Typical Model 2973

[spurdude101]

Hi new the site and new to sewing machines. I have a line on a Typical Model GB2973 with motor and stand. I know this is a shoe cylinder arm machine. I don't know what kind of feed it has or if it will do projects like sewing sheep on a saddle skirt, making a knife sheath or holsters. I read it will sew thru 1/4' leather, but with the hand wheel, might it work a little harder? the price is way low and too good to pass up

[CowboyBob]

This machine was designed for shoe repair & when you sew on something that you want to look nice it won't like nice.It has a top feed using the foot & they have teeth on them to grip the leather,they will leave marks & scratches no matter what you do.So if you stick to thin & soft leather it'll be ok.

They are a great machine too have around for certain things BUT not for finish work.

Bob

[Wizcrafts]

A Singer patcher, or clone machine like this, will not sew holsters or knife sheaths effectively. They are limited to a bit more than 1/4" of leather under the foot. The stitch length gets shorter as the thickness of the material approaches 1/4". The maximum thread that can be used safely is #138 on top and in the bobbin. If the machine has a small dime size bobbin, it won't hold enough #138 thread in one load to sew 2 average belts along both edges.

What Shoe Patchers are built for

Singer began producing the 29 series cylinder arm, universal feed sewing machines in the late 1800s. They were first known as UFM, meaning Universal Feed Machine. The direction of feed is controlled exclusively by the butterfly knobs under the head. Rotating the knobs turns the pressor foot. The foot has sharp teeth under it. These teeth grip the top of the leather and pull it backwards in 360 degrees of rotation. The nose of the cylinder arm is very slim and houses a very small type of bobbin. Early models, like the 29-4 and early 29K models all had a tiny bobbin, about the width of a dime, and 3/16" deep. They are meant to be threaded with #69 bonded nylon or 3 cord unwaxed linen thread.

Most shoe shops have a patcher and use #69 thread on top and in the bobbin, using a #16 or #18 leather point 29x4 needle. This is suitable for patching tears in shoe and boot uppers, or securing loose Velcro straps. It is also great for sewing patches onto leather vests or nylon jackets or baseball caps. I sometimes use a patcher to install zippers into leather coats. They are also great for sewing up purses after opening the inside seams to work on interior rips or additions.

A well cared for patcher is capable of sewing no longer than 5 stitches per inch, at about 6 ounces thickness. At 1/4" your stitch length drops to no more than 6 or 7 per inch. The most thickness that can be fed by the foot is under 5/16"; or 20 ounces.

A worn out patcher will not even reach 5 spi on 4 ounce leather. The stitch length is usually the first thing to go on a patcher.

Patchers use series 29x3 and 29x4 needles, which are available in sizes from #80 up to #160. It is very difficult to push a #160 needle through 16 ounces of belt leather, with #138 thread on top and bottom. That is what you would probably want to use to sew 20 ounce leather holsters.

The teeth leave deep marks in veg tan leather and tend to slip on polished top finishes. If the feed slips, your stitch length will vary all over the place. One tends to tighten the top spring pressure to compensate for slippage, making the tooth marks even worse.

Edited January 18, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[spurdude101]

Thanks for the reply's and info. After receiving the machine, I see it's limitations. It was a good deal, and for $250.00 including stand and clutch motor, I figured I couldn't do wrong, as long as it wasn't broken. now this machine shows no sign of wear, that is to say the paint looks original and clean, the motor and stand show no wear, so I'm assuming it isn't worn out. however, I can't seem to get it to feed. the foot moves back and forth it doesn't seem to rise. it just sits there and rocks back and forth. so I guess I'll run it into the shop, Ralf's sewing here in Denver. and see how bad a decision I might have made. As for the work, I can see having it around to do what it was intended for. provided I can get it going and still come out ahead. any ideas on why it won't feed? thanks, ps sorry for the delay, I was out of town..

[Wizcrafts]

... however, I can't seem to get it to feed. the foot moves back and forth it doesn't seem to rise. it just sits there and rocks back and forth. so I guess I'll run it into the shop ... any ideas on why it won't feed?

Yep. The lift block on the back , over the long pressure spring, that engages the pressor foot lift lever, must be set too far towards the front of the machine. Move it toward the back and you'll get lift. If your machine does not have the leaf spring, but a coil spring for top tension, the lift assembly is on the back of the head and has a butterfly thumb nut to tighten the movable piece with the marks: L-M-H, which set the amount of lift of the foot. If that lift block is missing the thumb nut, or other pieces, there will be little or no lift. If the metal cam block behind that assembly is loose, or misaligned, lift will suffer. Move the L-M-H block towards the front of the machine to increase lift, or away to reduce it. Reposition the cam block behind it to get back missing lift range. Just be sure to allow the foot to go all the way down between strokes.

[spurdude101]

Yep, that was it, it's a pretty simple machine, so it matches me pretty good...simple that is. I figured it out and got it feeding good now. thanks for your input. now one last question for now.. this is the model 2972 with the dime sized bobbin. so, can the rack box where the bobbin shuttle lives, be interchangable with the 29B rack box which has the bigger bobbin. although I ain't ever seen them, my common sense tells me that if the casting is the same, then I should be able to upgrade to the larger rack box bobbin of the 29B,that is if I can find on, and it is not too much $. what do you think? thanks again.

[spurdude101]

found out the answer to my last question in case anyone wants to know.. the answer is no. you can not just swap the shuttle box out for the bigger bobbin shuttle. the cams inside have to be replaced as the stroke of the shuttle connecting rod is longer. so will not be upgrading. thanks for your help.