Thread And Stiching Awl Blades

[mischief]

Greetings

Have been reading posts for the past few weeks and need help with the following

When to use right hand and left hand twist treat for hand sewing.

What size awl blades to order all they list is how long they are

Thank you

[MADMAX22]

I asked the same question a while back http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19465

As far as the awls the length is the primary concern for how thick of leather you will be sewing and your hand size and such. Most of the awl blades you will get come in the standard diamond shape at various lengths and it is up to you to shape them to the proper width but be sure to keep that nice diamond shape.

I cant remember who, Barry kind or Bob Douglas but one of them makes the most highly recommended awl blades and they come very sharp and nicely polished. They are pricier but apparently well worth it.

[mischief]

Thank you that solves the left hand right hand thread part,however, with awl blades I understand small ,medium, and large like Tandy gives not the length in inches or the mm ero mesurement system for the other awl blade mfg.

I have no problem with the sharpening of the awl blades only trying to figure out the sizes.

Would a awl blade 2'' in length give a smaller diamond hole then one 3'' in length?

Respectfully

ED

[MADMAX22]

OK Ed I am probably going to get in a little over my head here as I am not that experienced.

Say for example osbourne awl blades which besides tandy are the only ones I have bought. They come in several lengths from like 1.5" to around 3". The width of the awl (the hole size) is basically the same for all of them, maybe slightly larger for the longer ones. I think the size deals primarily with the length. Pretty much all of these cheaper blades I have gotten I had to file down to get to make smaller holes for smaller thread.

the new tandy awls may be different as I have not gotten any of those yet and probably wont. I think my next set will be the guys I listed earilier.

There was a sizing guide I saw here on the forum I think that showed how to determine the size you needed based on your finger length and to take into consideration the length of the leather as well. Basically when you hold the awl handle and extend your forfinger the blade should come out to the end of your forefinger. This would theoretically show how much awl blade length would be used during a standard puncture. This seems to be about correct for varying leather thickness but may need to be adjusted for really thick stuff say like a sheath that has 4 or 5 layers of 8oz along the welt region.

Hope that helps.

[Hilly]

OK Ed I am probably going to get in a little over my head here as I am not that experienced.

Say for example osbourne awl blades which besides tandy are the only ones I have bought. They come in several lengths from like 1.5" to around 3". The width of the awl (the hole size) is basically the same for all of them, maybe slightly larger for the longer ones. I think the size deals primarily with the length. Pretty much all of these cheaper blades I have gotten I had to file down to get to make smaller holes for smaller thread.

the new tandy awls may be different as I have not gotten any of those yet and probably wont. I think my next set will be the guys I listed earilier.

There was a sizing guide I saw here on the forum I think that showed how to determine the size you needed based on your finger length and to take into consideration the length of the leather as well. Basically when you hold the awl handle and extend your forfinger the blade should come out to the end of your forefinger. This would theoretically show how much awl blade length would be used during a standard puncture. This seems to be about correct for varying leather thickness but may need to be adjusted for really thick stuff say like a sheath that has 4 or 5 layers of 8oz along the welt region.

Hope that helps.

The thing I have found with the one piece awl you get from Tandy (actually a C.S.Osborne or an Osborne clone) is that the fixed blade tends to pull out of the haft. I've bought a few of those, and was disappointed each time. I've spend as much on those crummy awls as I would have spent on a Bob Douglas awl that I would have been happy with. And for what it's worth, the awls you get from Bob Douglas don't need a tune up out of the box like the Tandy or Osborne awls do. It's also true that you will experience some sticker shock with the Douglas tools, but remember that you get what you pay for.

[mischief]

Thanks again,that is what I figured about the awl blade size.

Who sells the Bob Douglas awl blades,I tried several co's and google with no luck.

Respectfully

ED

Edited May 15, 2010 by mischief

[MADMAX22]

If you go to the leatherworker.net home page he is under the directory there. Gotta call him as I dont think he has a website.

[mischief]

If you go to the leatherworker.net home page he is under the directory there. Gotta call him as I dont think he has a website.

Tried that. I can log on and post here,however,can't get into the directory.Go figure

ED

[MADMAX22]

Douglas Tools

307-737-2222

Sheridan, Wyoming, Wyoming

United States

[mischief]

Douglas Tools

307-737-2222

Sheridan, Wyoming, Wyoming

United States

Thank you ,one more once

ED

[Kevin]

I don't know how exactly to explain this, and I could be full of something, but I feel the shorter your awl is, the less leverage you have to make a crooked hole and the more control you have to go straight.

Kevin

[Hilly]

I talked to Bog Douglas' wife the other day. She said that all their tools are packed up, ready to go to Sheridan. Although you may get through on the phone, don't expect much till after the show in Sheridan, as they are VERY busy at the moment. I'm sure the wait will be worth it, though.

[jimsaddler]

I don't know how exactly to explain this, and I could be full of something, but I feel the shorter your awl is, the less leverage you have to make a crooked hole and the more control you have to go straight.

Kevin

Hi Kevin

You are totally right, in most cases.

The shorter the Awl Blade the more control for normal stitching. For Bridle work 1 1/4" protruding from the Haft is adequate as it gives enough for the point to lead the hole straight then the body of the Awl to enlarge the hole sufficiently for good sewing.

[jimsaddler]

I don't know how exactly to explain this, and I could be full of something, but I feel the shorter your awl is, the less leverage you have to make a crooked hole and the more control you have to go straight.

Kevin

Hi Kevin

You are totally right, in most cases.

The shorter the Awl Blade the more control for normal stitching. For Bridle work 1 1/4" protruding from the Haft is adequate as it gives enough for the point to lead the hole straight then the body of the Awl to enlarge the hole sufficiently for good sewing.

When sewing Heavy rough work though Long is Good as it acts as a Crowbar.

A point with Awls! Your Awl is only what you make it! I've seen beautiful Awl Blades in the hands of Bumblers make terrible Stitches. Also I've seen Awls made of soft nails in the hands of Good Hand Sewers makes absolute masterpieces. "It's in the Hands not the Awl Blade". I've said it before only Practice, Practice and more Practice. Make your own Awl Blades from any good Steel Wire. They don't have to be a full Diamond for their length, the first section that makes the cut is the important part. Say 1/2" then a polished oval shape will do the job perfectly. With the polish being important.

I hope this helps.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

[busted]

Greetings

Have been reading posts for the past few weeks and need help with the following

When to use right hand and left hand twist treat for hand sewing.

What size awl blades to order all they list is how long they are

Thank you

What ever your project is, the leather doesn't care what twist the thread is.

Hand sewing is not hard on the thread, some sewing machines will

not sew with the wrong twist thread. I would not use nylon I would use

the polyester or the linen thread. You might consider using a linen cord around

the number 3 size numbers 5 and 7 are way to heavy for hand sewing in

my opinion but there are folks that use them.

I don't know what to say about the awl size. If you don't like what is

available make your own from a nail. I would use the 6 penny finishing nail

my self but that is up to you. Get a propane torch, a hammer, a file and

something to forge the awl on preferably an anvil. Don't for get to heat treat

your new awl. It makes no difference if you heated the nail in the process of

forming. Use a pair of plires and hold the nail, heat the nail to a straw color

the full length of the nail. You can quench the nail in oil if want to that makes

it a little harder.

This will allow you to make all of the awls you want in what ever size you want.

And there will not be any sticker shock from this method and as the one

post said it is in the hands of the craftsman not completely in the tool.

Practice, practice, practice. Have a nice day.

[MADMAX22]

Good info Busted, I am gonna have to try out the nail thing.

As far as thread size I think 6cord linen is a great size for belts, holsters, and sheaths. 3cored I like using for inlay portions of sheaths and such. I guess it depends on what you make as to the size you wanna use and the style.

[mischief]

Now that the awl size has been resolved,THANK YOU, I'm going to modify and polish some 3 sided canvas needles and try them as awls.

I have a bunch of 13.14,15 & 16 size sail needles,the 13 & 14 look like the best.Might try a horse shoe nail or two also

ED

Edited May 17, 2010 by mischief