Help Me Learn To Use My Juki Ddl-5550

[Stocksuspension]

well today i went to downtown la. i went to this industrial sewing shop in the fashion district. The owner recommended i run a teflon foot and a smaller pulley on my machine. well i spent 50 bucks. That got me a teflon foot, smaller pulley, and a couple spools of nylon thread. I fitted the new accesories to the machine and gave it a shot. big difference. I did some random

stitches on a scrap piece of leather i had. I folded it in half and seemed to operate pretty good.

another pic

[Wizcrafts]

Get yourself a roller foot if you can. It will feed even better than the teflon foot.

It looks like you are now getting close to 5 stitches per inch. Is that correct? That is your likely maximum, without resorting to hacking the machine.

[Stocksuspension]

Can some one explain or direct me to a link in the purpose/importance of thread tension?

[Wizcrafts]

Can some one explain or direct me to a link in the purpose/importance of thread tension?

I can explain it to you. To produce a good stitch you must balance the top thread and bobbin thread tensions so that the knot is formed in inside the leather, not on top or on the bottom. You don't want the top thread to be so tight that it filigrees the material, nor do you want it so loose that it forms slight loops on top of the leather. Start by adjusting the bobbin spring tension to provide a slight resistance as the thread is pulled out. If it is too loose it may be pulled to the top of the top layer, or the thread may get jammed inside the bobbin case. If it is too tight, you'll need to really tighten down the upper thread, to the point of breaking it, or filigreeing the leather.

With the bobbin thread pulling smoothly, with slight resistance, insert it into the bobbin shuttle, making sure it snaps in. Leave several inches of thread out of the bobbin case. Bring the bobbin thread up by cycling the needle once with 6" of top thread in it, while holding down the loose end in your left hand. When the needle and take-up lever raises up the top thread should have captured the bobbin thread and it can be pulled up through the little hole in the bobbin case cover plate.

Set the top tension adjuster to the half way in point, to start. There should be some good resistance, but the thread should be pull-able with the foot down. If you can't pull the thread through the top tension discs by hand, how is the take-up lever going to do so? If the top thread is not seated well inside the tension discs, it will probably be pulled under the bottom layer and you'll have to pull it out and start over. Similarly, if the top thread is seated, but the spring tension is too loose, the bobbin thread may pull it down under the bottom layer.

Place some leather under the pressor foot, hold back the top and bottom thread ends, and run a few stitches. Look at both sides to see if the thread lays snugly on the leather and the knots are pulled well into the bottom layer. If there are knots on the top of the leather, loosen the top tension one turn at a time, until they are no longer visible on top. If the knots are showing under the bottom layer, tighten the top thread tensioner. If the knots are inside the leather, but the thread is laying loose on the top or bottom, increase the bobbin spring tension by a half turn. You will eventually learn to figure out the best top and bottom tension to form a properly set stitch. Once the bobbin tension is good you don't need to change it. Buy more bobbin cases to use with other sizes of thread and adjust each one for the best result. Experiment before sewing a new job. If you change thread or needle sizes, retest the thread settings and adjust the top as needed.

Your Juki 5550 is a garment sewing machine and if you set the top or bottom tension way too tight, you could damage the machine or break the needles. Set it so you have just enough balanced tension to form tight stitches that lay flat, with the knots pulled well inside the bottom layer. If the top tension is very tight, but the bottom thread is not pulled well into the leather, try changing to a larger needle size. A bigger needle makes a bigger hole and the knots are pulled up with less effort. You may find that if you are ok sewing leather garments with #69 thread and a #18 needle, then try to sew belt leather, a #20 needle will work better.

Edited July 12, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[Stocksuspension]

I can explain it to you. To produce a good stitch you must balance the top thread and bobbin thread tensions so that the knot is formed in inside the leather, not on top or on the bottom. You don't want the top thread to be so tight that it filigrees the material, nor do you want it so loose that it forms slight loops on top of the leather. Start by adjusting the bobbin spring tension to provide a slight resistance as the thread is pulled out. If it is too loose it may be pulled to the top of the top layer, or the thread may get jammed inside the bobbin case. If it is too tight, you'll need to really tighten down the upper thread, to the point of breaking it, or filigreeing the leather.

With the bobbin thread pulling smoothly, with slight resistance, insert it into the bobbin shuttle, making sure it snaps in. Leave several inches of thread out of the bobbin case. Bring the bobbin thread up by cycling the needle once with 6" of top thread in it, while holding down the loose end in your left hand. When the needle and take-up lever raises up the top thread should have captured the bobbin thread and it can be pulled up through the little hole in the bobbin case cover plate.

Set the top tension adjuster to the half way in point, to start. There should be some good resistance, but the thread should be pull-able with the foot down. If you can't pull the thread through the top tension discs by hand, how is the take-up lever going to do so? If the top thread is not seated well inside the tension discs, it will probably be pulled under the bottom layer and you'll have to pull it out and start over. Similarly, if the top thread is seated, but the spring tension is too loose, the bobbin thread may pull it down under the bottom layer.

Place some leather under the pressor foot, hold back the top and bottom thread ends, and run a few stitches. Look at both sides to see if the thread lays snugly on the leather and the knots are pulled well into the bottom layer. If there are knots on the top of the leather, loosen the top tension one turn at a time, until they are no longer visible on top. If the knots are showing under the bottom layer, tighten the top thread tensioner. If the knots are inside the leather, but the thread is laying loose on the top or bottom, increase the bobbin spring tension by a half turn. You will eventually learn to figure out the best top and bottom tension to form a properly set stitch. Once the bobbin tension is good you don't need to change it. Buy more bobbin cases to use with other sizes of thread and adjust each one for the best result. Experiment before sewing a new job. If you change thread or needle sizes, retest the thread settings and adjust the top as needed.

Your Juki 5550 is a garment sewing machine and if you set the top or bottom tension way too tight, you could damage the machine or break the needles. Set it so you have just enough balanced tension to form tight stitches that lay flat, with the knots pulled well inside the bottom layer. If the top tension is very tight, but the bottom thread is not pulled well into the leather, try changing to a larger needle size. A bigger needle makes a bigger hole and the knots are pulled up with less effort. You may find that if you are ok sewing leather garments with #69 thread and a #18 needle, then try to sew belt leather, a #20 needle will work better.

thanks wizcraft. You have been extremely helpfull and positive. I will play around with the tension this week and hopefully i can dial in my machine. I do plan on upgrading to a better machine some day though

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

well theres no need to get upset. i've always been interested in leather upholstery. i spoke with a local upholstery shop and he advised me to buy an old iron/steel looking sewing machine to sew leather. i checked craigslist locally and came across this machine rather cheap. i found a video of it 'sewing" leather on youtube so i purchased it. I have no problem

with upgrading to a better machine i was just curious if could possibly use this machine. With that in mind what machine do you guys recommend for sewing leather in the

range from uphosletry to 1/4 thick?

Whoa, sorry if I came off as negative or upset in any way. Not my intention at all, and I'm very glad to see you having success with your machine. I'm just trying to be helpful and useful.

[Stocksuspension]

Whoa, sorry if I came off as negative or upset in any way. Not my intention at all, and I'm very glad to see you having success with your machine. I'm just trying to be helpful and useful.

No worries

[Stocksuspension]

Quick question. If I install a roller foot, do I have to install a new lower plate? Also I was playing with the tension and when I attempt to sew the thread on the bobbin doesn't sew tight. It's very loose. Is that my bobbin tension that is to loose or is it my tension?

[Wizcrafts]

Quick question. If I install a roller foot, do I have to install a new lower plate? Also I was playing with the tension and when I attempt to sew the thread on the bobbin doesn't sew tight. It's very loose. Is that my bobbin tension that is to loose or is it my tension?

If you install the flat foot with steel rollers inside it you will not have to change the feed dog or cover plate. If you install the actual big rolling wheel, that replaces the pressor foot, you will need the matching single row feed dog and single slot cover plate. These are usually, but not always, sold as a set online. If you intend to use the machine exclusively for leather garments and chaps, a true roller foot set is a must. The wheels are usually available in two diameters. Get the bigger diameter, which is about 1 inch. Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines sells the roller foot conversion set.

If you are going to sew a variety of projects, including cloth upholstery, go with a flat foot that has inside rollers protruding from the bottom.

As for the poor bottom tension, the cause and answer depends on the type and size of thread you are trying to use, which you did not state. Here are some basics that will affect the bottom stitch appearance.

• If the bottom tension is too loose the knots may appear on the top of the work.
• If the bottom tension is too tight, the knots will appear under the work.
• If the knots are being pulled into the layers, but the stitches are loose on the bottom, too much thread is being released by the bobbin. Tighten the bobbin pressure spring one turn.
• Try reversing the bobbin, so it feeds against the rotation of the shuttle. This is standard practice to avoid bobbins spinning after the machine slows or stops, thus emptying thread into the shuttle without tension.
• Buy a bobbin case that has an "anti-backlash" spring inside it. This cures the previous situation.
• If tightening the bobbin spring cures the loose bottom stitches, but pulls the knots down too far, add top tension until the knots rise inside the layers.

The size of your needle can also affect the placement of the knots. If the needle is too small, knots will tend to be on the bottom. If the needle is too big the knots may appear on or near the top. You want the right size needle that feeds the thread without being too loose or to tight. If the top and bottom thread are the same size and the work is dense, go up one needle size, to account for twice the thread thickness in the knots. If you run out of available needle sizes, go down one size in thread, at least in the bobbin.

One thing you must keep in mind is that you bought a garment sewing machine. It is not designed or provisioned for properly sewing heavy nylon thread into dense leather.

Edited July 22, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[Stocksuspension]

well i got some progress. I took my machine to downtown l.a. to a sewing machine store. I had them install roller foot with plates, new hook, diamond point needle and feed dog. i also had them dial in the tension and basically renew anything that needed to be renewed. i paid 100. was that too much?

[albane]

well i got some progress. I took my machine to downtown l.a. to a sewing machine store. I had them install roller foot with plates, new hook, diamond point needle and feed dog. i also had them dial in the tension and basically renew anything that needed to be renewed. i paid 100. was that too much?

Sounds like you got a Great deal

Did you go to Orange county industrial like I suggested?

My offer still stands if you would like to come for a visit.

Best of luck,

Al

[Stocksuspension]

i did go to orange county industrial good people good service. i actually dropped the machine at a place called atlas levy in downtown la.

[Stocksuspension]

well i was sewing some leather and i got a bunch of excess thread caught in the bobbin case under the feed dogs. i removed the feed dogs and removed all the excess thread. Now when i got to sew it seems like

the feed dogs dont pull in the material. i believe my timing is off. Can i adjust the timing myself or should i take it to a shop?

[Wizcrafts]

well i was sewing some leather and i got a bunch of excess thread caught in the bobbin case under the feed dogs. i removed the feed dogs and removed all the excess thread. Now when i got to sew it seems like

the feed dogs dont pull in the material. i believe my timing is off. Can i adjust the timing myself or should i take it to a shop?

Why don't you take the head back to Atlas Levy and ask to watch the repair man as he resets the timing? That way, you won't have to keep paying them every time you knock out the timing.

[CDragonworks]

Hi I saw this and I wanted to share a great thing I use to teach people to sew...do not thread the machine...practice with it without thread or bobbin until you can control the speed. I advise sew in a quiet place no music or noise and barefoot.... learn to hear and feel the motor. I also suggest before you put any foot pressure on the pedal have your hand on the hand wheel and pull forward gently as you give the motor juice... You may have to do this for a while but use scrap leather to practice control and get a feel for the machine. I had to teach myself on my Singer industrial as I had no one to teach me... but I had been sewing on all other types for years so I learned quick enough... You will learn the sound of the motor starting to pull and you can make the machine walk WAY slower than the controllers will and still have fast when you want it! I do top stitched details on mine with hard curves and such so trust that it can be done.... Have fun!