Rolling The Cantle Binding

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

I use a "cantle binding edger" that I got from Weaver. It has about a 4"/5" long curved front before it gets to the actual edger part. It has what looks to be a #3 french edger on it. It works really slick and makes triming off the excess easy.

Bob

[Billy H]

Thanks Guys!

I just don't know? I think maybe I am not working the rinkles out enough or in the wrong direction.

The old saying-----pictures are worth a thousand words would hold true in this case.

Denise if you happen to read this would you bring up that one thread on how to post pictures please. For some reason I just can not get it done and can not find that thread.

Lots of good people on this forum and a whole lot of talent! Billy

Edited February 17, 2011 by Billy H

[Denise]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15122

Here you go, Billy. It is pinned at the top of the Computer Help section.

[Billy H]

Thanks Denise!

[mworthan]

FYI... Many thanks to all who contributed. Seems that this little post has made a huge difference in the way my cantle binding went on this go around and I want to thank those guys who suggested that I cut a straight or slightly arced binding. I used Bruce's concept of an arced binding and it almost folded itself around the cantle back, very little shaping to work out the wrinkles. On odd thing you do have to fight is the binding wanting to go straight between the temporary nails along the stitch groove. This wasn't much of a problem when I was ready for glue up as I just soaked it good after the glue dried and followed the line in a smooth arc with a wet binding. Another thanks to Aaron at Panhandle Leather who recommended Masters Glue over the Barge I have been using. Aaron seems like a super nice guy and I have started ordering my HO from them. been getting good stuff. Good lord that was some nice glue to use and goes on like a dream without having to push it around like crazy and wait forever for it to dry. About the consistancy of evaporated milk. Anyway, thanks everybody. This is a great resource for getting things done quicker (and better) when your stuck out here like I am. - Mike

Edited March 8, 2011 by mworthan

[Aurelie]

I SO love this forum !

it's like Alibaba 's cave!!

a handful of tricks

great!

here is the way i learnt from a Montana's saddle maker (not sure it's the right or best way...but sure i will improve it with time and adding my own tricks )

so far it works rather good

1/ cut a strip of leather of the length of the cantle that you take in the belly of the hide

2/ skive it down to 1/8" or a bit less (according to the "feeling " you have with the leather)

3/ saturate it

4/ wood glue on it

5/ you screw it under the cantle, behind the ear of the seat (temporary screw)

6/you pull on it, stretch it around the cantle so that it comes nice on the seat

7/ screw on the other side

then i do as said up there : using a srewdriver or an edger and i push on the leather underneath the cheyenne roll to form the leather

=> here the trick is : if leather too wet, it won't hold shape

you may have to use a bit your hairdryer to cheat a bit

at some point , you have to remove the screws and cut the extra leather on the sides

8/ let it dry

9/ mark the stitching line on the biding

10/ (tricky part - even more here in france because the drill bits are shorter than there in the USA) you use your dremel and drill the holes

(second tricky part) and you try to drill "straight" so that if you look underneath the cheyenne roll , the stiching line is the same nice one than on top of the cheyenne roll (and believe me : it's NOT easy)

and last :

11/ you stitch it by hand

after that i put the saddle "up side down" so that i can see the underside of the cheyenne roll then i mark a nice line along the side of the cheyenne roll and i cut the extra leather with a knife (with EXTRA care because you do not want to cut the back cantle)

then i wet it and rub down to make it flat and nice (as nice as i can )

and FYI and if it can make you feel better :

I swear a LOT when working on my saddles

My biggest trouble so far? drilling holes in a neat and nice line underneath

and i wish i had longer drill bits

And 1 question : Have you an easy way to put on binding on straight cantles???

the way i have just "scare me off"

=> you drill the holes halfway from one side (because the drill bits are never long enough) and then you have to drill from the other side and cross fingers so that you meet the other hand of the hole and you stay straight.......

[harrington]

OH NO! not the drill bit for sewing, I mean no disrespect to your teacher, but you need to call Bob Douglas in Sheridan, Wyoming and get a good awl blade and learn to hand sew the traditional way. The drill bit removes material and you will never get a straight line. With an awl blade in a good haft you will eventually learn to sew beautiful lines of stitching that looks like it was done on a sewing machine, tight, clean, and uniform.

[Aurelie]

:D i am "open minded"

:D

if you have an idea to "avoid" using a dremel...i am up to use it!

because it's more a "pain in the butt" than a joy since usually the drill bit is on the short hand and it's really tricky to avoid "nasty marks" on the leather

:D

thanks for the tip ! i will email him (easier than phone regarding time zone héhé :D)

[harrington]

I'm assuming there are some posts somewhere on the site about handsewing with an awl and two needles, but you can also get Al Stohlman's book, Handsewing Leather, for a good resource. Were you able to get in touch with Bob Douglas? His daughter owns Sheridan Leather Outfitters and she may be easier for you to reach. Good luck

[Aurelie]

Not yet Harrington but i know how to get in touch with his daughter !

Took me eons to find her when i needed a "special" punch but now i know how and where to find her!

i should be in Sheridan in May 2012 so i guess i can order and pick it up then