Billfold Wallet Inserts.

[BustedThumb]

Just starting out, and my attempts at figuring out bi-fold and tri-fold wallets aren't going smooth. I'm making the interiors myself, the best one I made so far, a bi-fold, has 4-5 oz cover & 1-1.5oz pig lining with 4 card slots, and it still bunches up in the middle quite badly when I fold it. I'm assuming there's something I'm not following right.

If anyone has a pattern handy, or can point me to a topic or book that has small items like this, I'd appreciate it.

[MADMAX22]

I dont have a pattern besides the physical one I made for my trifold but wanna say Kevin has a couple of good how tos. One is in the how do I do that section at the top, the other is in the wallet and pocket section at the top also.

When you make the insert portion for a bi or tri wallet you have to make the insert roughly about half an inch smaller in length then the outer portion. Then when you stitch or braid it together you have to leave a small portion in the center (the two fold lines on trifold) with a small half circle or something cut into it and you dont sew or braid this portion. When you sew or braid you attach the inside portion to both edges of the outer material first then work your way in. This causes the outside to kind of pull in around the liner. When you open the wallet it will pull open the money compartment and will prevent the inside from bunching when you fold it in.

Also when you first make it you gotta work it all into position and leave it tied up like that or preferably left under some weight for a while. It takes a little bit of time to break in.

This allows you to have less material on the inside and it wont bunch up to badly.

Here is a pic of one I made a little while back showing what I am talking about. Hope it helps.

Edited April 22, 2010 by MADMAX22

[JLSleather]

A photo of where you're trying to go would help. USED to be, a "bill-fold" was 9 1/4" x 3 3/8" and folded in half, and a "bi-fold" was 7 1/4" x 4 1/2" and folded in half. So it obviously matters which one you're trying to make. These days, I guess folks 'er calling this a "bi-fold". This what you're trying to do?

[TwinOaks]

Here's a link to another wallet thread- The pattern helps show the gap between the sides of the liner http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16830 (scroll down till you see the pattern)

[BustedThumb]

Thanks for the replies and link. JLS - I didn't even realize there was a difference or standard sizes. I'm sure there's 900 ways to make a simple wallet, but I'm barely finding any patterns or info in the books I've picked up. Max - I did make my exterior 3/16" bigger, but I'll try 1/2" and a cutout next time. Another problem I gleaned off other threads and looking at your pic is my lining is too thin, especially compared to the back. I need to either double it over or work with materials closer in thickness.

Edited April 23, 2010 by BustedThumb

[JLSleather]

All the older patterns, including craftaids, assumed that style was 9 1/4" x 3 3/8" and used 3/4 oz leather backing (I think the 4/5 oz is considerably too thick for a wallet). Anyway, the liner was then made from 1 1/2 - 2 oz chrome tanned, usually calf or goat. No notches. The sides were made 6" x 4" and then folded in half to 3" x 4", leaving an inch between them. The 1/4" shorter made the wallet bow slightly, which keeps it from "bunching". Tough to sew on a flatbed machine, but otherwise works well.