Snap Setting

[Vikefan]

I am interested in finding a way to keep my snaps from sliding. I've seen tools from Osborne (Campbell Leather tools website), and they seem as they should work. I set the bottom of a snap 3 times as carefully as I could and it still slid on me. Tandy has a snap setting tool going on sale in the future and that would work but it is very expensive, because you have to pay extra for each size snap you want to use, etc.

Can anyone tell me if they've used these tools from Osborne?

Thank you,

Vikefan

[Dwight]

Vikefan, . . . the best tool for the money I have found can be had at Hobby Lobby (catch em on line too) for about $25. It is a blue handled tool, looks like a pair of pliers sort of, . . . and they only set line 24 snaps. I bought my set a few years ago at Wally World, . . . but they don't carry them now.

May God bless,

Dwight

[ToddB 68]

I am interested in finding a way to keep my snaps from sliding. I've seen tools from Osborne (Campbell Leather tools website), and they seem as they should work. I set the bottom of a snap 3 times as carefully as I could and it still slid on me. Tandy has a snap setting tool going on sale in the future and that would work but it is very expensive, because you have to pay extra for each size snap you want to use, etc.

Can anyone tell me if they've used these tools from Osborne?

Thank you,

Vikefan

Vikefan,

I hadn't thought about the snap parts sliding until I read your post. Looking at the Osborne jig in your attached photo, it appears the purpose of the jig is to keep the setter and anvil perpendicular and in alignment as you strike the setter with a mallet. Unless I'm mistaken, the nose of the setter does the job of keeping the snap parts in alignment throughout the mallet strike. So, when using the setter and anvil "free-hand" there is always the possibility of not holding the setter exactly perpendicular to the snap parts, causing them to slide on impact. Perhaps this would help....... concentrate more on not tilting the setter and perhaps a dab of super glue on the appropriate snap parts to keep them from sliding on impact. Naturally, wait for the glue to dry before proceeding (make sure the parts are stuck good to the leather.) Not to be pushing this product, but Gorilla Super Glue (two small tubes in a card pack) says it is rubber-toughened , which should make it a little thicker and less runny than most super glues , and is advertised for bonding metal, wood, ceramics, most plastics and more. Having never actually attached a snap to leather, I'm trying to visualize the whole process and make suggestions. So please forgive me if none of this makes sense. LOL

I'm new to leatherworking and currently on my very first project..........a tool sheath of my own design from 12oz. Veg-tanned cowhide. The sheath has only two leather parts, a Front and Back. The shape of the Back includes a retainer strap and mating tab for a line 24 Zack White "Buffalo Nickel" snap. According to my phone conversation with the Zack White office, the maximum leather thickness for a line 24 snap is somewhere around 9oz. to 10oz., so I'll have to reduce the leather thickness where the snap parts go with some judicious skiving .

I just ordered a Snap-All Tool Setter Set # 8108 from ZW and (2) of the above mentioned snaps (one extra in case I goof-up.). So I'll be doing my first snap setting before too long !

Hope the first paragraph gives you some help !

Todd

Edited August 31, 2010 by ToddB68

[Vikefan]

Vikefan,

I hadn't thought about the snap parts sliding until I read your post. Looking at the Osborne jig in your attached photo, it appears the purpose of the jig is to keep the setter and anvil perpendicular and in alignment as you strike the setter with a mallet. Unless I'm mistaken, the nose of the setter does the job of keeping the snap parts in alignment throughout the mallet strike. So, when using the setter and anvil "free-hand" there is always the possibility of not holding the setter exactly perpendicular to the snap parts, causing them to slide on impact. Perhaps this would help....... concentrate more on not tilting the setter and perhaps a dab of super glue on the appropriate snap parts to keep them from sliding on impact. Naturally, wait for the glue to dry before proceeding (make sure the parts are stuck good to the leather.) Not to be pushing this product, but Gorilla Super Glue (two small tubes in a card pack) says it is rubber-toughened , which should make it a little thicker and less runny than most super glues , and is advertised for bonding metal, wood, ceramics, most plastics and more. Having never actually attached a snap to leather, I'm trying to visualize the whole process and make suggestions. So please forgive me if none of this makes sense. LOL

I'm new to leatherworking and currently on my very first project..........a tool sheath of my own design from 12oz. Veg-tanned cowhide. The sheath has only two leather parts, a Front and Back. The shape of the Back includes a retainer strap and mating tab for a line 24 Zack White "Buffalo Nickel" snap. According to my phone conversation with the Zack White office, the maximum leather thickness for a line 24 snap is somewhere around 9oz. to 10oz., so I'll have to reduce the leather thickness where the snap parts go with some judicious skiving .

I just ordered a Snap-All Tool Setter Set # 8108 from ZW and (2) of the above mentioned snaps (one extra in case I goof-up.). So I'll be doing my first snap setting before too long !

Hope the first paragraph gives you some help !

Todd

Sorry I took so long to read your reply. I think I have one of those hand snap setters I bought and have never used (JoAnn Fabric).

As for the glue thing.. Cannot really picture it in my head or using glue setting snaps. Sorry.

As for skiving down your leather - have you thought about using a dremel tool to sand a flat area the size of your snap to recess it to work?

Thanks,

Vikefan

Vikefan,

I hadn't thought about the snap parts sliding until I read your post. Looking at the Osborne jig in your attached photo, it appears the purpose of the jig is to keep the setter and anvil perpendicular and in alignment as you strike the setter with a mallet. Unless I'm mistaken, the nose of the setter does the job of keeping the snap parts in alignment throughout the mallet strike. So, when using the setter and anvil "free-hand" there is always the possibility of not holding the setter exactly perpendicular to the snap parts, causing them to slide on impact. Perhaps this would help....... concentrate more on not tilting the setter and perhaps a dab of super glue on the appropriate snap parts to keep them from sliding on impact. Naturally, wait for the glue to dry before proceeding (make sure the parts are stuck good to the leather.) Not to be pushing this product, but Gorilla Super Glue (two small tubes in a card pack) says it is rubber-toughened , which should make it a little thicker and less runny than most super glues , and is advertised for bonding metal, wood, ceramics, most plastics and more. Having never actually attached a snap to leather, I'm trying to visualize the whole process and make suggestions. So please forgive me if none of this makes sense. LOL

I'm new to leatherworking and currently on my very first project..........a tool sheath of my own design from 12oz. Veg-tanned cowhide. The sheath has only two leather parts, a Front and Back. The shape of the Back includes a retainer strap and mating tab for a line 24 Zack White "Buffalo Nickel" snap. According to my phone conversation with the Zack White office, the maximum leather thickness for a line 24 snap is somewhere around 9oz. to 10oz., so I'll have to reduce the leather thickness where the snap parts go with some judicious skiving .

I just ordered a Snap-All Tool Setter Set # 8108 from ZW and (2) of the above mentioned snaps (one extra in case I goof-up.). So I'll be doing my first snap setting before too long !

Hope the first paragraph gives you some help !

Todd

Sorry I took so long to read your reply. I think I have one of those hand snap setters I bought and have never used (JoAnn Fabric).

As for the glue thing.. Cannot really picture it in my head or using glue setting snaps. Sorry.

As for skiving down your leather - have you thought about using a dremel tool to sand a flat area the size of your snap to recess it to work?

Thanks,

Vikefan

[ToddB 68]

Vikefan,

Thanks for your reply !

First I want to correct my first reply.........See the NOTE ! below.

ToddB68

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Vikefan,

I hadn't thought about the snap parts sliding until I read your post. Looking at the Osborne jig in your attached photo, it appears the purpose of the jig is to keep the setter and anvil perpendicular and in alignment as you strike the setter with a mallet. Unless I'm mistaken, the nose of the setter does the job of keeping the snap parts in alignment throughout the mallet strike. So, when using the setter and anvil "free-hand" there is always the possibility of not holding the setter exactly perpendicular to the snap parts, causing them to slide on impact. Perhaps this would help....... concentrate more on not tilting the setter and perhaps a dab of rubber glue on either the snap Cap or Anvil to prevent the Cap from sliding on impact. Naturally, wait for the glue to set before proceeding. Not to be pushing this product, but "Elmer's Rubber Cement" should work and of course there are other brands.

Having never actually attached a snap to leather, I'm trying to visualize the whole process and make suggestions. So please forgive me if none of this makes sense. LOL

NOTE ! : The above high-lighted in blue is an area that I modified from my original reply on August 31, 2010, 1:15 AM and basically just changes the brand and type of glue suggested. Sorry I didn't think about needing to separate the Cap from the Anvil.........Oops ! Hope the new verbiage makes sense now. If not, please let me know.

I'm new to leatherworking and currently on my very first project..........a tool sheath of my own design from 12oz. Veg-tanned cowhide. The sheath has only two leather parts, a Front and Back. The shape of the Back includes a retainer strap and mating tab for a line 24 Zack White "Buffalo Nickel" snap. According to my phone conversation with the Zack White office, the maximum leather thickness for a line 24 snap is somewhere around 9oz. to 10oz., so I'll have to reduce the leather thickness where the snap parts go with some judicious skiving .

I just ordered a Snap-All Tool Setter Set # 8108 from ZW and (2) of the above mentioned snaps (one extra in case I goof-up.). So I'll be doing my first snap setting before too long !

Hope the first paragraph gives you some help !

Todd

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Vikefan,

Good idea on using a Dremel tool for skiving around a snap hole ! Don't know why I didn't think of that before, since I have (4) Dremel kits. One kit I bought myself and later received three more from my father-in-laws estate........he was a professional Carpenter and, as a hobby during retirement, made lots of those wood puzzle-pictures in frames.

Thanks !

ToddB68

Edited September 20, 2010 by ToddB68

[Chief31794]

Vikefan,

Sorry for the late reply was browsing this subject. It is a little pricy but if you do a lot of snaps, well worth the money. I have the device (From Tandy) below and I have a complete set of dies for Line 24, Line 20, Rivets, etc. All total probably have $200-$250 (the dies are about $50 a set). This makes absolute perfect snap/rivit/whatever sets every time. The snaps have a professional look in the at the pin is "rolled" over perfectly all the way around and looks like it was factory done.

Ken

[ToddB 68]

Vikefan,

Sorry for the late reply was browsing this subject. It is a little pricy but if you do a lot of snaps, well worth the money. I have the device (From Tandy) below and I have a complete set of dies for Line 24, Line 20, Rivets, etc. All total probably have $200-$250 (the dies are about $50 a set). This makes absolute perfect snap/rivit/whatever sets every time. The snaps have a professional look in the at the pin is "rolled" over perfectly all the way around and looks like it was factory done.

Ken

Ken,

You are a lucky guy to have a press & die setup like that ! However, being a beginner and still working on my first project, I couldn't justify the cost and will have to stay with inexpensive tools .

Thanks for posting the information though .

Todd

[ShortBBL]

I could be wrong, as I am new to using snaps too... but, is it possible that they slide/move because the post is too long? If the post is longer than ideal.... it has to go somewhere, right? I am guessing there is a certain length that needs to stick through and that we need to trim off the excess before setting.