Need A New "finish" Coat For Bull Hide Belts

[ABC3]

I would like to try a new/different finish on my Bull Hide belts.

I now dye with Fiebings Pro Oil, let dry overnight and seal with Atom Wax, buff & apply final coat. Generally Bag Kote. Is there something else that would work so as to not allow the dye to transfer on to clothing.

Thanks for any and all help.

[bison]

I use Clear-Lac from Springfield Leather...it's the "new" Neat-Lac.

[ABC3]

Bison, is it pron to crack ?

I use Clear-Lac from Springfield Leather...it's the "new" Neat-Lac.

[bison]

Not so far. I use it on photo albums, book covers, etc. I use really thin coats. Others on the forum use it too. I don't thin, but I know others do. Maybe you can find a post on thinning Neat-lac.

Dave

[TwinOaks]

You can eliminate a lot of the color transfer by buffing the dried belt. This eliminates the non-absorbed dye particles. I've been finishing belts with home-made resolene, which is an acrylic wax/sealer. Two light coats, with drying between them. After the second coat dries, buff to a gloss and it's done.

[ABC3]

TwinOaks: Do you cut the Resolene w/ water ? And if I understand you - you use the Resolene as a final coat after the sealer coat.

Thanks for your help.

You can eliminate a lot of the color transfer by buffing the dried belt. This eliminates the non-absorbed dye particles. I've been finishing belts with home-made resolene, which is an acrylic wax/sealer. Two light coats, with drying between them. After the second coat dries, buff to a gloss and it's done.

[jasonsmith]

You can eliminate a lot of the color transfer by buffing the dried belt. This eliminates the non-absorbed dye particles. I've been finishing belts with home-made resolene, which is an acrylic wax/sealer. Two light coats, with drying between them. After the second coat dries, buff to a gloss and it's done.

If you put on two coats of Pro Oil dye. How long do you wait before you put on the 2nd coat of dye? And do you buff the first coat before you put on the 2nd coat of dye?

[mendedbowl]

Hi TwinOaks,

can you give more info about your home-made resolene please?

thanks for any info,

ken

[Jaymack]

I am also interested in your home-made resolene.

I tried and liked Clear-Lac, but it cause me a severe Dermatologic Reaction. The doctor said it was Contact Dermatitis. I even tried to apply it on belts while in my garage with both doors open, but it still affected me.

I'm looking for the best product or combination that prevents dye from bleeding onto your clothes.

Thanks,

John

[TwinOaks]

Anytime you apply dye, you should buff it (you'll have to experiment with dye + conditioner like oil or lexol to see which way you like....there's lots of info here). Allow it to dry between coats if you're doing more than one. I use a 'box o' rags' from the local boxmart or Lowes, paint dept. It's really nothing more than t-shirt scrap material. I like it because it's soft, has a fine weave, and is white which shows any color transfer as you rub/buff with it. You need to buff it to get rid of any solid particles from the dye that aren't dissolved or didn't get absorbed. Keep buffing until there no transfer. After that I apply a coating of my super-secret-can't-tell-anybody-about-it-or-the-leatherati-will-come-and-get-me homemade version of resolene.

It's Mop-n-Glo. You can cut it with water if you want to, just be aware that it's already pretty thin. I swap back and forth between straight from the bottle and 50/50 mix. Kinda depends on what I'm putting it on. Y'all don't thank me, I got the idea from this forum....I think Katsass has posted a couple of sheaths that are done it. I tried it on a multi-tool sheath and it works very well.

[jasonsmith]

Anytime you apply dye, you should buff it (you'll have to experiment with dye + conditioner like oil or lexol to see which way you like....there's lots of info here). Allow it to dry between coats if you're doing more than one. I use a 'box o' rags' from the local boxmart or Lowes, paint dept. It's really nothing more than t-shirt scrap material. I like it because it's soft, has a fine weave, and is white which shows any color transfer as you rub/buff with it. You need to buff it to get rid of any solid particles from the dye that aren't dissolved or didn't get absorbed. Keep buffing until there no transfer. After that I apply a coating of my super-secret-can't-tell-anybody-about-it-or-the-leatherati-will-come-and-get-me homemade version of resolene.

It's Mop-n-Glo. You can cut it with water if you want to, just be aware that it's already pretty thin. I swap back and forth between straight from the bottle and 50/50 mix. Kinda depends on what I'm putting it on. Y'all don't thank me, I got the idea from this forum....I think Katsass has posted a couple of sheaths that are done it. I tried it on a multi-tool sheath and it works very well.

Thanks. I knew about the buffing the leather to remove excess dye when you're done. But wasn't sure if it needed buffing inbetween coats. I like the Pro Oil dye as it has little buffing.

If you allow the leather to dry inbetween coats. I'm assuming you don't have to rewet it for the 2nd coat? I was going to figure 10-30 minutes inbetween coats.

For my first coat, I first put on Fiebing's Dye Prep. That is supposed to clean the leather and I believe prep it to accept dye like you do with brushing water onto the leather before you dye.

[jasonsmith]

I am also interested in your home-made resolene.

I tried and liked Clear-Lac, but it cause me a severe Dermatologic Reaction. The doctor said it was Contact Dermatitis. I even tried to apply it on belts while in my garage with both doors open, but it still affected me.

I'm looking for the best product or combination that prevents dye from bleeding onto your clothes.

Thanks,

John

Have you tried the acrylic sealers? Like Fiebing's Resolene, or Eco-Flo Satin shene or Gloss shene. Angelus also makes some acrylic sealers as well. I believe the acrylic sealers are the most popular as I believe they are more permanent than other types of top coats.

I say it would be nice to figure out what name brand leather belt makers use to seal their belts, as I've never had a store bought leather belt bleed dye.

[ABC3]

I guess I'm getting alittle confused. I use Fiebings Pro Oil (dip for about 10-12 seconds let dry overnight). Then buff and seal with Atoms Wax. Buff again, and then a coat of Bag Kote for the final coat. My problem is that I am having some belts start to crack.

My question is: Can you use Resolene 50/50 as a final coat and do away with the Bag Kote ? The Mop-N-Glo, I am not familiar with at all.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Have you tried the acrylic sealers? Like Fiebing's Resolene, or Eco-Flo Satin shene or Gloss shene. Angelus also makes some acrylic sealers as well. I believe the acrylic sealers are the most popular as I believe they are more permanent than other types of top coats.

I say it would be nice to figure out what name brand leather belt makers use to seal their belts, as I've never had a store bought leather belt bleed dye.

[jasonsmith]

I guess I'm getting alittle confused. I use Fiebings Pro Oil (dip for about 10-12 seconds let dry overnight). Then buff and seal with Atoms Wax. Buff again, and then a coat of Bag Kote for the final coat. My problem is that I am having some belts start to crack.

My question is: Can you use Resolene 50/50 as a final coat and do away with the Bag Kote ? The Mop-N-Glo, I am not familiar with at all.

Thanks in advance for any information.

I think alot of people just put on the acrylic sealers like Resolene after they dye.

[ABC3]

That would work fine for me - if it works. I guess I've got 10 or 15 different finish coating products and would love to find just one that I could count on.

Thanks for all your help.

[Shooter McGavin]

Im still a total newb, but doesnt waxing the belt before applying the sealant cause a condition where the sealant doesnt really "adhere" to the belt? Possible thats whats causing the cracking?