How Do I Antique Nickel Plating?

[hacken94]

Does anybody know of a way. I've bought some products that work for some nickel buckles, but not for the ones I need.

[jana]

There is a solution that stain glass makers use to antique/darken the leading and copper that they use to construct the window. I have used it to darken brass plates and findings. You can soak the buckles or brush it on then wash off the excess, then buff to get the look you want. Try calling a glass crafter supply shop to see if they have any. One type will give you black tones the other brown. Sorry, I don't know the name of the solution, as my friend who used it just call it "Antiqueing".

Good luck

[ChuckBurrows]

I've tried beau coup methods for nickel plated items over the last 40 years and this is the best/easiest method I've found

1) remove any lacquer finish on the part or remove any oils such as on spots

2) Get some Birchwood Casey Super Blue - it's a gun product available at most gunshops or online

3) Dilute the blue with plain ole rubbing alcohol - start out with three parts blue and one part alcohol - adjust as need be

4) Dip/soak the part in the blue until it turns dark (doesn't take long so DO NOT leave for very long) - it can go dark blue/black if left too long, but is easy to lighten back up with 4/0 steel wool

5) After removing from the blue neutralize with baking soda and hot water then rinse well in plain hot water.

6) Let dry or heat to dry - the heat will change the look some - usually to a more grey color

7) Again scrub back with steel wool if need be

This process leaves a nice gray/blue patina without pits - if you wish to add pits, etc. then there is a another step whihc can be toxic if not done correctly and with care. Actually using any metal patina chemicals (most are scidic) is potentially toxic so use common sense procedures as needed with any toxic chemical.

If yuo take a look at the goods on my website you will see a lot of variations on the nickel plated buckles and spots I regularly use. Also not that the plating on some items such as spots is quite thin and can be removed using chemical aging methods but then actual aged goods will also have the brass showing at times so it's not necessarily a bad thing......

Hope that helps.........

[caroleb13]

Thanks for this tip Chuck. I looked high and low for gunsteel parts with no luck. I tried using the super blue but it just ate away the nickel coating. By cutting it with alcohol and following your procedure it works reasonably well I'm now wondering if the buckle would rust as the nickel coating has been modified ?

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to anodize a nickel coating ? It would be really nice to work with unique metal parts...

I've tried beau coup methods for nickel plated items over the last 40 years and this is the best/easiest method I've found
1) remove any lacquer finish on the part or remove any oils such as on spots
2) Get some Birchwood Casey Super Blue - it's a gun product available at most gunshops or online
3) Dilute the blue with plain ole rubbing alcohol - start out with three parts blue and one part alcohol - adjust as need be
4) Dip/soak the part in the blue until it turns dark (doesn't take long so DO NOT leave for very long) - it can go dark blue/black if left too long, but is easy to lighten back up with 4/0 steel wool
5) After removing from the blue neutralize with baking soda and hot water then rinse well in plain hot water.
6) Let dry or heat to dry - the heat will change the look some - usually to a more grey color
7) Again scrub back with steel wool if need be

This process leaves a nice gray/blue patina without pits - if you wish to add pits, etc. then there is a another step whihc can be toxic if not done correctly and with care. Actually using any metal patina chemicals (most are scidic) is potentially toxic so use common sense procedures as needed with any toxic chemical.

If yuo take a look at the goods on my website you will see a lot of variations on the nickel plated buckles and spots I regularly use. Also not that the plating on some items such as spots is quite thin and can be removed using chemical aging methods but then actual aged goods will also have the brass showing at times so it's not necessarily a bad thing......

Hope that helps.........

[thekid77]

Thanks for this tip Chuck. I looked high and low for gunsteel parts with no luck. I tried using the super blue but it just ate away the nickel coating. By cutting it with alcohol and following your procedure it works reasonably well I'm now wondering if the buckle would rust as the nickel coating has been modified ?

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to anodize a nickel coating ? It would be really nice to work with unique metal parts...

Caroleb hi, you need to keep talking to Chuck....have you seen his work?? His stuff brand new looks 100-200 yrs old....he is a wellspring of knowledge and a very nice guy

check out some of his stuff here:

http://www.wrtcleather.com/

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

No, you cannot Anodize nickel, aluminum and magnesium can be anodized. Anodizing is a process of controlled corrosion on the surface to provide a tough protective layer to protect the part. When done right it is also nonconductive. There are a couple of types of anodizing-decorative, and hard. Decorative is thinner, while hard is just that , a hard layer for rough use. Items like propellers get hard anodized. Anodizing will occur naturally when aluminum, or magnesium parts are exposed to oxygen, it just doesn't form as thick a layer as when commercially done.

Nickel is a protective layer used to prevent rusting when used as a plating on steel items. Bumpers used to be nickel plated, then years later chrome was used over top later to give the bumpers more shine. A triple plated part has copper to smooth the surface, nickel to seal the surface, and chrome to provide the high polish shine. Chrome is porous, so that is why the nickel is used under it to seal the steel.

[Colt W Knight]

Computer board etchant solution found at Radio Shack will antique nickel plating. Be sure to rinse under water after you dip it to neutralize the reaction.

[caroleb13]

Thanks all for the tips and information ! For gunsteel bluing, I've got a more or less satisfactory result following Chuck's method. I've also varnished with a car body varnish to make sure I don't have issues with rust...

Yes, I understand a bit more about anodizing, thanks Biggundoctor (wow, sounds like you keep yourself busy !). Still would have liked some original colored belt buckles. I found titatanium coated buckles but very expensive and not commercially possible.

Have a nice weekend,

Carole

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I am a tool maker for a machine shop, and cars are one of my hobbies.