Anyone had this problem?

[Gremlin]

If you are comfortable doing an edgebraid rather than a double or triple loop, you can still butt the edges together and lace it. It will take the suctioncup type lip away and leave it a lot flatter making it more comfortable for the passenger as well as possibly giving you the size you need. Google mexican edge braid and you'll come up with the instructions. I'd post them but I'm at work right now and don't have access the the image file.

Good luck. Looks like you've spent a lot of time stamping and it would be a shame to have to start over.

[wolvenstien]

Gremlin, doing a google for "mexican edge braid" only gives me a broken link to leatherworker, and to a post by a gremlin here: http://jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16056

The pic of the seat shows what appears to be mexican basketweave as I know it, which is the same as what I used above on the sissy pad cover. Is this what you were referring to?

[Gremlin]

Opps - my mistake. Yes, what you have is a mexican basket weave which is the same as the edge braid (depending on who you talk to). I didn't look close enough to your pics.

So, instead of lacing the pieces side by side put them edge to edge and lace them flat. Don't let the top go over the bottom piece. Give that a try on a couple pieces of scrap first and see it that will work for you.

[Beaverslayer]

Wolvie, this has been bothering me all weekend, and I think I have a simple solution to your problem.

First, glue the edges of the front panel to the edges of the side panel together using a good contact cement.

Second, glue a strip of leather ( I use Pigskin) to the back of the panels. The corners will be a bit hard to do, but it can be done.

Third, repunch the holes through the stripping.

Fourth, start your lacing on the second hole from your starting point. And glue the tail down as shown. Then lace back into the first hole on the backside, and back to the front.

Fifth, on the front, cross over and lace into the second hole on the left side as shown.

Sixth, then lace from the back to the front again, the same as you did on the left side.

Seven, cross over the lacing and lace into the third hole, back a hole on the backside, then through to the front.

Eight, This is what I mean by lacing back a hole on the backside.

Nine, this is how you do a joint with this style of lacing. Run the lace under one of the loops a few spaces back and cut off. Start your new lace from under your last loop on the opposite side. As shown.

Ten, pull your lace through to the front, as you would have normally.

Eleven, the finished front lace.

Twelve, the finished back lace.

You should be able to moisten the lace when it comes time to wrap it around the foam, this will not effect it in any way.

As I said, the corners will be a bit of a bitch, but it can be done. Good luck, I hope this helps you save that seat.

Ken

[Hidemechanic]

Finish that one for another bike, and make yourself a new one. You'll fab a new back that someone can use. GHackett

Jordan, No way is Wolv gonna sell his Maggie and drive a smaller bike under the sissy bar pad. He'd wanta attach a auxilery fuel can to replace the pad before he'd wanta waste a perfectly good screemer. ROFLMAO. GH

[David]

I could not get anyone to hlp me with any type of design, and I saw either David or Beezes seat that was "elegantly simple" with basket weave tooling on the upper and lower of the seating area, and it looked nice, so since I could not get any help getting a scene that would bring all four pieces together, when I saw his seat I decided to go with something like that. It was posted on the 2007 board, and I dotn remember whose seat it was but I refered to it as "elegantly simple".

David, no I did not take this into account, and thank you for giving me the formula to figure it by... maybe now when i restart on it tomorrow I will get it to work.

That may have been my seat

[Gremlin]

What Ken has demonstrated in these photos is exactly what I was talking about by butting them up edge to edge. Just be sure not to let them overlap during the lacing, which the use of the pigskin should help control. Ken, thanks for posting the pics - saved me taking and posting them - exactly what was needed to describe what should work.

Edited January 15, 2008 by Johanna

[Beaverslayer]

It had been bothering me the whole weekend, and then when you posted your reply about the Mexican Edge Weave, I thought about it. I call this a basic X weave, never learned the name of it. It's the same way I build my vests and hats. The pigskin also helps the seam from coming apart, as there is no lacing crossing over on the backside to help the strength, so I use the pigskin.

Ken

[Gremlin]

Ken, what you do in those pics reminds me of the applique patterns I do on day planners and binder/journals.

[Jordan]

just my dry sense of humor, I would start over and redo b4 I downsized, but I don't have one right now so I guess I couldn't downsize even if I wanted to. I have a set of saddlebags waiting for a bike as we speak LOL.