Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong place, I don't get on well with computers..... we desperately need to know how to thread a 29k58 sewing machine, We have had it a week - no paperwork to tell us anything and it seems it just doesn't want to play:begging:! The top thread is simply not catching the bottom thread, we don't know if it's even threaded right. can anyone tell us in plain simple English how to do it, before tempers get worse, and swearing gets louder. Thank you.:helpsmilie:

  • Moderator
Posted

Ones that were shipped to New Jersey and Northeastern Pennsylvania never seemed to work well. However they thread somewhat like a 4 so I think, can't remember the 58 too well.

Here is the location of the manual for the 4, 62, and 70.

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29-4.pdf

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K62.pdf

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K70.pdf

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals. I love sewing machines except the 29s and 30s. From my limited experience, they don't seem to like anything but 46 or 69 thread and are cantankerous at best, even changing the thread color seems to set them off.

We also have dealer, Bob Kovar who's son Bobby is the bees knees on the 29s. If totally flummoxed, take or send it to Bob in Toledo.

Good luck,

Art

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong place, I don't get on well with computers..... we desperately need to know how to thread a 29k58 sewing machine, We have had it a week - no paperwork to tell us anything and it seems it just doesn't want to play:begging:! The top thread is simply not catching the bottom thread, we don't know if it's even threaded right. can anyone tell us in plain simple English how to do it, before tempers get worse, and swearing gets louder. Thank you.:helpsmilie:

For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!

  • Moderator
Posted (edited)

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals.

Good luck,

Art

:party26:

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

  1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
  2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
  3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
  4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
  5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
  6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
  7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
  8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
  9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
  10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
  11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
  12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
  13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
  14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
  15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
  16. Load a bobbin with thread.
  17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
  18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
  19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
  20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
  21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
  22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

:party26:

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

  1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
  2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
  3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
  4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
  5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
  6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
  7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
  8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
  9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
  10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
  11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
  12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
  13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
  14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
  15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
  16. Load a bobbin with thread.
  17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
  18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
  19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
  20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
  21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
  22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

  • Members
Posted

hi guys, don't know if this is right way to send reply, told you I was rubbish with computers. I am going to print everything off and then try out the instructions. I'll let you know what happens.

Ones that were shipped to New Jersey and Northeastern Pennsylvania never seemed to work well. However they thread somewhat like a 4 so I think, can't remember the 58 too well.

Here is the location of the manual for the 4, 62, and 70.

http://parts.singerc...anuals/29-4.pdf

http://parts.singerc...nuals/29K62.pdf

http://parts.singerc...nuals/29K70.pdf

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals. I love sewing machines except the 29s and 30s. From my limited experience, they don't seem to like anything but 46 or 69 thread and are cantankerous at best, even changing the thread color seems to set them off.

We also have dealer, Bob Kovar who's son Bobby is the bees knees on the 29s. If totally flummoxed, take or send it to Bob in Toledo.

Good luck,

Art

  • Members
Posted

Thank you so much for the details, I am going to print everything off. Will let you know what happens.

:party26:

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

  1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
  2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
  3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
  4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
  5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
  6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
  7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
  8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
  9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
  10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
  11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
  12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
  13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
  14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
  15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
  16. Load a bobbin with thread.
  17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
  18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
  19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
  20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
  21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
  22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

  • Members
Posted

Hi, I have just found the reply sign:head_hurts_kr:I have printed off the instructions and will let yo know how it goes, thanks for your help:thankyou:

  • Ambassador
Posted

Hate to hear that you are having problems.

a fine Bloke that i know lives in Ludlow his name is Ray Hatley i would give him a call

to see if it would be possible to bring the machine to his shop for some first hand

visiual instructions..................

Luke

  • Members
Posted

Hi people, we have spent the last 4 hours trying the instructions, we managed to get 2 stitches done!!! then the thread started to just go up and down and not pick up the bottom thread - we changed the thread and tried again - nothing seems to be happening. We just don't know what we are doing wrong.

The needle size is 19, it's the only packet we have, so you think it could be that?

By the way - thank you Wiz the instructions where easy to follow.

  • Members
Posted

Hi Luke, I'm sorry to say but I think bringing the machine over to the USA may cost a bit too much, even though I'm sure Ray (a relative of yours?) is more than capable of telling us what is wrong.:notworthy:

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...