Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Hey MB, I just got my Hansen last week and I am loving that splitter. My only concern is that I'm going to screw it up when I have to sharpen the blade.

The only thing that I would modify would be to figure out a way to consistently split at the same thickness.

  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Members
Posted

Hey MB, I just got my Hansen last week and I am loving that splitter. My only concern is that I'm going to screw it up when I have to sharpen the blade.

The only thing that I would modify would be to figure out a way to consistently split at the same thickness.

So did you find a used one or bite the $450 bullet?

  • Members
Posted

So did you find a used one or bite the $450 bullet?

I found a used one for a little less than new. However, after going through a bunch of string it is worth every penny spent.

  • Members
Posted

Hey MB, I just got my Hansen last week and I am loving that splitter. My only concern is that I'm going to screw it up when I have to sharpen the blade.

Go here: http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/

If what' you've got is like the pictures above it's basically a small plane blade and can be sharpened in exactly the same way. With a little practice, the system Brent lays out there will produce edges better than anything else out there. They are terrifyingly sharp. It takes a bit of investment in the setup, and some practice to get right but once you've done that it's quick, simple and it works, very very well.

The only thing that I would modify would be to figure out a way to consistently split at the same thickness.

Scribe a set of lines in the top of the sides using a machinists square. That way you can get back to the same thickness again by putting the edge up to the line you used last time.

-- Al.

Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net

Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net

  • Members
Posted

that is the small Splitter i am looking for :)

wher make this on ??

Go to the "Hansen String Cutter" web site.

  • Members
Posted

Hey MB, I just got my Hansen last week and I am loving that splitter. My only concern is that I'm going to screw it up when I have to sharpen the blade.

The only thing that I would modify would be to figure out a way to consistently split at the same thickness.

The easiest way I found to do that was to hand tighten the blade screws and loosen to start the string. That way you dont lose the thickness set. I bought an Osborne so I didn't use mine any more or I would have added a stop screw that I could set to stop the round after loosening. Just an idea.

Posted

LJensen,

I second Brent's system that Al mentioned for sharpening. I have shared this site several times over the years. I was fortunate that one of the Tool Cutter and Grinding guys that I worked with turned me onto Brent's website in 2002-2003. You should have no problems sharpening the blade if you use his system.

Regards,

Ben

  • Members
Posted

Go here: http://www3.telus.ne...tBeach/Sharpen/

If what' you've got is like the pictures above it's basically a small plane blade and can be sharpened in exactly the same way. With a little practice, the system Brent lays out there will produce edges better than anything else out there. They are terrifyingly sharp. It takes a bit of investment in the setup, and some practice to get right but once you've done that it's quick, simple and it works, very very well.

Scribe a set of lines in the top of the sides using a machinists square. That way you can get back to the same thickness again by putting the edge up to the line you used last time.

Thanks for sharing the link on how to sharpen the blades. Also, I had a similar thought about marking lines on the side of the roller at the different thicknesses.

This site is just a wealth of knowledge. :banana:

  • Members
Posted

I just went and looked at the website and saw that the adjustment on these is via eccentricity in the roller which means it'll be a bit harder to get back to a "zero" point each time. What you need are two marks, one on the top edges of the uprights for the edge of the blade - which will get slightly shorter every time you sharpen it; and one inside the uprights for the height of the roller, which could get trickier to see.

There would be better ways of doing it but they'd require high-precision markings and a slight rework of the way the roller is mounted.

-- Al.

Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net

Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...