RobDude30

Thanks Itch. I figured as much but thought I would ask. I've got a pretty close match on veg tan using a mix of dyes and will probably stick with that to make my prototypes.

I am in search of a source for oil tanned leather, 5/6 oz. or so, that will match the tan color on the new Indian Motorcycle. I've found a thread or two recommending Waterhouse leather and The Leather Guy, but would like to find the real deal if possible. Anyone know THE source for Indian Motorcycle leather?

Thanks! Its from Tandy. Not bad quality actually.

Following are a few long wallets that I have recently completed. Celtic Cross Red Skull with premade interior Stars Poison

I hand stitch everything visible in my finished work and almost always use a contrasting color thread, so I like to keep my thread clean as well. I use Resolene as a final finish nearly exclusively. My stitching is always done next to last. After dying, I buff, buff, buff as usual, then apply a couple light coats of Resolene with drying time in between. I put on enough coats until I have no more transfer of color into the sponge that use to apply the Resolene. Usually two gets the job done. I stitch, then apply one final light coat of Resolene just to seal the holes made when stitching. YMMV

I recently ordered a Douglas slim and ran into the same problem you did. That thing is HUGE for something advertised as slim. I just ordered a size 0 from Barry King and although it is still not quite as small as I would like, it works just fine for the 8 spi stitching that I do.

All great ideas! Thanks!

I've recently started buying better quality tools and just can't make myself hang them on the peg board with the metal hangers that I have always hung my Tandy tools on. I'm afraid that I will scratch them or dull them. LOL! After all, these things cost a lot of money. All of my tools are users, meaning that i use them for my leatherwork, but i do want to treat them well while they are just hanging around. I guess my question is, how do your store your tools? How do you store your stitching awls to protect the blades? I've seen some use a wine cork, but have wondered if there is residual chemical in the cork that might react badly with the metal. Am I being too anal?

Here's the picture. Looks like HR or maybe AN. Look familiar?

It does appear to have some lettering inside of one of the jaws - forgot to mention that earlier. Attached is a picture of that lettering. The letters are covered by what I guess is pitch??, but it is flaking off. I want to try to remove that so I can read what is underneath. It looks like the horse was varnished or otherwise sealed with something at one time. What might that have been when this was new? Can you recommend any good books or other resources? I would like to restore it as it would have been, still thinking that I will use it. Thanks everyone for the responses!

Thanks for the responses! That's probably what I am going to do. Surprisingly it is very sturdy. No wobbles or loose parts at all. The wooden screws under the seat are seized up. I am carefully working on getting those loose.

Couple more pictures: And a couple more:

Hello All, I have been searching for a good stitching horse to use and ran across this one yesterday at an antique show. It is very sturdy and appears to have been well used in the trade. It has an adjustable seat that can be swung out to the side. The big screws under the seat are made of wood and the big nut holding the seat on is also wood. Everything is in tact except that the leather strap is broken and a few tacks are missing here and there. It looks like the seat was recovered a couple of times as there are what I think are the original tacks as well as some newer brass tacks on the remaining seat cover. The jaws are of the straight variety and have what I think are brass plates on them, so I am assuming that this is a harness maker's bench. I was told that this was probably from the 1850's or so, but have no idea. I just thought it was a very cool looking piece and that it was in good enough condition to use. I want to clean and preserve the wood and metal parts, replace the broken leather strap and get it into working order. However, I would like to learn what I have before I touch it just in case it might be valuable. I would hate to ruin a nice piece of history. I am just starting to research to see what I can find out about it and wanted to ask for your help. Any ideas what I have? Are there any good resources; books, websites, etc. that I should be looking at?

It holds about 10 on each side. The pockets will stretch a little over time. Thanks! Thank you! Probably so. I love using contrasting thread colors on everything, though. I hate it when a customer wants a black holster with black thread, however I will oblige. :-)

I just opened a quart of Resolene I bought probably 2 years ago. It still had the foil seal intact. Upon opening, it seemed much thicker than I think it should be so I tried shaking it really well. No change. I used it on a holster and other than still being really thick it seemed to work fine. Is the bottle ruined or can I do something to save it?

I nearly always use a light colored Irish linen thread in all my projects and don't have any problems with it picking up dye, even when using USMC black. I stitch as the second to last step, after letting the dye dry at least overnight and applying a couple of coats of Resolene to stabilize the finish. I haven't used any pre-dyed leather, but maybe if you applied a couple coats of your favorite finish before stitching it might help??

My basic method for holsters is as follows: cut, rough mold, glue, detail mold, edge, dye, 2 light coats of acrylic, stitch, final light coat of acrylic, polish with Kiwi neutral. The sealing after the dye prevents any dye getting on the stitching. The final coat of acrylic seals the stitching holes. The polish actually dulls the finish to keep it from looking "plastic". I hand stitch with waxed Irish linen, usually 7-cord on holsters.

I'm far from an expert, but I use Dwight's method almost exclusively for new designs as well and it has worked for me. I make mainly pancake style holsters with a molded front and a flat back. IMHO, the flat back makes the holster more comfortable to wear and leaves a little room for stretching if the holster happens to be too tight upon initial fit.

I can't offer much help as I am just a hobbiest, but I just had to say beautiful work!

I use a Dremel as well with a wooden wheel to get started, then I finish by hand with some heavy canvas. This has worked out very well for me. I would venture a guess that you would want to use the wooden wheel with your machine.

Thanks guys! I have some pig, but it is Tandy's cheap stuff and almost feels like plastic. I've been using it for wallet interiors. I think I need to get some of the better grade pig if I plan on using it as a non-marring lining. I do have some nice veg sheepskin that is very soft. Do you think that would be suitable?

I know that a lot of folks don't like the "plastic" look and feel of Resolene, but it does a very good job of sealing the leather from damage caused by moisture. In my experience, if it looks like plastic when you are done, then you have applied too much Resolene. I have been unable to find anything that works better for me. The technique I use is as follows: I apply several VERY light coats of Resolene using a damp sponge, with plenty of drying time in between coats. I dampen the sponge, hold it over the top of the bottle of Resolene, and give the bottle a quick upward shake. This gets very little Resolene on the sponge. I also wash the sponge out between coats. This method results in very little Resolene being applied at once. Once I have several coats on the piece, I allow it to dry overnight. The next day I buff the entire piece well with one or two very light coats of Kiwi Neutral shoe polish. This method produces a light satin sheen and provides a good degree of protection. YMMV.

What type of material are y'all using to line cell phone and tablet PC cases that won't scratch or allow the finish to rub off of the devices? Just searching around the site, I've seen some use felt and some use a soft leather. Are these the best things to use?

Looks great! I bought a tablet for my wife for Christmas and want to make her a case for it. Did you line yours with anything to reduce the chance of scratching the tablet?

Awesome! Glad somebody sees it.