How Do I Keep Stitching Clean?

[Rawhide]

Marlon,

How does linen stack against nylon in terms of strength. I am one of those using Tandy nylon, primarily because once I get it stitched, it isn't going anywhere. I understand what you are saying about the stretching and it makes sense. Is the linen comparable in diameters, or do you need diferent awls and needles? Thanks for the help.

Terry

I've never used nylon, (I don't think I have anyway.) I can tell you that I have had holes fail before the cord, but over years of hard wear...think saddles and such, linen has been known for dry rotting. I'm pretty sure nylon won't rot on you, but for belts, purses, gun rigs etc.., I would use the linen to get the pretty white stitch. As far as needles and awls, nothing special is required, and the diameters are comparable. For most stitching applications 3-cord, and 5 cord are probably the most used. The only other consideration is the twist direction. There is a school of thought about using left (S) or right (Z) twist cord. I use left with no issues. There is a discussion thread on it here somewhere. I bought left for one reason only, and that is because it can be used in a sewing machine. I've never done so, but that was the reason.

Marlon

[BAD HIDE]

Ok, this is kindof a follow up question. After getting those white stitches in there, how do you keep them that way? I've noticed on things I've carried for only a few months that the stitching got a little fuzzy and dirty in wear areas. When I started, I did all my finishing before assembly, and then nothing on top of that. I've been experimenting with my materials and order in which I do things to see if I can protect my stitching better. I've tried doing my dyeing and 1 coat of acrylic finish before assembly, 2 coats after to go over the stitching and seal it, but wax + water doesn't mix, so I'm doubtful it's really doing anything more than sealing the holes and not the thread. I've also started trying clear-lac in the same 1-2 coat manner, but I've noticed a little dye bleeding into the stitches, especially if I apply with rag or brush - which is usually how I apply finishes.

So what's the professional's method to long lasting white threads?

[Rawhide]

Don't know if this is the proper method or not, but here's how I do it: I completely finish the work, dye, resist, stain, topcoat, etc... all of this is done first. Then I use a channeler (stitch groover), to remove a thread of leather from the workpiece. Then I stitch in this groove. The stitches then sit in this groove, below the surface of the leather to prevent wear and tear. I haven't had much "hard" use of my items so I haven't had them get dirty. I do wax them pretty good, but that's all I do.

Marlon

[unicornleather]

Make sure the ends of the clam you are using are clean, if they are covered in leather they can get grubby and make the leather and stitching dirty. The beeswax on the threads will draw out any dirt, fat and possibly dye from the leather you are stitching and deposit it on the thread too.

Use short lengths of thread instead of one long piece to keep it from starting to get grubby and change it often for a new piece.

I use a clean white cotton cloth over the ends of my clam and clamp my work to be stitched inside it if I am using white or yellow threads.

We used to cheat when stitching in Cordwainers (Saddlery college) on work that was going to be marked for our course work and if we got dirty white threads we'd use a little bit of Tippex correcting fluid on the thread, it made it look like new and we got better marks!

Oz

[Dwight]

Mike, . . . you didn't say what type tools you are using, . . . or at least I didn't see it.

If you are using (what I call a sail needle) the needle kit that has a wooden handle and the little spool of thread, ........ that is the culprit was my experience.

I pitched the spool, . . . use a cut piece of thread that I measure out at least 3 times the length of my stitching, . . . put it through my awl hole, . . . pull half to the other side, . . . and go from there.

With the spool in place, I was keeping the working piece of thread short, . . . and it got dirty quick. I figured it out when the back side was really clean, . . . and the front looked groady and grubby.

Anyway, . . . hope this helps.

May God bless,

Dwight