particle Report post Posted April 17, 2008 Has anyone ever made a DIY parts press / clicker? I just had an order for 10 of my rifle rests, which means I have to cut out 80 identical parts of the design, 40 of another smaller piece, and then a bunch of short pieces of nylon webbing. The guy wanted to order 50 rests, but didn't think I could handle that demand. ....Well, he was right! At least, I can't do it in the time he needs them by. I can handle 10. Is it possible to create a home-made clicker? I have access to various metal working tools and materials. What is the surface made of that is on the bottom side of the cutting surface? You have the press on top, the cutting die, the leather, then the bottom surface that needs to be able to withstand the cutting force - what is that surface made of? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dink Report post Posted April 17, 2008 There are many people who use a normal machine press with the jack for cutting with dies, you just need to add the table and cutting surface. cutting surfaces are available several places, I think I got my last one from Atom, I will look for a You can message me if you need and I will try to find you some numbers. Has anyone ever made a DIY parts press / clicker?I just had an order for 10 of my rifle rests, which means I have to cut out 80 identical parts of the design, 40 of another smaller piece, and then a bunch of short pieces of nylon webbing. The guy wanted to order 50 rests, but didn't think I could handle that demand. ....Well, he was right! At least, I can't do it in the time he needs them by. I can handle 10. Is it possible to create a home-made clicker? I have access to various metal working tools and materials. What is the surface made of that is on the bottom side of the cutting surface? You have the press on top, the cutting die, the leather, then the bottom surface that needs to be able to withstand the cutting force - what is that surface made of? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Report post Posted April 17, 2008 Particle, See my post in the Supplier section on a couple of Clickers I just tried. Email me if needed. Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmokinP Report post Posted April 19, 2008 I'm designing/fabbing one here and there. I have drawings in AutoCAD be glad to send you if interested. Basically the design is from information gathered here and using materials available. I could email the drawings as .dwg files if you can read them or can convert them to a different format. The drawings are made for my own use so they need some cleaning up. Drop me an email if you (or anyone else) be interested. Smokin P Ranch email Smokin P Ranch website Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duke Report post Posted April 19, 2008 I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN SEEING THOSE. MAYBE IN A .PDF FORMAT? FEEL FREE TO EMAIL THEM TO THIS SCREENNAME. THANKS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomBanwell Report post Posted April 19, 2008 What is the surface made of that is on the bottom side of the cutting surface? You have the press on top, the cutting die, the leather, then the bottom surface that needs to be able to withstand the cutting force - what is that surface made of? It's a thick piece of plastic. Maybe nylon? Or Delrin? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbarleather Report post Posted April 19, 2008 Particle, I recently purchased a 10 ton hydraulic press. I'm in the process of modifying it to operate as both a press and a clicker. I know that these guys carry the surface you are looking for. http://www.bogle-greenwell.com/bgl_cutting.htm Once I complete my press, I'll post some photos. Daryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmokinP Report post Posted April 19, 2008 Let me get the drawings fixed up a little and I'll get em out to whoever wants them. Then we can get some comments and suggestions. Maybe be the "Leatherworker.net Clicker Press". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted April 23, 2008 This thread fell off my "New Posts" radar - I would certainly be interested in seeing you guys' press designs. I sketched something up, but that's as far as I've gotten. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skip Report post Posted April 23, 2008 in the posts last week about pictures of different shops and how they are set up I saw a picture of a clicker that could easily be duplicated if a person has some metal working tools and a welder. the poster's name was Randyc. I also believe that Weaver leather has one like that in their catalog. I hope this helps I too have run into the problem of not being able to cut out a lot of parts for a product I make and am looking for a similar clicker. good luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlcoveShop Report post Posted April 23, 2008 in the posts last week about pictures of different shops and how they are set up I saw a picture of a clicker that could easily be duplicated if a person has some metal working tools and a welder. the poster's name was Randyc. I also believe that Weaver leather has one like that in their catalog. I hope this helps I too have run into the problem of not being able to cut out a lot of parts for a product I make and am looking for a similar clicker. good luck Harbor Freight Tools is your best friend for making your own clicker. I'm going to let the cat out of the bag for making cheap clicker dies- Banding stock. Banding Stock + Hardwood Shapes + Sheet Metal Screws = Some pretty elaborate dies that can last for quite sometime. You can sharpen the banding stock (free if you look for it) with a simple set up, Ive even done it with a dremel. Cut the shape from a good dry hardwood. (I use 1 1/4" for 1 1/2" banding, 1 3/4" for 2" banding) I leave approximately 1/4" give or take depending on my needs for the leather. I cut 1/2" holes in the block for push out pegs (I use a standard configuration so I can put these pegs in a bench and turn the die upside down and press the leather out) The banding is attached to the block by predrilling holes for the screws as needed. Ive gotten 100 or so before sharpening. In some cases, I just pop new sharpened stock on and get back to it... The rest is self explanatory, I hope... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vwoodard Report post Posted June 19, 2010 I know this is an old thread, but figured i'd put my 2 cents in on it.. Look around on craigslist and the classified section of the local newspaper. I just picked up a 30 ton manual hydraulic shop press for like $150 and its in like new condition. all I am going to need to do to make it functional is to make up a top and bottom plate for it and get some HDPE (high density polyethelyne) white board (like cutting board material) and it will be ready to go. most local small welding shops can put something together pretty easy for whatever the size you get is. After I have made it pay for itself a few times, I will probably swap the manual bottle jack out with an air assist or a fully air activated jack so I can control it with a couple of foot pedals. That will cost more than the whole press, but even with all that, I will still have less into it than most of the regular clickers that only have a 18x24" cutting/embossing area. Just a though. now on to figuring out cheap dies... Harbor Freight Tools is your best friend for making your own clicker. I'm going to let the cat out of the bag for making cheap clicker dies- Banding stock. Banding Stock + Hardwood Shapes + Sheet Metal Screws = Some pretty elaborate dies that can last for quite sometime. You can sharpen the banding stock (free if you look for it) with a simple set up, Ive even done it with a dremel. Cut the shape from a good dry hardwood. (I use 1 1/4" for 1 1/2" banding, 1 3/4" for 2" banding) I leave approximately 1/4" give or take depending on my needs for the leather. I cut 1/2" holes in the block for push out pegs (I use a standard configuration so I can put these pegs in a bench and turn the die upside down and press the leather out) The banding is attached to the block by predrilling holes for the screws as needed. Ive gotten 100 or so before sharpening. In some cases, I just pop new sharpened stock on and get back to it... The rest is self explanatory, I hope... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted June 22, 2010 My setup is a $149 12T press from Northern Tool. I've got a 12"x12" HDPE sitting on top of a steel plate. And another steel plate I put on top of the die when I get it in position. I have not modified the ram rod as I still want to be able to use it as a press if I need too (it is in my garage and I do work on my truck) What I'll probably do after I get my welder is build different crossbeam that sits under the ram. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
horsewreck Report post Posted June 23, 2010 My setup is a $149 12T press from Northern Tool. I've got a 12"x12" HDPE sitting on top of a steel plate. And another steel plate I put on top of the die when I get it in position. I have not modified the ram rod as I still want to be able to use it as a press if I need too (it is in my garage and I do work on my truck) What I'll probably do after I get my welder is build different crossbeam that sits under the ram. Monica, I have seen that press in the northern catalog and have come close to buying it but I still have not found a source of dies that I can afford, my problem is that our product line being mostly custom and covering saddlery and gun leather as well I don't get to replicate items that often. Who do you get your dies from? I think I might try that process of makeing dies out of banding stock like alcoveshop suggests above...... Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted June 23, 2010 Monica, I have seen that press in the northern catalog and have come close to buying it but I still have not found a source of dies that I can afford, my problem is that our product line being mostly custom and covering saddlery and gun leather as well I don't get to replicate items that often. Who do you get your dies from? I think I might try that process of makeing dies out of banding stock like alcoveshop suggests above...... Jeff Jeff, I've just started to order dies, one by one. I've ordered from Texas Custom Dies. They make a nice die though I have not ordered yet my regular holster patterns. I'm currently waiting for a reply on one of my fullsize patterns as I mail it in (no fax and I don't trust email for patterns). I saw the DIY above and I'm interested in trying it myself to see what comes out. Biggest question I have on it is if the metal band stays strong and sturdy enough not to warp over repeated presses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
horsewreck Report post Posted June 25, 2010 Jeff, I've just started to order dies, one by one. I've ordered from Texas Custom Dies. They make a nice die though I have not ordered yet my regular holster patterns. I'm currently waiting for a reply on one of my fullsize patterns as I mail it in (no fax and I don't trust email for patterns). I saw the DIY above and I'm interested in trying it myself to see what comes out. Biggest question I have on it is if the metal band stays strong and sturdy enough not to warp over repeated presses. Monica, I will check out TX Custom Dies. Ditto on your concern about metal band holding shape but I may try it just to see. Thanks...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vwoodard Report post Posted July 2, 2010 Figured I would put my 2 cents in... I just ordered 2 dies this week from Tippmann Industrial here in Indiana. one is a violin shaped flask for re-enactors, the other in a strap cut out for making a mug strap for hanging your cup or whatever else from your belt. The 2 of them combined were like $165 with about a week turn around (should be here monday). For more simple shapes, I have talked to a local metal fabrication place (small 1 man shop) that is going to do some of the more simple designs for me, and is helping me get the plates for my press put together. As for the "metal banding" do it yourself dies, I have been told that the key to it is to only allow enough metal outside to cut thru the leather and a couple Millimeters to go into the cuting pad. the rest should be supported and locked into the plywood top. I have a friend of mine that does work on CNC machines for a place that makes all their own dies using that method for cutting out plastic/paper/leather templates and gets anywhere from 100-200 pieces before having to replace it. if its something they use alot, the DIY makes them enough money to send off to have a die professionaly made (or several . If I had more time and space to do them myself, that would be the way to go (and probably will for the next couple due to size and cost of what I want to get made) Vince Jeff, I've just started to order dies, one by one. I've ordered from Texas Custom Dies. They make a nice die though I have not ordered yet my regular holster patterns. I'm currently waiting for a reply on one of my fullsize patterns as I mail it in (no fax and I don't trust email for patterns). I saw the DIY above and I'm interested in trying it myself to see what comes out. Biggest question I have on it is if the metal band stays strong and sturdy enough not to warp over repeated presses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted July 6, 2010 Just an update, plus a question. My order is in and being built for one of my fullsize patterns at Texas Custom Die. It's running $60 (plus shipping). I think that's reasonable. As for the question, I've got a bunch of this garden metal edging I'm about to pull up. Can that material be used instead of new metal banding? Just curious. I figure while I've got the stuff might as well experiment. Also, where do you buy metal banding from? Do they just have that at home depot or the like? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
