Satin Sealer Over Pro Oil Black

[jasonsmith]

I'm going to be making an armband with a bunch of pyramid studs and grommets. I plan to dye both the inside and outside to give it a finished look. I've got some 6 oz. natural leather from Tandy's.

I plan to use Fiebing's dye prep, and then dye it with Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. I would like to see what would be recommended for a satin sealer that will keep the dye from running and protect it? I don't want super gloss, but something more than matte.

I was looking to use Fiebing's Resolene. But wonder if it may be too shinny. I'm going to order my dye, prep, and sealer online. It is a small project, so I don't need quarts. I do already have some Eco Flo Super Shene.

Edited December 4, 2010 by jasonsmith

[jasonsmith]

Does anyone know of any other leather forums that is better than this one with regards to discussing dyes and sealers?

I was planning on placing an order already for the Pro Oil Black dye, Prep seal, and what ever else I needed. I just don't plan on waiting for months to figure this out.

Thanks

[Spence]

Be patient and look through the thread dealing with dyes and finishes, if the answer to your questions is not there, I'd be surprised. I've never felt that my questions were not answered here. BTW, I'm sorry I don't have the experience and expertise to answer your questions.

As to another forum, yes there is at least one. Is it better? I doubt it because most of the folks you find here are over there also (I don't have the link).

[jasonsmith]

Be patient and look through the thread dealing with dyes and finishes, if the answer to your questions is not there, I'd be surprised. I've never felt that my questions were not answered here. BTW, I'm sorry I don't have the experience and expertise to answer your questions.

As to another forum, yes there is at least one. Is it better? I doubt it because most of the folks you find here are over there also (I don't have the link).

I am pretty patient. But have noticed alot of threads here seem to get a ton of views, but very few replys. As in 5. So, I was planning on ordering something already to finish up my project and didn't want months to go by.

I have looked around and the only thing I saw with regards to satin sealer. Was that Angelus sells a satin sealer. Whether it is any good or not, who knows. But I'll keep searching. But I found their satin sealer ends up looking like gloss. So, if I got that, then I'd look at Matte even though I've read it ends up looking gloss.

I have read about Bag Kote. But don't know how good that will seal compared to the acrylic sealers.

So, at this point it is still just a crapshoot of what to get. I'm leaning towards Angelus Matte sealer.

I was planning on Fiebings pro oil black. But have read that Angelus dye is easier to work with. But they have like 5 different blacks. So, if I went with Angelus black dye, then I'd have to figure out what black to get. I did see someone made a sheath and dyed it Fiebing pro oil black with a leather sheen as the sealer. I really like the look of the black:

[RobDude30]

I use Fiebings USMC Black - no experience with the Angelus stuff, though I hear it is good. I use Resolene as a finish on all of my projects. A few light coats applied with a damp sponge, with drying time in between coats. I then polish with Kiwi shoe polish (most of the time in natural) to cut a tad of the shine. I usually end up with a fairly nice finish that is not too shiny, IMHO, and is colorfast.

With black, you need to rub off the excess dye pigment before finishing. After the dye has had time to dry, you rub with a clean cloth until your arm hurts, then rub some more, then keep rubbing. And then rub some more. And keep rubbing. And then, you guessed it, rub a little more.

Experimentation is key in finding what process works well for you and what you are trying to accomplish. Good luck!

[jasonsmith]

I use Fiebings USMC Black - no experience with the Angelus stuff, though I hear it is good. I use Resolene as a finish on all of my projects. A few light coats applied with a damp sponge, with drying time in between coats. I then polish with Kiwi shoe polish (most of the time in natural) to cut a tad of the shine. I usually end up with a fairly nice finish that is not too shiny, IMHO, and is colorfast.

With black, you need to rub off the excess dye pigment before finishing. After the dye has had time to dry, you rub with a clean cloth until your arm hurts, then rub some more, then keep rubbing. And then rub some more. And keep rubbing. And then, you guessed it, rub a little more.

Experimentation is key in finding what process works well for you and what you are trying to accomplish. Good luck!

I'm looking at going with Angelus black. I'm waiting on them to get back with me so I can figure out what the difference is between their 4 different blacks.

I've read you don't have to buff the Angelus as much compared to the Fiebing's. Some say they weren't able to quit buffing the Fiebing's. Since this is my first time dying. I figured Angelus would be better since it appears to be easier to work with.

And I plan on getting the Angelus Matte and Satin sealer to do test pieces on to figure which one I like better. As I've read their Satin can look gloss. I guess it depends on how thick you put it on.

Any tips on dying the flesh side of the leather? I'm assuming that is the same as doing the grain side where you buff it then apply the sealer? I would like to clean up all the frays on the bottom and side of the leather.

I'm making some large armbands that will tie up down the inside of the forearm via grommets. Should I rub anything on the leather after I dye it to soften it up so it would bend around the arm better? The leather seems pretty stiff as it is, and I figure it would get stiffer after dying it.

[terrymac]

It is my experience that leather will become more supple after using an oil based dye. You are actually putting oil back into the leather. Have never used Angelus, so I can't tell you about it. If you want to do the edges right, go to the "How do I Do It" section of the Forum and find a thread by Hidepounder (Bob Park) on doing edges. If you will follow his advice, I'll guarantee they will come out professional.

Terry

[RobDude30]

I'm looking at going with Angelus black. I'm waiting on them to get back with me so I can figure out what the difference is between their 4 different blacks.

I've read you don't have to buff the Angelus as much compared to the Fiebing's. Some say they weren't able to quit buffing the Fiebing's. Since this is my first time dying. I figured Angelus would be better since it appears to be easier to work with.

And I plan on getting the Angelus Matte and Satin sealer to do test pieces on to figure which one I like better. As I've read their Satin can look gloss. I guess it depends on how thick you put it on.

Any tips on dying the flesh side of the leather? I'm assuming that is the same as doing the grain side where you buff it then apply the sealer? I would like to clean up all the frays on the bottom and side of the leather.

I'm making some large armbands that will tie up down the inside of the forearm via grommets. Should I rub anything on the leather after I dye it to soften it up so it would bend around the arm better? The leather seems pretty stiff as it is, and I figure it would get stiffer after dying it.

You dye the flesh side just the same. You can use some gum trag and something to burnish with to smooth it out some. Take the advice form terrymac and follow Hidepounder's sticky for the edges. Add some neatsfoot oil to the leather to help soften it.

[jasonsmith]

You dye the flesh side just the same. You can use some gum trag and something to burnish with to smooth it out some. Take the advice form terrymac and follow Hidepounder's sticky for the edges. Add some neatsfoot oil to the leather to help soften it.

I think I'm gonna leave the edges alone. Just dye it. As I don't want shinny edges like the look of the edges in that thread. The only thing I was looking at was getting rid of any fray. But I'd much rather leave it like it is than have a shinny edge.

I'm probably looking at using that Preval or a spray gun to dye it. I think that would be the easiest and not worry so much about streaks. Though I saw in my Tandy book, they recommended spraying dye for solid colors but said that it didn't apply for black. I don't know if they feel spraying black wouldn't turn out good, or if they feel you can get by with rubbing it in.

[jasonsmith]

It is my experience that leather will become more supple after using an oil based dye. You are actually putting oil back into the leather. Have never used Angelus, so I can't tell you about it. If you want to do the edges right, go to the "How do I Do It" section of the Forum and find a thread by Hidepounder (Bob Park) on doing edges. If you will follow his advice, I'll guarantee they will come out professional.

Terry

Actually, I'm thinking about going with Angelus black instead of the Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. As I've read you don't have to buff the Angelus much compared to the Fiebings. Since I'm new to this, I figure the Angelus would be easier to work with. I'm just waiting on them to get back with me to tell me what the differences are in their 4 different blacks.