RobDude30

I've done something similar on a few small items. My technique involves using a very thin line of contact cement on the inside edge (flesh to flesh), then making the roll around the edge and sewing through all layers. It does not turn out exactly like Kevin's as the stitching goes through the roll from the front and back, but it makes a neat looking finish without having to sew the perimeter twice by hand. What ever leather you use needs to be thin and stretchy if you plan to go around some curves.

I do. Make me an offer. It is just sitting on my shelf collecting dust.

I have a 60" long aluminum ruler and a heavy duty snap-off blade knife that I use to get the first straight cut. I use a fresh section of blade and hold the ruler steady with heavy pressure from my left hand and right knee while I make the cut with my right hand. Works just fine as long as the ruler doesn't slip.

The "correct way" (if there is such a thing) according to the Stohlman book and other old timers is to keep the thread no longer than 6' which would be roughly your arm's reach when sewing. However, I like to cut my thread long enough to do the entire project because I don't like the look you get when having to start a new piece in the middle of a project. As a rule of thumb, I measure the running length of the section I want to sew, and cut my thread a little more than 4 times the length of that measurement. On longer items, such as belts, tangling can be a problem, but I usually sew standing at my workbench and just let the excess thread hang to the floor. I have also heard of folks saying that very long lengths of thread can get worn when pulling through so many holes, but in my experience the only sections that get really worn are the ends where you are handling them. This part usually gets cut off and thrown in the trash anyway. YMMV.

Take a look at hidepounder's tutorial on edge finishing. In short, if you will burnish your edges before dying with a contrasting color, you can get a much neater edge. Using a hard felt like Ellen mentioned will give you more control over the application of the dye. I use a the edge of a felt wheel that came with my Dremel tool (by hand, not in the tool) and Fiebing's USMC black with good results. Practice and a steady hand also help.

I've made a total of two of what I would call gun belts, so I'm no expert. However, with that being said, one of these belts I have been wearing daily for probably close to a year with some sort of a pancake or avenger style holster on it and it has served me very well. I made it with two layers of 7/8 oz, 1 1/2" wide, cemented flesh-side to flesh-side, and hand sewn with natural-color Tandy waxed linen thread (I like the look of the larger thread on heavy belts). The belt is dyed a dark mahogany on the outside and the natural thread makes a nice contrast. I kept the inside of the belt as clean as I could and left it natural. Both sides are sealed with Resolene. There are many ways to skin a cat and you will likely get some different answers. Some folks like to use different weights of leathers - heavy weight on the outside and lighter weight for the lining on the inside. I just used two straps of the same weight because that's what I had at the time. From my research on this site and others, somewhere around a 1/4" thick is what you are after for a relatively heavy gun.

LOL! I could probably do one of those, too. I actually made this as a gift for a friend. If it were mine, I would have put a GT on it in yellow and black. Thanks everyone for the kind words!

Thanks Ken!

Thanks Kate. I think I could have moved the light a little farther back to get rid of the glare as well. As with everything, it will take a little practice to get it right!

My particular Glock is the subcompact model (in case you're not familiar with the 36), and I could actually get a pretty good grip on it before cutting the front of the holster down some. It only needed a little to get a full grip without touching leather. I too have the habit of keeping my trigger finger completely straight until I'm ready to fire. TwinOaks is dead on with the process. Just make sure your leather isn't too wet. It won't hold the shape very well if it is. I usually run the leather under the tap for just a bit, then set it aside a few minutes until some of the original color has returned. I then continue working on the details as the leather dries. It does require a good deal of practice to get a nice look. There are much nicer holsters on here than mine, but I'm getting better.

Thanks for the comments. I cut the front of the pattern down just a little bit. The back already felt good, but the high front did get in the way just a tad.

Yep. You are correct!

I spent the afternoon yesterday making a light box from a cardboard box and a frosted shower curtain. I should have done this a long time ago. Now I need to learn to use my camera and make some really nice shots. BTW, I have about $5 in the light box and another $4 in a CFL daylight light bulb. It's not pretty, but it works well. Here's a pic taken with my Droid 1 phone using the lightbox. A good camera and someone that knows how to use it would probably take some awesome pics. The bad thing about the lightbox is it really allows the flaws in my leatherwork to be seen! Bad photography hides some of the defects. LOL!

I use denatured alcohol. It takes care of most cleaning/deglazing jobs. Oxalic acid works better if you need to remove some stubborn stains.

I'm kinda proud of this one. I've been working hard on my stitching and finally improving a little - nowhere near perfect but I'm getting some good practice in at least. Cow outside and pockets, sheepskin lining, mission pig "G" on the front. Hand sewn with red and black Irish linen thread. Dyed with Fiebings Pro Oil dyes and finished with Resolene. Let me know what you all think.

Particle, Have you seen this post? Clicky Here. BanjoMan recently made a badge holder and he may be able to help. Rob

Hey Randy, Just curious - does the Fabric Tac stay flexible? Like if it were used to glue a cloth liner into a wallet bill pocket, would it be soft or would it stiffen the wallet? I've heard a few people mention the product, but have never tried it myself. Always looking for something "better". Thanks! Rob

Also, one other thing to add about the contact cement - make sure you are letting it set until it is nearly dry to the touch before you stick the two pieces together. The pieces will bond immediately on contact (hence the name) and will make a permanent bond that will tear the leather before the cement comes apart.

I really like that style as well, but those HUGE stitching holes and tiny thread kind of ruin the look for me. Just my opinion - what do I know?? I have had good luck finding brass and nickel rings of varying sizes at my local ACE Hardware store. They have both the solid and the split types of rings.

I, too, use the Tandy kit you mentioned with good success as I only set a few snaps now and then. One other tip I can add is to make sure that you rotate the tool around in a circular motion as you tap the rivet several times. Don't hit it too hard either or you will deform the snap and make it very hard to clasp together. I use a medium weight rawhide mallet and tap fairly lightly. As the others have said, if you plan to set a lot of snaps, the good tools are probably money well spent.

Contact cement seems to be the glue of choice for most of the jobs. Use it when you can as it will generally make the strongest bond. From most of the research I have done when it comes to gluing cloth to leather, if the cloth is very thin and soaks up the contact cement, you have a couple of choices: Some folks apply contact cement only to the leather, let it mostly dry, then attach the cloth. Other folks use spray adhesive on both the cloth and leather, let it set for a minute or two, then stick together. I use both methods depending on what I am making. You will have to use some trial and error to see what works for you. If the cloth is thick or has a backing, use contact cement. Again, trial and error to see what works for your project. FYI, the best spray glue I have found is the 3M branded Super 77 or Hi-Strength 90. They both will dry completely. Some other brands (like Duro) will stay tacky forever and can leach through thin cloth making it sticky. Read the label before you buy.

This is my first attempt with a new G36 holster pattern I've been working on. I know I need to work on the stitch lines really badly. And I need a light box because my pictures stink. Other than that, what do you think?

I use the same awl, but use a stitching pony and push it through the leather by hand. I only use about the first 1" or less of the blade though because the hole would be way to big using the entire blade. Using my method, if I happen to slip and push the blade too far in, I get a big ugly hole. I can see where your method would work much better with the bigger awl. I may try filing mine down some more in the middle to make it more even in width over the length of the blade. Thanks for the reply!!!!

I noticed in another post that you use the small rolls of Tandy waxed linen thread and their egg eye needles. I do the same as I like the way the thread looks on holsters and other larger items. The problem I have is that I have been using the humongous Tandy awl that comes in the kit, and while I have honed it down some and only use the first inch or so of it, I would like to find an awl that is a better match size-wise for this thread combination. So, may I ask which awl are you using? I also had the same problem as you about wanting larger rolls of the waxed linen thread. I have started purchasing my Irish waxed linen thread from Royalwood, Ltd. They have it in various cord sizes and the larger one is very close to the size of the Tandy thread. It comes in much larger spools and in many different colors. Thought you might be interested in that. Thanks! Rob

I agree. That is very interesting! Not something that would necessarily fit in with my normal wardrobe, but I like it none the less. Good job!