What Type Of Oil For My Class 3 Cobra

[RMB Custom Leather]

Can you use 3 in 1 oil on leather stichers, I have a class 3 cobra? if not why?

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

What does the manual say to use? Cobra Steve should also be able to tell you. what you need.

[Deb59]

What does the manual say to use? Cobra Steve should also be able to tell you. what you need.

The oil that came with my Cobra Class 4 was a Stainless Sewing machine oil. The brand is Fetitsew in a 4 oz bottle with what is called a zoom spout (telescoping spout) I have seen bottles similar to this in most sewing and hobby stores in the sewing section. Hope this helps - Deb

[RMB Custom Leather]

Yea I was just in a pinch and not able to get my hands on a bottle that says "sewing machine oil" I have been told that 3 in 1 would would work just as good. I am sure that the manual says sewing machine oil but I have a feeling that here are several oils out there that one could use. Thanks everyone!

[oldtimer]

Do you think WD 40 would do?

[Wizcrafts]

Do you think WD 40 would do?

NO! Don't ever use WD-40, or 409 on a sewing machine, except to clean the body of the machine, or the table. Also, do NOT use 3 in 1 oil to lubricate any sewing machine. It contains solvents! Only use 3 in 1 oil to loosen junk that builds up in oil holes, or stuck screws, then chase it out with industrial sewing machine or Lily oil. Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines - 866-362-7397 - and every other industrial sewing machine dealer stocks the proper sewing machine oil, in quarts and gallons.

[RMB Custom Leather]

NO! Don't ever use WD-40, or 409 on a sewing machine, except to clean the body of the machine, or the table. Also, do NOT use 3 in 1 oil to lubricate any sewing machine. It contains solvents! Only use 3 in 1 oil to loosen junk that builds up in oil holes, or stuck screws, then chase it out with industrial sewing machine or Lily oil. Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines - 866-362-7397 - and every other industrial sewing machine dealer stocks the proper sewing machine oil, in quarts and gallons.

Thanks for the information. What would the solvents do to the machine? I plan on getting the right oil ASAP but 3 in 1 was better then running it dry.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the information. What would the solvents do to the machine? I plan on getting the right oil ASAP but 3 in 1 was better then running it dry.

The solvents will attack the bronze bearings. Mind you, this will be a slow and imperceptible process. Also, it is heavier than actual sewing machine oil and contains parafin, which can gum up bearings over time. The saving grace is that you have a slow speed sewing machine. If you have a sewing supplies store nearby, like Joann Fabrics, or Hobby Lobby, or a Singer store, Walmart, etc, go there and buy a few 4 ounce bottles of sewing machine oil. When you get a chance, order a quart or a gallon of Lily White Sewing Machine Oil, from an industrial sewing supplier.

Lily White Sewing Machine Oil:

Highly refined, low viscosity and virtually colorless.

Perfect lubricant for Sewing and Embroidery machines.

Also used in cutting machines and other machinery which comes into contact with fabric.

Stains become much less noticeable and easily removed than stains from standard machine oils.

Edited November 22, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[Art]

No No please. 3 in 1 is not great either. Any oil with a carrier that evaporates is just not good, it deposits when the carrier evaporates and builds up over time to GUNK. Standard sewing machine oil is light mineral oil. I don't know what the stainless sewing machine oil is, but it works fine also. You can get that at most sewing stores etc., commonly under the name Dritz. There are also a few extreme condition and high-tech oils that will work very well, but unless your machine is in an unheated shed in Minot North Dakota, it might be a waste. Hydraulic Oil is also a highly refined mineral oil that I have seen mixed 50-50 with standard sewing machine oil (Lilly) for a custom solution by a prominent dealer. The Dritz stuff is clear and stays clear and works fine, it usually comes in a little spout bottle that lasts over a year in daily use. A drop on each oil point every shift is the standard use. Mineral oil will turn golden over time.

Art

Do you think WD 40 would do?

[bruce johnson]

I have been following the drop a day advice and probably heard it from Art back in my early IILG days. I started off with the advice to use a little Prolong oil additive in hydraulic oil. A few years ago they had that whole flap about the super friction fighting, surface binding oil additives not doing what they promised so I'm not sure what it did now. About that time I got some Lily anyway. The Lily is about gone, so guys - more Lily with shipping charges? hydraulic oil I can buy at 10 places along the drive home? Buy some Dritz from the sewing machine guy who practically mugs me out of appreciation for not being a crabby woman who ran over her vacuum cleaner cord again and wants it replaced while she waits?

Now another question that gets to the solvents. I have been using Ballistol to clean my machines for about the same length of time. In regular use, I clean my machines about once a week, taking off plates, remove the hook and shuttle, and looking for gunk. If I am doing repairs, I clean after those for sure. My concern now is that I just willy-nilly spray into the shuttle area and Q-tip/paper towel it out. I add a few drops of oil to the race and dab a little on the bobbin case. Any thoughts or advice there?