Satin Sealer Over Pro Oil Black

[RobDude30]

Black is easy enough to get even color without spraying. You may be right on the Angelus. I think I'll order a bottle next time I run out. Let us know how it works.

[jasonsmith]

Black is easy enough to get even color without spraying. You may be right on the Angelus. I think I'll order a bottle next time I run out. Let us know how it works.

Yeah, I've thought that black would be easier to get even vs. another color. The other thing is you'd probably loose some dye every time you spray since you have to pour it in the large container of spray gun. I think that was one advantage of the Preval since you could keep it in the small jar with a lid and not waste any.

Angelus is sending me some samples including their prep and deglazer. So, I'll dye some test pieces by hand to see what that does before I pick up a sprayer. They've got 4 different blacks.

I've got some Fiebings black edge dye applicator that I brushed on the backside of some leather. And that seemed to work with no buffing with regards to dying the flesh side. Only thing is it is kinda shiny, which I'd like more of a matte finish for the back. I'll try the Angelus and matte sealer on the back and see what that does. Though the Fiebings stuff was easy to use as there was no buffing and it is waterproof so you don't have to worry about rub off on your arm with regards to dying the back.

[Ellen]

Aren't Angelicus dyes acrylic? Fiebing's Pro-Oil is spirit based, and used for everything leather with very good results. It's not shiny by itself, if you use Satin Shene as a finish it will be not glossy.

When dyeing a flesh side, go along the fibers, not against them. Or spray. Flesh side better to seal with Resolene.

Bag Cote is much weaker sealer than acrylics (Resolene, Angelicus, Supe[ and Satin Shene). If you have it, finish a scrap pieces of leather with Bag Cote and, another, with any acrylic finish. Let it dry. Then drop or spay some water on them and see results by yourself.

Edge should be well sealed anyway, or it will stain the wearer. Gum Tracagant with wet slicking but without burnishing allows you to keep edge smooth but not glossy. Finish it with acrylic anyway.

[jasonsmith]

Aren't Angelicus dyes acrylic? Fiebing's Pro-Oil is spirit based, and used for everything leather with very good results. It's not shiny by itself, if you use Satin Shene as a finish it will be not glossy.

When dyeing a flesh side, go along the fibers, not against them. Or spray. Flesh side better to seal with Resolene.

Bag Cote is much weaker sealer than acrylics (Resolene, Angelicus, Supe[ and Satin Shene). If you have it, finish a scrap pieces of leather with Bag Cote and, another, with any acrylic finish. Let it dry. Then drop or spay some water on them and see results by yourself.

Edge should be well sealed anyway, or it will stain the wearer. Gum Tracagant with wet slicking but without burnishing allows you to keep edge smooth but not glossy. Finish it with acrylic anyway.

What Satin Shene do you refer to? I tried the Angelus Matte and Satin, and it looks the same. Shiny. But I'm probably not going to worry about it.

I plan on spraying the dye on both sides with a Preval. How do you buff the flesh side to remove excess dye?

And what do you think of spraying the sealer on with the Preval?

I figured out what I messed up on when putting the sealer on. I rubbed it on with a sponge, and kept rubbing to try and remove the excess sealer. But that made it look like crap. I did another test piece where I rubbed the sealer on, but didn't try to rub it off. And that came out fine.

I noticed the Fiebings USMC black looks like it is a deeper black. Maybe it penetrated better than the Angelus. I plan on getting some Fiebings Pro Oil black to test that out.

Do you use any dye prep? Was thinking of getting either Feibings dye prep or deglazer. I've got the single shoulder tooling piece of leather from tandy. On my test dye pieces. I just got the leather wet, and soaked it with dye.

[jasonsmith]

I'm going with Feibings Pro Oil Black for my dye. Anyone spray the acrylic sealer on? That stuff is real easy to mess up when you apply it with a sponge. So, I'm gonna look at spraying it on. I've got a Preval. And have a small spray bottle that sprays a mist. I've read of people cutting the acrylic sealer 50/50 with water to cut down on the shine.

[serendipitydesigns]

Hello everyone!

Quick question along the lines of this topic- I am loving using Feibings oil dye; made a dark brown veg-tan bracelet and sealed with "Tan Kote", just out of habit. The bracelet got rained on, and to my dismay this made some very strange, warped, darker spots in the leather. The TanKote didnt seem to be a protective finish at all?! Should I stick with using an acrylic based finish over the oil dyes?

Thanks in advance for any opinions & help :D

Edited January 18, 2011 by serendipitydesigns

[jasonsmith]

Hello everyone!

Quick question along the lines of this topic- I am loving using Feibings oil dye; made a dark brown veg-tan bracelet and sealed with "Tan Kote", just out of habit. The bracelet got rained on, and to my dismay this made some very strange, warped, darker spots in the leather. The TanKote didnt seem to be a protective finish at all?! Should I stick with using an acrylic based finish over the oil dyes?

Thanks in advance for any opinions & help :D

One bad thing about the acrylic sealers is they are very shiny. I was thinking of trying Bag Kote, but if it doesn't seal well like you experienced with the "Tan Kote". Then I guess acrylic is the best option.

The hard part is it is hard to get the acrylic to have a nice even finish. It seems like the Eco Flo sealers takes too long to dry. So, it leaves rings. So far, it seems the Angelus acrylic sealers tend to be more even. The Fiebing's Resolene is way too shiny to use.

[Leather Bum]

I don't know if it is the leather I've used, the dye, or what, but I seem to have noticed that if I dip-dye Fiebing's Oil Dye (that is, submerge the leather in the dye) and remove the excess right away, there is much less dye rub-off when dry. . . Has anyone else noticed similar results?

Anyway, it's just a thought that comes to mind when I see recommendations to apply dye with a dauber or such because it seems frustratingly impossible to remove the excess dye-stuffs that remain on the surface (ending up rubbing forever like RobDude referenced). . .

And on the same note about dipping, you might try Fiebing's Leather Sheen for a not-too-shiny finish (IMHO). I once got an interesting result after dipping an item in Leather Sheen to finish it. To be accurate, I would have to mention that I first rubbed gum tragacanth all over the piece in an attempt to even out the dye coverage after wetting the leather for forming and then letting it dry; I do not know how or if this affected the later application of Leather Sheen. In the end, I would have to say I kind of liked the result anyway. . .

(Note: This was just a prototype holster, and as such there are definite flaws throughout. . . such as the less-than-desirable stitch groove depth [worse on the backside].)

[jasonsmith]

I don't know if it is the leather I've used, the dye, or what, but I seem to have noticed that if I dip-dye Fiebing's Oil Dye (that is, submerge the leather in the dye) and remove the excess right away, there is much less dye rub-off when dry. . . Has anyone else noticed similar results?

Anyway, it's just a thought that comes to mind when I see recommendations to apply dye with a dauber or such because it seems frustratingly impossible to remove the excess dye-stuffs that remain on the surface (ending up rubbing forever like RobDude referenced). . .

And on the same note about dipping, you might try Fiebing's Leather Sheen for a not-too-shiny finish (IMHO). I once got an interesting result after dipping an item in Leather Sheen to finish it. To be accurate, I would have to mention that I first rubbed gum tragacanth all over the piece in an attempt to even out the dye coverage after wetting the leather for forming and then letting it dry; I do not know how or if this affected the later application of Leather Sheen. In the end, I would have to say I kind of liked the result anyway. . .

(Note: This was just a prototype holster, and as such there are definite flaws throughout. . . such as the less-than-desirable stitch groove depth [worse on the backside].)

I've brushed the Pro Oil dye on the leather with a sponge brush and wool dauber. And have had no problems with removing the excess dye. Actually the Pro Oil hardly needs any rubbing compared to the regular Fiebing's dye and Angelus dyes. The cool thing about the Pro Oil is when you brush the dye on, you can see it absorb into the leather almost immediately. I put on two coats back to back as the dye absorbs into the leather so well with the Pro Oil.

The Leather Sheen has a spray bottle and brush on. I may could try both. But last time I sprayed acrylic sealer with a small spray bottle, it didn't work out too well. The Leather Sheen is acrylic. So, I wonder what the difference is between the Fiebings Leather Sheen and Fiebings Resolene.