes. I allow the 2 haves to dry, check the fit, glue and sew. On smooth lined holsters and sheaths the result is awesome. I only use Kangaroo or kipskin linings....no suede....Topcat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigRiverLeather Report post Posted May 6, 2010 Did your pictures come back from Kodak yet? Just kidding. We'd really like to see some pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcos89 Report post Posted January 9, 2013 what kind of vacuum is used for this procedure? im in the market for machine but i cant find anything that seems to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 9, 2013 Marcos, . . . google Harbor Freight, . . . search vacuum pump. They have two and either will do the trick. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
