Pigskin Lining

[Dwight]

I have not done a lot with pigskin, and haven't done anything for a couple of years.

BUT, . . . like the old thread said, . . . it works. The key is first getting the contact cement DRY, . . . if you can touch it and feel any sticky or liquidity to it, . . . it is not dry yet. I have a heat gun I use when I'm in a hurry, . . . that will work too. I also think it works better because of the heat, . . . but I don't have anything but my own experience to bolster that.

AFTER it is dry, . . . put em together, . . . put a pillowcase or something similar to that type of material on it, . . . roll it with a rolling pin, . . . and let it set for 6 to 10 hours, . . . by then you will have 99% or so of the bond you are ever going to get.

If you did it correct, . . . the only way it will come apart is where the leather separates internally. The glue will not give way, . . . or at least that has been my experience with contact cement for the last 50 or so years.

Chief and Katsass both make holsters that way, . . . I make a few that way, . . . made one some time back, . . . laughingly call it my spare round. That thing got so hard after molding that it could easily be used as a weapon, itself. It's my "out on the property" holster, . . . no worries about it ever getting hurt.

May God bless,

Dwight

[retiredff]

As always, don't take my word for it, there maybe differences in the contact cement, etc. Try it on a piece of scrap, glue them together, completely dry then soak them as if you were molding and see if the glue bonds well for you.

Chief

I'm just learning and have plenty of veg tan scrap, I'll pickup some cheap pig skin and try this before moving on.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tony