PensacolaJim Report post Posted September 9, 2010 Exactly what is carve-ease? Has anyone on here used it? Is there a substitute for it? Thank you Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 9, 2010 Jim, I don't care for Carve Ease personally. I have tried it and just don't see much benefit. I get as good a result by adding a few drops of Joy dish soap to my water pan. Sometimes I also will use a piece of trimmed wool skin to apply a light coat of Ivory soap lather (bar) to the surface of my leather before cutting. I think it helps when cutting "sticky" leather. Of course I case my leather when ever I have the opportunity and that does more good than anything else, in my opinion. Hope this helps..... Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted September 9, 2010 I have a bottle of it that's been sitting for over a year. Used it a few times to try it out and like Hidepounder, didn't like it. Might just be me but it seems to leave a light residue that water or water + dishsoap doesn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PensacolaJim Report post Posted September 10, 2010 Jim, I don't care for Carve Ease personally. I have tried it and just don't see much benefit. I get as good a result by adding a few drops of Joy dish soap to my water pan. Sometimes I also will use a piece of trimmed wool skin to apply a light coat of Ivory soap lather (bar) to the surface of my leather before cutting. I think it helps when cutting "sticky" leather. Of course I case my leather when ever I have the opportunity and that does more good than anything else, in my opinion. Hope this helps..... Bobby Thanks for your reply Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted September 20, 2010 I too tried it and didn't like it. I felt like my knife slipped more but not consistently, like it slipped and stopped suddenly. I now use the water/lexol/baby shampoo mixure and like it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vikti Report post Posted September 20, 2010 I've been using Pro-Carve and I'm about to run out and was looking around here for casing solution mixtures because a lady at the Tandy in west Ft. Worth (I think her name was Linda) said that she uses dish soap in her water. Can I use the concentrated dish soaps or does it have to be the regular soaps? Thanks, Damon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 20, 2010 I've been using Pro-Carve and I'm about to run out and was looking around here for casing solution mixtures because a lady at the Tandy in west Ft. Worth (I think her name was Linda) said that she uses dish soap in her water. Can I use the concentrated dish soaps or does it have to be the regular soaps? Thanks, Damon I've been told the difference between the soaps and cannot remmember exactly what they are. Someone will jump in here and explain it to us. However, Joy dishsoap works well and is what I was always told to use. I believe it has a fewer additives and I can tell you that it doesn't affect the color of the leather or your ablility to dye or antique it. I've been using it for a long time. A word of warning. Do not expect the addition of soap to your water to have a huge impact on your ability to cut the leather. The differences are subtle. Some sides have more residual acids and that is what causes them to be difficult to cut. The soap helps to lessen the chattering effect caused by the acids. Hope this helps.... Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Jim, I've been told the difference between the soaps and cannot remmember exactly what they are. Someone will jump in here and explain it to us. However, Joy dishsoap works well and is what I was always told to use. I believe it has a fewer additives and I can tell you that it doesn't affect the color of the leather or your ablility to dye or antique it. I've been using it for a long time. A word of warning. Do not expect the addition of soap to your water to have a huge impact on your ability to cut the leather. The differences are subtle. Some sides have more residual acids and that is what causes them to be difficult to cut. The soap helps to lessen the chattering effect caused by the acids. Hope this helps.... Bobby Jim, there you have it. I liken advice from Bobby, much like the advice I got from Ann Stohlman while she was alive. "It just don't git much better". There are lots of outstanding leather toolers out there, and I rate Bobby right at the top. For me, a little Joy dish soap, water and a table spoon of listerene in the mix (I like the smell) works well. Bondo Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Jim, Jim, there you have it. I liken advice from Bobby, much like the advice I got from Ann Stohlman while she was alive. "It just don't git much better". There are lots of outstanding leather toolers out there, and I rate Bobby right at the top. For me, a little Joy dish soap, water and a table spoon of listerene in the mix (I like the smell) works well. Bondo Bob Bob....I'm really glad you mentioned the Listerene because it's a great tip. I had never heard of using it until Bruce Johnson told me about it. It helps prevent against mold forming on cased leather. I can report that it works very well and whenever I think there is a chance that I might not get to a project right away I definitely add a little Listerine! Good catch Bob! Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted September 20, 2010 The additive Bobby was referring to in the Joy dish soap is Ethylene Glycol. It's used in a number of products as a moisture extender. Simply put, it makes the water wetter for longer because it doesn't evaporate as fast. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whinewine Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Simply put, it makes the water wetter for longer because it doesn't evaporate as fast. Not to be a knowitall, Spinner, but the reason the water is wetter is that a surfactant, such as a detergent (unlike soap) breaks the water's surface tension. When I used to develop my own photographic prints, negatives & transparencies in the darkroom, I used a kodak product called "Photo-flo" to break the surface tension of water in the washing process: otherwise, the prints, slides & negs would dry spotty. russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 20, 2010 The additive Bobby was referring to in the Joy dish soap is Ethylene Glycol. It's used in a number of products as a moisture extender. Simply put, it makes the water wetter for longer because it doesn't evaporate as fast. Not to be a knowitall, Spinner, but the reason the water is wetter is that a surfactant, such as a detergent (unlike soap) breaks the water's surface tension. When I used to develop my own photographic prints, negatives & transparencies in the darkroom, I used a kodak product called "Photo-flo" to break the surface tension of water in the washing process: otherwise, the prints, slides & negs would dry spotty. russ Thanks you guys.....I knew someone a lot smarter than me could tell us why I like Joy soap in my water! I'm saving this so that the next time someone asks me I'll sound like I know what I'm talking about, LOL! Is this forum not the best place to be? Bobby Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spinner Report post Posted September 20, 2010 (edited) Not to be a knowitall, Spinner, but the reason the water is wetter is that a surfactant, such as a detergent (unlike soap) breaks the water's surface tension. When I used to develop my own photographic prints, negatives & transparencies in the darkroom, I used a kodak product called "Photo-flo" to break the surface tension of water in the washing process: otherwise, the prints, slides & negs would dry spotty. russ Thanks Russ, I was simply passing on the information I gathered when this question can up previously. It actually looks like we're both on the right track though. In reading up on it more after your response, it looks to be both things working in concert since without the glycerin additive, the surfacted water simply dries more uniformly (hence the term "Sheeting action") but at a similar rate. Glycerin extends the drying time of liquids due to a higher evaporation point and is also an additive in many detergents & soaps (as well as fog machine liquid, fake tears/sweat and professional bubble blowing mixtures). *Note - I was incorrect about calling it Ethylene Glycol...that's an additive in radiator fluid. LOL Edited September 20, 2010 by Spinner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Thanks Russ, I was simply passing on the information I gathered when this question can up previously. It actually looks like we're both on the right track though. In reading up on it more after your response, it looks to be both things working in concert since without the glycerin additive, the surfacted water simply dries more uniformly (hence the term "Sheeting action") but at a similar rate. Glycerin extends the drying time of liquids due to a higher evaporation point and is also an additive in many detergents & soaps (as well as fog machine liquid, fake tears/sweat and professional bubble blowing mixtures). *Note - I was incorrect about calling it Ethylene Glycol...that's an additive in radiator fluid. LOL Ok, Bobby I know you are at least close to me in age, not sure about the other guys, but; this is beginning to sound like one of those TV commercials from the 50's for joy soap! Whew! Dejaveue! And you are right, great place to be,.....with friends. Bondo Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites