Tippman Boss Bobbin Trouble

[skyblast]

This is to anyone using or knows how to use a Tippman Boss. I really do not understand the mechanism behind the bobbin tension?? At least on my TB the screw looks to be functioning perfect however I do not understand what creates tension on the bobbin? When I tighten the screw down the bobbin turns as freely as when the screw is loose? The arm with the screw in it doesn't even touch the bobbin when it's completely in...

In the picture the bobbin is all the way in. When I hold the tension arm down (the arm with the screw in it) the bobbin turns freely. Why? Isn't the tension arm (with the screw) supposed create tension?

Any ideas?

Edited June 10, 2010 by skyblast

[skyblast]

This is to anyone using or knows how to use a Tippman Boss. I really do not understand the mechanism behind the bobbin tension?? At least on my TB the screw looks to be functioning perfect however I do not understand what creates tension on the bobbin? When I tighten the screw down the bobbin turns as freely as when the screw is loose? The arm with the screw in it doesn't even touch the bobbin when it's completely in...

In the picture the bobbin is all the way in. When I hold the tension arm down (the arm with the screw in it) the bobbin turns freely. Why? Isn't the tension arm (with the screw) supposed create tension?

Any ideas?

Oh... I think I figured it out. The arm places tension on the thread not the actual bobbin. I took off the tension arm, gave it a few tweaks and now there seems to be more tension on the thread. I'm glad that I didn't have to box it up and send it to Indiana. Thanks for being a sounding board leatherworker.net!!

[Dwight]

Skyblast, . . . couple of things: 1) get on Tippmann's website, . . . grab the number, . . . call em up, . . . talk to Jim, . . . he'll walk you through almost any problem you can imagine. Don't have to ship it back there.

2) Just a few little things you can do that will help out (it did me anyway). The wire arm that the thread goes through off the spool, . . . bend the rascal down so that the thread comes off the spool at a 90 degree angle, instead of being pulled up and off the spool.

Also make a wooden dowel to go inside the plastic spool your thread comes on, . . . fill that big void so your spool turns around freely.

Get a solid metal ring for the thread to flow through instead of the hook in the end of the wire (again, first place the thread goes when it leaves the spool).

Put 1/4 inch nuts on top of your top string tensioners, tighten em down with a small crescent to keep the adjustments from moving.

The thread comes off the spool, through the wire thingy, then through a post with two holes at the right of your machine. Next it goes past a post and around the first tensioner. Bring it back and loop it around the little post it slides in front of, then allow it to go to the next tensioner.

Start out with enough top tension to pull the string up through two layers of 8 oz veggie tan leather. Tighten the bobbin tension until you pull it back through. Re tighten the top tension to pull it to the top again. Re tighten the bobbin tension till it pulls to the bottom again. Your final tension adjustment should now pull the thread up halfway, . . . make that adjustment on the top thread tensioners. You will now have a machine that will work well for a pretty wide range of leather thicknesses as long as you are making fairly long stitches and using 346 thread.

Anyway, . . . it works for mine.

May God bless,

Dwight