Need help with stitch problem

[particle]

I can post a picture tonight if this is not an obvious problem.

My stitches look pretty good on the top. Nice, even stitches. The top looks perfect. When I look at the backside, the stitches look flat, like they've been ironed into the fabric. Now, before everyone jumps to a tension diagnosis - it (to me, at least) doesn't seem like a problem with tension. It seems like too much pressure with the foot. I tried using two different colors of thread, and I can't see either color protruding through the holes to the other side, so that tells me the tension must be pretty good.

My machine is a Consew 206rb. Since it's compound feed, I know the needles is going to help pull the material through - can I get away with using less presser foot pressure than I would otherwise with just a walking foot? I've already reduced it a bit because it was marring the leather, but do I need to go even further?

[Luke Hatley]

IF YOU ARE SEWING LEATHER the bottom stiches should be down and flat (kinda).

is it possible to show a photo?, it would help a lots...

[particle]

Sorry, yes - I'm sewing Leather. Two layers of 3-4oz suede. The problem with my product is that both sides will be equally visible. Top and bottom stitches both need to be presentable. I will try to post a picture tonight.

[Art]

It sounds "normal" to me. Bottom stitches always look tighter especially when the bottom is flesh side. If you are getting PF tracks, reduce PF pressure and never sew wet. If sewing chrome tan or "soft" leathers, then use the lowest bobbin tension you can get by with. What I do is keep separate bobbin cases set to different tensions. For your machine they are about $10 apiece for good ones.

Art

I can post a picture tonight if this is not an obvious problem.

My stitches look pretty good on the top. Nice, even stitches. The top looks perfect. When I look at the backside, the stitches look flat, like they've been ironed into the fabric. Now, before everyone jumps to a tension diagnosis - it (to me, at least) doesn't seem like a problem with tension. It seems like too much pressure with the foot. I tried using two different colors of thread, and I can't see either color protruding through the holes to the other side, so that tells me the tension must be pretty good.

My machine is a Consew 206rb. Since it's compound feed, I know the needles is going to help pull the material through - can I get away with using less presser foot pressure than I would otherwise with just a walking foot? I've already reduced it a bit because it was marring the leather, but do I need to go even further?

[David Genadek]

The bottom stitiches never look as nice when sewing with a single needle machine. That has always been one of the arguments for staying with needle and awl machines. The needle makes a nicer hole on the top than the bottom. In all likely hood your customer will never notice.

David Genadek

[particle]

I was finally able to take some pictures of my stitch problems. I'm not so concerned anymore about the flat appearance of the backside of the leather, but I have other problems that have popped up. Please take a look and let me know if there is an easy fix, or if I just need to have the machine serviced and tuned.

You can see (above) the puckering of the thread on the backside of the stitch when it hits the webbing - as you can see, it happened on the second (inner) stitch, but the first stitch (outside) worked fine just moments before.

(Above) See how it skipped a stitch as it stepped on/off the edge of the webbing where there was a lack of pressure on the leather immediately before/after the webbing? Two layers of webbing and two layers of 3-4 ounce leather.

(Above) Again, but this time on top grain leather. You can see where I tried to back stitch this time, but it still had difficulty catching the loop in the thread, and it also messed up the tension for a few stitches afterwards.

I'm using Coats 69 bonded nylon thread, and Schmetz 135x16 size 22 leather needles that I bought from Artisan.

Any thoughts on something I can try to adjust on my machine? It's a Consew 206RB compound feed.

[Art]

If you are going to be doing this work all the time, I would set the machine up for it. First, you need to be using an 18/110 needle, and if using poly, I have seen a 16/100 used but not for high speed production work. These machines depend on a little bit of tension from the needle hole and a 22 makes a 1.4mm hole, which is quite large for 69 thread and could easily sew 138. Second, you are getting a bit of needle deflection when going up and down hills, I would check the needle/hook clearance and set it up tight for the needle you will be using.

Definitely do the needle size first, the hook is a bit more challenging.

Art

I was finally able to take some pictures of my stitch problems. I'm not so concerned anymore about the flat appearance of the backside of the leather, but I have other problems that have popped up. Please take a look and let me know if there is an easy fix, or if I just need to have the machine serviced and tuned.

You can see (above) the puckering of the thread on the backside of the stitch when it hits the webbing - as you can see, it happened on the second (inner) stitch, but the first stitch (outside) worked fine just moments before.

(Above) See how it skipped a stitch as it stepped on/off the edge of the webbing where there was a lack of pressure on the leather immediately before/after the webbing? Two layers of webbing and two layers of 3-4 ounce leather.

(Above) Again, but this time on top grain leather. You can see where I tried to back stitch this time, but it still had difficulty catching the loop in the thread, and it also messed up the tension for a few stitches afterwards.

I'm using Coats 69 bonded nylon thread, and Schmetz 135x16 size 22 leather needles that I bought from Artisan.

Any thoughts on something I can try to adjust on my machine? It's a Consew 206RB compound feed.

[particle]

Thanks Art - I asked the lady on the phone with Artisan what I needed, and just ran with it. I told her what size thread I had, and she said I needed a size 22 needle. It definitely bores some pretty large holes... I'll give the needle size a try first.

Are there any videos that I can buy that tell about adjusting / maintaining these machines?