Beginner Steps

[digitone]

Hello everyone. I am almost done with all the projects in my tandy kit, and looking to learn more. I would love to start cutting my own leather, punching my own holes, etc; however, I do not know where to begin! I eventually want to be able to make cases, wallets, cuffs, belts, etc. I've looked at the "art of making cases" etc at the Tandy store but they seem advanced for my level. Can anyone suggest a great beginner book that contains projects with clear directions etc? I saw in the forum that someone suggested The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects by Valerie Michael. I would like to build a good foundation for leatherworking. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[TwinOaks]

Hi digitone, You are in the right place!!!!!

Welcome to Leatherworker.net.

The Stohlman books are worth every penny you pay for them. Even if you aren't turning out "show piece" quality work, seeing how things are done will improve your understanding. I'd also like to suggest getting Stohlman's 'Tech-Tips', as it shows how some tools are used using illustrations. The layout portion of a project is really something that needs to be experienced rather than viewed. Check with your local Tandy manager about classes- even if it's with Tandy kits, the fundamentals are still the fundamentals. Start small, grasshopper. I'm pretty sure that Michaelangelo didn't start out by asking for a commission to paint the ceiling of the chapel. In the meantime, try every design you can. For practice in designing cases/wallets/etc, I suggest the enormous (under $5) investment of a pack of copy paper and some tape. Draw stuff, cut out shapes and tape it together, see how things fit into the whole......and of course, visit with us. Ask questions, look at the pics here and ask how it's done. We're generally a pretty helpful group of people. Use the search function (because I can't remember where the threads are) and look at the "pinned" topics. There were a few requests on how to make model 'x' wallet, and presto! a pattern shows up. This place really is awesome in that regard. Stick around, I think you'll like it here.

[digitone]

Thank you so much for your help! I haven't had much luck with the search function, but have seen so many cool things while trying to use it! hehe. I've decided to try and make my own belt. I was thinking of using a blank, but would love to cut the leather myself etc. Which leather do you suggest is best for belts? I was looking up the tandy site and saw these double bend calfskins. They do seem quite pricy though. Do you have a personal recommendation on where you buy your leather? Are the pre cut belt straps they offer just as good a quality as buying the skin and cutting it myself? Once again, thank you for all of the help. I always feel so reserved asking, but so many things come into learning this and I always like to do things the correct way the first time around hehe.

Hi digitone, You are in the right place!!!!!

Welcome to Leatherworker.net.

The Stohlman books are worth every penny you pay for them. Even if you aren't turning out "show piece" quality work, seeing how things are done will improve your understanding. I'd also like to suggest getting Stohlman's 'Tech-Tips', as it shows how some tools are used using illustrations. The layout portion of a project is really something that needs to be experienced rather than viewed. Check with your local Tandy manager about classes- even if it's with Tandy kits, the fundamentals are still the fundamentals. Start small, grasshopper. I'm pretty sure that Michaelangelo didn't start out by asking for a commission to paint the ceiling of the chapel. In the meantime, try every design you can. For practice in designing cases/wallets/etc, I suggest the enormous (under $5) investment of a pack of copy paper and some tape. Draw stuff, cut out shapes and tape it together, see how things fit into the whole......and of course, visit with us. Ask questions, look at the pics here and ask how it's done. We're generally a pretty helpful group of people. Use the search function (because I can't remember where the threads are) and look at the "pinned" topics. There were a few requests on how to make model 'x' wallet, and presto! a pattern shows up. This place really is awesome in that regard. Stick around, I think you'll like it here.

[whinewine]

Thank you so much for your help! I haven't had much luck with the search function, but have seen so many cool things while trying to use it! hehe. I've decided to try and make my own belt. I was thinking of using a blank, but would love to cut the leather myself etc. Which leather do you suggest is best for belts? I was looking up the tandy site and saw these double bend calfskins. They do seem quite pricy though. Do you have a personal recommendation on where you buy your leather? Are the pre cut belt straps they offer just as good a quality as buying the skin and cutting it myself? Once again, thank you for all of the help. I always feel so reserved asking, but so many things come into learning this and I always like to do things the correct way the first time around hehe.

As far as leather, you could call Siegel of California or Springfield leather & tell the girls what you want to do. They're very helpful, very knowledgeble(sp?) & they don't bite. Waterhouse Leather also has great specials, too, but I've never called them. All 3 are advertisers on this site- look for the banner ads at the top of the page.

[King's X]

For belts if I am going to line them, which I almost always do, I like the final size to come out around 7-8 ounce. I normally will use a 2-4 ounce lining for my belts. The way I look at it is that I want it to hold up,but I don't want it stiff where it restrict movements. I have a 10 oz belt that I made several years ago (my first or third, cannot remember) and it is stiff as get out, but it is holding up very well. But then again, so have the other 9-10 belts (final size of 8 oz) that I have made too! This is MY preference for belts. Other may tell you difference, it is you that will have to decide. Also, ask your supplier (whomever you choose) about Culattas. I hear that belt makers like this type of cut for belts since you want them from a certain part of the hide.

I hope this helps.

[digitone]

For belts if I am going to line them, which I almost always do, I like the final size to come out around 7-8 ounce. I normally will use a 2-4 ounce lining for my belts. The way I look at it is that I want it to hold up,but I don't want it stiff where it restrict movements. I have a 10 oz belt that I made several years ago (my first or third, cannot remember) and it is stiff as get out, but it is holding up very well. But then again, so have the other 9-10 belts (final size of 8 oz) that I have made too! This is MY preference for belts. Other may tell you difference, it is you that will have to decide. Also, ask your supplier (whomever you choose) about Culattas. I hear that belt makers like this type of cut for belts since you want them from a certain part of the hide.

I hope this helps.

Thank you guys for the help. I've decided to try out the veg-tanned double shoulder from siegel for economical reasons. Being a beginner I know I will make mistakes. I need to practice... so until I get fairly decent, the english bridle and Culattas will have to wait. I am going to try the 8/9 oz for the belts. Hopefully the quality of the leather will be nice enough to be wearable Now I have to determine the size since you can order in 10 sq. ft. portions. Do you guys believe that 10 sq. feet is enough? How many belts can I expect on average to get out of this sized skin? Once again, thank you for the help!

[Mactechbri]

I just got this very book on loan from my local library.

its a quick read. I liked it. I am still trying to accumulate tools for the projects in it.

Bri

[Luke Hatley]

Thank you guys for the help. I've decided to try out the veg-tanned double shoulder from siegel for economical reasons. Being a beginner I know I will make mistakes. I need to practice... so until I get fairly decent, the english bridle and Culattas will have to wait. I am going to try the 8/9 oz for the belts. Hopefully the quality of the leather will be nice enough to be wearable Now I have to determine the size since you can order in 10 sq. ft. portions. Do you guys believe that 10 sq. feet is enough? How many belts can I expect on average to get out of this sized skin? Once again, thank you for the help!

JUST MAKE SURE THE SHOULDER IS LONG ENOUGH FOR BELTS.......

[King's X]

If not.....just stick your other shoulder out to make up the difference!

Just kidding! Luke is right on!

[Thumper]

A good thread going right here with good info in it. Thanks for the reading and learning.!!!

[JLSleather]

Thank you guys for the help. I've decided to try out the veg-tanned double shoulder ...Now I have to determine the size since you can order in 10 sq. ft. portions. Do you guys believe that 10 sq. feet is enough? How many belts can I expect on average to get out of this sized skin? Once again, thank you for the help!

Shoulders will be sold by the sqare foot, so you need to know how long the belts need to be, and then if you know how wide you want them just do the math. A 10' shoulder is pretty small, though they do exist. Figure the hide needs to be the waist size plus about 8" --- so for 44-46" belts, you'd need about 54" wide.

Doing the math, that's 4-1/2 feet, so a 10' shoulder 4-1/2' wide is going to be 27" across, which is 18 1-1/2" wide belts. Keep in mind that with shoulders you're going to have one end slightly narrower than the other, but if you can live with a few belts more like size 32-36 (or a holster or two) you should be fine.

As a rule, I buy shoulders 12+ feet, and I like 'em 14 feet when they're available. At this size, I might just as well buy a side instead of a shoulder, but then I know I'm getting 4-6 feet of belly leather I don't want. The exception (and disclaimer) ... shoulders around here are for carved belts often worn with jeans ... for "heavy use" or extreme carving detail you might stick with sides or backs. By way of example, the belt shown is for a 40" waist, 1-1/2" wide, and cut from an 8/9 shoulder.