Gun Belt Tips

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Stresses on the leather are generally much greater on horse tack than on a leather gun belt. I've seen horse tack that's been torn along the "perforated" line. I've been wearing one of our belts, carrying a 1911-frame style of gun nearly every day, and cinch the belt up tightly to some extent. I've been wearing this particular belt for over 2 years, every day. I'm yet to see any separation along that stitch line. So while it seems that you would potentially experience the same result on the belt as you do on the horse tack, it just doesn't happen. I'll just keep on being stupid I guess.

I don't think you're being stupid. Maybe a little stubborn, though . Then again, I've been accused of being a holster construction elitist before, and my wife says I'm stubborn too....

I get what you're saying, and you could be right, but I'm not taking any chances (besides, Dad wouldn't let me hear the end of it). I think that good leather and a longer stitch spacing might even alleviate the issue entirely, but I still think that not running the stitching straight across the belt is the best answer. If it doesn't cost any more or take more time to do it the time honored way, it can add perceived value to the belt, and avoid possible long term wear issues, why not build them that way?

[K-Man]

My saying, "call me stupid," is but a figure of speech.

I don't think you're being stupid. Maybe a little stubborn, though . Then again, I've been accused of being a holster construction elitist before, and my wife says I'm stubborn too....

I get what you're saying, and you could be right, but I'm not taking any chances (besides, Dad wouldn't let me hear the end of it). I think that good leather and a longer stitch spacing might even alleviate the issue entirely, but I still think that not running the stitching straight across the belt is the best answer. If it doesn't cost any more or take more time to do it the time honored way, it can add perceived value to the belt, and avoid possible long term wear issues, why not build them that way?

And I understand what you're saying with respect to the horse tack, applying the theories you suggest. But as I pointed out, the stress is less on the gun belt than on a piece of horse tack. I sew it in that manner that I do, in part, to ensure that end of the "bottom" strap stays down. I've seen instances where the glue does not hold that part of the strap down/in place.

Doing it the time honored way doesn't always make it the best way. Nothing sends me up the flag pole faster than reading "this is the way we've always done it" in an effort to justify the means.

Surely if I had experienced, either personally or from a customer's belt, the perforation/tearing suggested then I could, and would, reconsider my approach/means whereby I make the belt. For example, I'm exceptionally rough on any equipment/product I use, be it leather gear or hand tools. I broke two Tippmann BOSS handstitchers beyond repair in very short order; I've torn up chain saws - three in a matter of three hours; and there's a litany of other examples. My point is that if I cannot personally tear it up or destroy it, then the odds are I've got a very durable product.

I think in this instance it would be best to leave it where you can say, "this is the way I've done it and met with satisfactory/non-issue results," and I can say the same. Those reading can then determine for themselves which route, or stitch line, they want to follow.

Edited May 20, 2010 by K-Man

[BigRiverLeather]

Wow. It seems a battle has ensued about right or wrong when I don't see an instance where one said the other person was doing anything wrong, only different.

I'm with abn, as with so many other things along my journey into the realm of leatherwork, I take a bit from here, and a bit from there sometimes blend a couple of differnet methods, sometimes I make it up on my own (often learning why no-one else does it that way ) and my learning curve is greatly reduced.

I like the idea of using 2 layers of 6/7 ounce, probably because I already had that stuck in my thick skull. I also like the idea of not staining the inside layer as to prevent bleedoff. No stain, no chance of bleed off ever. Plu, I really like the look, it looks like extra time and care were taken in the construction.

Frankly, I'm not even sure what part of the belt you are referring to sewing straight across (or not). At the end of the two layers before the fold over the buckle?

Anyway, I appreciate the tips from all sides. I'm really looking forward to doing some exotic skin belts.

[Lobo]

Double 8/9 is too much of a good thing. Line the 8/9 with 5/6 or 6/7 and you are good to go. Personnaly I really like the 9/10oz bridle leather lined with 2/3 calf or 3/4 veg. Makes a beautiful belt heavy enough for any reasonable application.

Perhaps I was not as clear as I might have been. Two layers of 8/9 oz. is extremely heavy. I personally prefer to line the 9/10 oz. with 4/5 oz. Attached are photos of a belt I recently completed for my own use, 1.5" width around the body, tapered to 1" at the buckle and tongue areas, with a little fancy stitching. Supports my Kimber Classic TLE easily and comfortably.

[particle]

Perhaps I was not as clear as I might have been. Two layers of 8/9 oz. is extremely heavy. I personally prefer to line the 9/10 oz. with 4/5 oz. Attached are photos of a belt I recently completed for my own use, 1.5" width around the body, tapered to 1" at the buckle and tongue areas, with a little fancy stitching. Supports my Kimber Classic TLE easily and comfortably.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

[crazy k38]

Thank you - that tells me what I needed to know. I built a belt for myself a while back, but it was entirely hand sewn. I haven't come across any tutorials showing start-to-finish on building a basic gun belt. Guess I'll make a video of it one of these days... that is, after I figure out exactly what I'm doing!!

Thanks again.

If it's anything like your Youtube video on holster making it is well anticipated!

[jack523]

What kind of industrial staples? I was thinking of brass but that would cut the cost buy inserting them by hand. Nice looking belt. I was making one like that with an oiled leather. Did you use contact cement?

The staples are to connect the ends of the keeper. I just use industrial staples and crimp them on with needle nose pliers. I make the holes for them with a stitching awl. Unfortunately, I can't upload any pictures right now. My computer went the way of the Dodo, and I have a temporary solution but the current computer I am using doesn't have a card reader, nor does my camera have a USB port.

Here is a picture that I already had that might give you an idea of what I was talking about with the buckle end.