Consistent Double Loop Lacing

[UKRay]

I'm double loop lacing motorcycle seats at present but each time I splice in a new piece of lace the next bit of lacing becomes slightly tighter or looser than the one before which makes the work look a bit untidy.

I know that, in the end, the tension is down to me, but does anyone have a good technique or a few tips that might make this process easier? How do you guys make your double loop lacing look so neat?

Ray

[TroyS]

I always try to make sure I'm using the same pulling force to pull my lace, then when I'm all done, I go around the whole seat with a small rubber mallet and lightly tamp the laces into place. It helps 'SEAT' the lace and gives a nice even consistency all the way around....

[Luke Hatley]

Ray i'm with Troy on the lace... I will say this If you are lacing a very long pc of lace

by the time you get to the end to start a new pc there will be a difference in the two

laces.things to look for, are your laceing holes the right size and did you lubricate your lace?

[UKRay]

That all makes sense, guys - thanks Troy. Anyone else got anything to add as I'm grateful for all suggestions.

How do you know if the holes are the right size, Luke? And what should I use to lubricate the lace with? I could use a bit of Skidmore's I guess...

[Luke Hatley]

That all makes sense, guys - thanks Troy. Anyone else got anything to add as I'm grateful for all suggestions.

How do you know if the holes are the right size, Luke? And what should I use to lubricate the lace with? I could use a bit of Skidmore's I guess...

you'll know if the holes are TOO SMALL. i have used parafin to lube the lace also

white saddle soap, i do beleive that Skidmore's would help.... "a little will go a long way"

[pete]

what I do in some cases is to splice the lace when I can't easily get between the leather to bury the last one.

Skive the bottom of the new top piece, and the top (grain) of the old bottom piece.

The key is to skive it a few inches!

Let the glue dry .

By having a 2-3" overlap, you can pull the lace with the overlap at the same time and you won't sacrifice the pulling tension. By the time you have solid lace again you're good.

Crazy glue dries immed. but it can be a bit rigid. Barge takes a few moments but stays pliable.

pete

what I do in some cases is to splice the lace when I can't easily get between the leather to bury the last one.

Skive the bottom of the new top piece, and the top (grain) of the old bottom piece.

The key is to skive it a few inches!

Let the glue dry .

By having a 2-3" overlap, you can pull the lace with the overlap at the same time and you won't sacrifice the pulling tension. By the time you have solid lace again you're good.

Crazy glue dries immed. but it can be a bit rigid. Barge takes a few moments but stays pliable.

pete

[electrathon]

I lace most of the work I do. I have found a few tricks.

First, use slots. Round holes are for round lace, flat holes are for flat lace.

Keep your slots very close to the edge (1/8" max).

Use this tool: http://www.hidecrafter.com/hci/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=519&category_id=94&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35 Hands down the best lacing punch I have ever used (and I have many). There are a couple sizes of them. Use the correct sized one or the one that is too small, never use too big of a punch.

Use Kangeroo lace, this is very important for long term durability and it always looks best.

Lube the lace with parafin. I use a candle.

Double lace even when you want only one color, just use 2 laces like you are using two colors. It "fills" the spaces better.

Be carefull not to pull it too tight. You will get the feel after a while, but it is rarely too loose, often too tight.

Below are a couple pics of lacing, the female wallet is standard calf lace, the mens wallet and checkbook are Kangeroo. The last one was before I learned to properly space the slots and used a Tandy lacing punch.

Aaron