Newbie Question About Stitching Grooves

[ramrod]

Hi thanks for the complement!

I meant smaller holes as in I not pushing the awl all the way through the leather so that the awl doesn't make such a big hole. Because it seems like the thread is pulling the hole apart at the thinner portions, making the stitching seems wider and fuller. On the thicker portions, the tension of the thread does not pull the hole apart that much, hence the less full looking stitches. Ive tried tugging less tightly at the thinner portions, but it only seems to make the stitching there look even more full. Which is why I suspect smaller holes might work. Anyway I think ill figure it out in a couple more practice projects.

Regarding your method, are you able to do that when stitching 10oz worth of leather together? Even after sharpening my awl it seems impossible to have so much control over it to do that. Maybe I really need to get one of those douglas's awls

if the thread is pulling the leather apart at the thinner portions, make sure that your awl is oriented correctly. i'm assuming that the awl is a diamond. if so, the "points" of the diamond at the largest part of the awl should be oriented at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock. they shouldn't be pointed at each other (as in a santa fe design - sorry - the only illustration i could think of). this will weaken the leather at the hole.

as for 10 oz......i've never worked with leather that thick. but what you could do is poke the awl through until you feel the point starting to come through, then work from the opposite side to connect them. this is the only thing i can come up with. it will take a bit more time to stitch.

[Jimbob]

Thanks for the reply!

Is your awl sharp enough for you to control it as you push your awl through the pieces? I find that for veg tanned leather, anything equivalent to 7oz or more of leather neoeds to be placed flat on a surface and stabbed hard with an awl for it to go through, so controlling it and "fishing" for the groove on the other side is a bit out of the question. Does that mean that my awl isn't sharp enough?

I use a Dremel tool and a small drill bit for exessive tick material.....make grooves on both sides, look on top of edge and feel ur way into the leather....guiding the drill to come out perfectly inside the groove....works anytime....I do my chopper seats like that or thick holsters...

Greetings Jimbob

[RoaringBull]

Just a thought on my part, but if you are very careful to keep the stitches on the bottom piece of leather very straight and accurate, why couldn't you go back after the holes are punched and put the groove in along the line of stitches?

[Kevin]

I didn't quite read all the answers you got, my guess is that on the thinner leather, you're not putting the awl in as deep as you are on the thicker leather and so the holes aren't as big.

Kevin

[terrymac]

I know this is probably against all the rules, but I am using a drill press and my awl. I removed the awl chuck out of the handle, and just inseted the rod into the drill press. I then just use the handle on the drill press to do the stabbing. You can set up a jig to maintain the proper line and distance from the edge, and if you happen to have a laser sight on your press, it really makes hitting your stitch wheel marks a lot easier. I struggled with keeping my awl perfectly straigh, and the front would look great until you turned the piece over and the stitches really wandered. I had finally gotten pretty proficient at keeping it straight, but this makes it almost fool proof. To me, this is a much better option than drilling the holes. Just an idea that works for me.

Terry

[lazybum]

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately I don't have a drill press. I've tried carefully pushing the awl through the leather and "fishing" for it one the other side of the groove. Worked pretty ok so far, just a lot more tedious.

[lazybum]

Just a thought on my part, but if you are very careful to keep the stitches on the bottom piece of leather very straight and accurate, why couldn't you go back after the holes are punched and put the groove in along the line of stitches?

Yeah ive thought of that but the stitching path will still be haywire

I didn't quite read all the answers you got, my guess is that on the thinner leather, you're not putting the awl in as deep as you are on the thicker leather and so the holes aren't as big.

Kevin

Thinner leather is fine, its the thicker leather that is the problem. Once you are off by a small angle your hole may just end up very far off.

[RoaringBull]

One thing that I also do is, when I am about to punch my holes, I will punch holes in the corners or along long lines, after I make sure that the edges are lined up good, and put a needle or pin or something in those holes to hold the entire project still and lined up...it helps me.

[MollyKnly]

1296628972[/url]' post='184793']

I know this is probably against all the rules, but I am using a drill press and my awl. I removed the awl chuck out of the handle, and just inseted the rod into the drill press. I then just use the handle on the drill press to do the stabbing. You can set up a jig to maintain the proper line and distance from the edge, and if you happen to have a laser sight on your press, it really makes hitting your stitch wheel marks a lot easier. I struggled with keeping my awl perfectly straigh, and the front would look great until you turned the piece over and the stitches really wandered. I had finally gotten pretty proficient at keeping it straight, but this makes it almost fool proof. To me, this is a much better option than drilling the holes. Just an idea that works for me.

Terry

Ooooh it is cheating, but i like it!

[GoldenKnight]

Might be a little late on this thread, but something I have done is to lay the grooves AFTER I punch my holes.

1. glue up my pieces & let them dry/set

2. punch my stitching holes with a diamond punch (1, 2, or 4 tine depending on straight or curved path)

3. use my groover and go OVER the holes (on both sides) just punched

4. Use a Q-tip with same color stain in the groove, if applicable or needed

5. now I stitch the project up and the thread lays in the grooves on both sides perfectly.

I have found that by doing this, the thread is flush or slightly below the surface (no snags) on BOTH SIDES in the grooves, and the punched holes also appear smaller and less noticeable as a bonus on my finished product.