My First Iwb Attempt

[Rayban]

Thanks to you that helped me get past the hardware issues I was having...It turned out alright.

It was a bit of an adventure at Lowe's picking out the right tee-nuts and screws that fit But I managed to get it right with one trip....very unlike my plumbing repair projects.

[MADMAX22]

Very clean, looks great IMO.

[Rayban]

Thanks Max....oh, and I'm starting on the black one tonight too.

[rybord]

Thanks to you that helped me get past the hardware issues I was having...It turned out alright.

It was a bit of an adventure at Lowe's picking out the right tee-nuts and screws that fit But I managed to get it right with one trip....very unlike my plumbing repair projects.

Looks Great IMHO!!!!!!

Ray

[dickf]

I think it looks good, too. My only advice would be to mold it on a curve and to use a cocked and locked dummy.

[Rayban]

I think it looks good, too. My only advice would be to mold it on a curve and to use a cocked and locked dummy.

Roger on the curved molded part.....but please explain to me why the cocked/locked gun would be any different than the one I use, since that part of the gun is clear of any leather.

Please understand, I'm not being argumentative, but I'm just learning about holsters and I simply don't know a lot.

Thanks,

Rg

[dickf]

Because the safety would be in the on position on a C&L'd dummy, and off in your version. The safety could be switched off inadvertently by pressure/friction when holstering or drawing due to the indent in the leather, creating a potentially deadly result. It's all about the thumb safety, not the hammer. Your safety is covered by the leather of the sweat shield.

[TwinOaks]

...Or just re-case the leather on the sweatshield and press it around the safety that's 'on', to remold that portion of the shield.

All I carry is my ol' '91A1 and with a good plunger spring, the safety has never dropped because of the holster. That's not to say that everyone who has a 1911 platform pays attention to the important details....so, Dick is right. It's better to plan ahead. Then again, Andy Artoonian (sp?) of Horseshoe gunleather molds only to 'hammer down, safety down(off)', because molding to "cocked and locked" could indicate that he suggests carrying in that way, possibly leading to liability issues. It's a big fur ball of ideas, and I have to admit that it technically is safer to carry in condition 3 - loaded magazine, no round chambered, hammer down- than in condition 1- loaded, chambered, hammer cocked, safety on. However, the question becomes safer for whom?

There was a thread a while back, maybe even pre-crash, in which we discussed this very thoroughly...Also the possibility of having one blue gun and the option of the safety "up" or "down" by grinding off the frame safety on the blue gun, drilling a hole, and mounting a real safety on the blue gun. That would give the customer the option without the necessity of a second blue gun purchase.

Oh, dear, I hope I haven't just started a 'what's the best way to carry a 1911' hijack.....

(BTW: Even if the safety in the off position, a PROPERLY built 1911 is still safe until the grip safety is depressed. On some models there is also a firing pin safety that is disengaged by either the grip safety or trigger. But unless the pistol is yours, and you can verify the correct function of all the safeties, don't presume that it is "in spec.".)

[LeatherCaptain]

Looks great!  Your stitching is very nice, too!

<div><br></div><div>Oh, but the one thing that someone mentioned about my holsters a while ago was to limit the use of the squared off "pointy" edges on your mouthband area.  One would assume that this will be the most vulnerable spot that would start to lift off the holster.  Maybe it never will but, a rounded edge would definitely lay flat and you wouldn't risk the loose edge.</div>

Edited May 1, 2010 by LeatherCaptain

[dickf]

Re-casing the leather to fit the 'on' position is something the customer or end-user would have to do because the maker is using a dummy with it in the off position. The customer is seeking the professional maker because of his abilities and his understanding of the firearm that the holster was designed for. If he (the customer) could do it himself (which could be messy if the holster is properly sealed, anyway), he would likely just make the holster himself, too. Here's the bottom line:

Method 1 - Molding the holster with safety in the on position = okay to carry c&l'd or with empty chamber and safety off

Method 2 - Molding the holster with safety in the off position = could result in the safety being knocked off leaving the pistol ready to fire. I don't see how this is any safer from a liability standpoint, either. Most people carry their 1911's in cond. 1, so accommodating them should be paramount. I'd rather let the customer make the decision on how they carry, but create the leather to safely accommodate both methods. Method 2 is dangerous!

I carry my Combat Elite every day in c&l'd cond. 1 and would never holster it in a rig designed to 'snap in' with the safety in the off position.