RobDude30

Very nice! Looks like a good, functional design. I got an LED flashlight for Christmas and need to make a pouch for mine as well.

I can confirm that the G36 mag will not fit in a pouch tightly molded for a G22 mag. The G36 mag (single stack) is somehow fatter than the G22 (double stack). One other little nugget that may or may not be of any help - I made a couple of mag pouches recently for my CZ 75 Compact 9mm 14-round mag and a coworkers G22 (.40 cal), and though the G22's mag was just slightly thicker, the same pattern worked fine for both.

Here's the holster that I have been working on today. My edges are getting better. I'm pretty happy with this one. Not as smooth as it should be, but some of my better work none the less. This was done using mostly Bobby's method (glycerin and saddle soap) with some beeswax rubbed in as the last step. Excuse the crappy cell phone pic.

I'm probably a little backwards from everyone else. I'm just starting out and trying to figure all of this stuff out as well. On a pancake holster, I always do an initial molding of the leather before I put the pieces together. The next step I do is to mark and glue the pieces, then after some drying time for the glue, I will do some more molding. Only after I have the molding done, will I lay out the stitch lines. At this point, I can easily follow the outline of the gun and can adjust the stitching to tighten up the retention if I need to. I always stitch last. I use colored linen threads a lot and this method helps to keep the thread clean as well. May be upside down, backwards, and completely wrong, but has worked for me.

I like Resolene and use it on all of my projects. The method I use to apply it is with a lightly damp sponge and a tiny amount of Resolene. I apply the Resolene in this manner in several very light coats, allowing time to dry in between coats. Rub over it lightly with the damp sponge and you won't have any streaking. This gives a very good finish that is not too plastic-looking nor too shiny, IMHO. I usually also rub on a coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish on top, after the Resolene has dried completely, to give it even more of a mellow glow. Works good for me.

Definitely listen to the guys above as there is a lot of experience talking there. I tried the eco dyes and finishes when I was first starting out and never had any luck making even a half decent looking project with it. I could never get a finish that was colorfast and wouldn't rub off. I started using the Fiebing's alcohol and pro oil dyes and have never looked back. I also tried the gum trag in the beginning. While it does do the job, you can get a much better looking and lasting edge by using Bobby's method. I still occasionally use gum trag on the flesh side of some of my projects if I need to smooth it out. Back to your original question: I have always cut out the parts, put them together, molded/tooled if necessary, roughed in my edges by sanding to get them shaped and even, then dyed the item, then burnished and finished the edges last. However, I am working on a project right now that I have burnished my edges prior to dyeing. This is the first time I have done it this way and I will let you know how it turns out. I'm curious to see what happens. I always seem to get the dye all over my hands and burnishing tools and cloths when dying first so I thought I would try it this way in an attempt to keep everything clean. BTW as the last steps in my process, I apply a couple of light coats of acrylic finish, then stitch, then apply one last light coat of finish. I usually use a contrasting color of waxed linen thread, and this order of things helps to keep the thread clean. YMMV

Exactly what Luke said. All I can add is that as you apply the firm pressure, go very slowly while you roll out the design.

Feibing's mahogany has a red tint. You can probably thin it some to bring out more of the red.

LOL! I know what you mean.

It may take a while and a ton of effort, but it sure is purdy when you get done. Great job!

I use #1 darner needles with a 7-cord Irish waxed linen thread and an Osborne medium-sized awl. I prefer the waxed linen thread because I like the look and I like the larger size on heavier items like belts and holsters. I also like the idea that linen is a natural thread and it kind of goes along with the theme of handmade items made with all natural materials. I get my needles from Colonial Needle and thread from Royalwood, Ltd. If you have a Tandy near by, get a roll of their waxed linen thread and some of the egg eye needles they sell. The needles are a little large, but they are fine for when you are just beginning to learn to sew. I still use the large needles and Tandy thread on some of my projects. Also, get the Stohlman book on hand sewing while you are at it. It is an invaluable guide when first starting out.

Use a dauber on the crease like mentioned above, but use very light coats of dye until you get the right color blended in. In my experience with the reds and greens (Fiebing's pro oil dyes) the color will lighten up some as it dries over a couple of days. Merry Christmas!!

Very nice work! The interiors look great as well.

I like the look of the larger cord on the heavier items (holsters, sheaths). As BAD HIDE said it fills the stitching groove better. I usually sew my larger items at 6 SPI with a 7 ply waxed linen cord.

In my limited experience, the linen thread seems more durable and longevity seems better. I've made a few pocket items (business card holders and wallets) using hemp that I waxed myself with beeswax and the hemp has quickly become worn looking. Could be my technique or the hemp may have been of low quality (Wal Mart). YMMV

Just a little to add to what the folks above said - On soft, thin leathers that don't take a groove very well, I use my adjustable creaser or a ball point stylus against a straight edge to mark a faint line, then carefully follow that line with my stitching wheel to mark the holes. I have a mark on my awl handle so that I keep the same side up on every hole. You wouldn't think this would matter, but it does. Also, as someone mentioned above, always pass the needles through the holes in the same order and keep the thread on the same side every time. I always push the needle through from the back first, then the front. I sew toward myself and, with the way I hold my awl, the thread that comes through from the rear lays on the bottom of the stitch, while the thread that passes through from the front ends up on top, every time. The key is consistency and lots of practice, practice, practice. My stitching is nowhere near perfect, but I have a method that works for me and it is getting better all the time.

Just made a few of these with our company logo for Christmas gifts for the guys at work. Calf outside, sheepskin interior lining, and a calf pocket. Done in Fiebings Pro saddle tan, with green and black accents. Hand sewn with green waxed linen thread. Let me know what you think.

Black is easy enough to get even color without spraying. You may be right on the Angelus. I think I'll order a bottle next time I run out. Let us know how it works.

I use a creaser while the card case is still damp from dye, fold it over and then use a small wooden wallpaper roller to press it down. You have to be careful while rolling as you can put some unwanted marks in the leather, though.

You dye the flesh side just the same. You can use some gum trag and something to burnish with to smooth it out some. Take the advice form terrymac and follow Hidepounder's sticky for the edges. Add some neatsfoot oil to the leather to help soften it.

I use Fiebings USMC Black - no experience with the Angelus stuff, though I hear it is good. I use Resolene as a finish on all of my projects. A few light coats applied with a damp sponge, with drying time in between coats. I then polish with Kiwi shoe polish (most of the time in natural) to cut a tad of the shine. I usually end up with a fairly nice finish that is not too shiny, IMHO, and is colorfast. With black, you need to rub off the excess dye pigment before finishing. After the dye has had time to dry, you rub with a clean cloth until your arm hurts, then rub some more, then keep rubbing. And then rub some more. And keep rubbing. And then, you guessed it, rub a little more. Experimentation is key in finding what process works well for you and what you are trying to accomplish. Good luck!

I know next to nothing first hand about shoe making, but there is a very tough leather that, I believe, has been compressed and is called sole bends or something similar. Maybe a search on those terms will help you out.

I've played around with all three methods and find that folded and glued works best for me. When I folded and stitched the edges it looked very nice, but the credit cards would sometimes catch on the stitching and were hard to insert in the slots. The cards would also sometimes stick to the thread (waxed linen) and become hard to remove from the slots. If you were to use a very fine poly thread with no wax, it might work well?? Just my experience and some rambling - YMMV. Be sure and post your results what ever you try.

Thanks for the kind words!

I've been using waxed linen on all of my projects. I like the look and it is plenty strong. I use a 7 cord on my holsters and belts. The stuff that Tandy sells in the small rolls works well with their large egg eye needles (some folks might disagree with me here). Since the rolls that Tandy sells are so small, I have started ordering waxed Irish linen thread from royalwoodltd.com. They have a lot of colors to choose from as well.