Iron Pounder Report post Posted March 14, 2011 Hello, Great forum here. I have been doing lots of reading and bought the hand sewing book most recommend. I'm interested in mainly gun belts and holsters. I went to Tandy and bought a few things to get started. I bought a few belts blanks to practice with and am having a problem. I think the needle they gave me is too large (000 saddle). My awl is razor sharp (dressed in lathe,ha) but hard to get it through far enough to let the needle make it through the hole. Here is what I'm trying to use... size 000 harness needle round awl from Tandy (best one they had) handmade awl from high carbon steel (extremely sharp) plain belt blanks at Tandy I think .250 thick Part # 1220-02 waxed thread (tandy again) Is the needle too large? Just seems that I have to make such a large hole to get thing to work with this size needle that I don't like that look. I told them I wanted a diamond awl but they said they aren't what I want for this I guess. If I need a diamond awl I can make one nicer than I can buy from the way it looks. Go easy on the new guy:whatdoyouthink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timd Report post Posted March 14, 2011 A sharp diamond awl will make your life much easier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted March 14, 2011 You definitely need a diamond awl, sharpened and polished in the way described here . . . http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saa.html. As Timd says, it will make life a whole lot easier! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iron Pounder Report post Posted March 14, 2011 Dang I knew I should have just went ahead and bought one. They say it causes the sticking to be all over the place and easier for the leather to split with the cuts it makes. Is my needle the right size? Do most of you find the tools you buy to be lacking and end up making your own? I spent a few hundred and have very few tools that I won't end up making replacements for. That's what i get for taking my daughter with me and being in a hurry. I guess I should have looked at them a bit closer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bkingery Report post Posted March 23, 2011 Dang I knew I should have just went ahead and bought one. They say it causes the sticking to be all over the place and easier for the leather to split with the cuts it makes. Is my needle the right size? Do most of you find the tools you buy to be lacking and end up making your own? I spent a few hundred and have very few tools that I won't end up making replacements for. That's what i get for taking my daughter with me and being in a hurry. I guess I should have looked at them a bit closer. Obviously the Tandy person who talked you out of buying the diamond awl didn't know **** about hand sewing, if you hold the awl at an angle when you push it through when you stitch the leather actually grabs the thread. I would be very disappointed with this person. Diamond awls have been used for thousands of years so I would trust that. There was some bone awls found on Kodiak Island a few years ago that they think are almost three thousand years old. Hmmm wonder if they were on to something. As far as remaking the tools if you can go for it if it's easy for you. i think the craftools actually help me be a better leatherworker because I have to adapt to make them work better. Just my .02 hope it helps. Peace Bryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted March 23, 2011 Iorn Pounder, when you go back to Tandy buy the book "Hand Stiching" by Al Stolman. a lot of questions will be answered . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LilRay Report post Posted March 23, 2011 Gonna chime in with another related question. Are 4 prong diamond chisels as effective as awls? What's the most common spacing? God Bless, Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timd Report post Posted March 24, 2011 Ray, I use the chisel on thinner leather, say sewing 2 3oz. pieces together. On thicker leather it makes the holes too big, although I sometimes will use it to lay out my stitch line on the thick stuff. I use the 1/8" chisel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted March 24, 2011 For belts and holsters, using 8/9oz leather, FORGET about diamond chisels. I tried that. Broke two of the Tandy 4-prong diamond chisels (made of pot metal, apparently) before I gave up and started drilling holes. Then katsass schooled me in the merits of diamond-shaped stitching awls, and I got one, and once I got comfortable with its use, I'd never go back. As for belts, I've made ONE. I'll probably make one or two more, for myself. I wouldn't want to try it as a commercial venture, though, because it takes HOURS and HOURS to HAND-stitch a belt. Think about it. 40-60 inches of belt, stitching on both sides, 5-6 stitches per inch. That's at least 400 stitches. And you need about 4 times the length of thread as the length of the work. You spend most of your time pulling the thread through...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LilRay Report post Posted March 24, 2011 Ray, I use the chisel on thinner leather, say sewing 2 3oz. pieces together. On thicker leather it makes the holes too big, although I sometimes will use it to lay out my stitch line on the thick stuff. I use the 1/8" chisel. I'm gonna be making a few wallets for friends. I don't guess the leather is over 4-5 oz For belts and holsters, using 8/9oz leather, FORGET about diamond chisels. I tried that. Broke two of the Tandy 4-prong diamond chisels (made of pot metal, apparently) before I gave up and started drilling holes. Then katsass schooled me in the merits of diamond-shaped stitching awls, and I got one, and once I got comfortable with its use, I'd never go back. As for belts, I've made ONE. I'll probably make one or two more, for myself. I wouldn't want to try it as a commercial venture, though, because it takes HOURS and HOURS to HAND-stitch a belt. Think about it. 40-60 inches of belt, stitching on both sides, 5-6 stitches per inch. That's at least 400 stitches. And you need about 4 times the length of thread as the length of the work. You spend most of your time pulling the thread through...... Gotta find a diamond awl then. How does one mark spacing then? God Bless, Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted March 24, 2011 You might check out "overstitch wheels". They're basically spiked wheels attached to a handle. You just roll the wheel along your stitch lines, and it dimples the leather in regular increments. They make different sizes. 5 or 6 holes per inch is pretty standard. I have one, and tried it, but couldn't see the marks consistently, so I usually just wing it. The bad news is that it's sometimes pretty OBVIOUS that I'm winging it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azrider Report post Posted March 24, 2011 When you use an overstitch wheel, dampen the leather first. It makes it a lot easier to see the marks. I do all my stitching in a channel I gouge first, and just run my sponge along the channel before the overstitch wheel. If I dampen it right, I can actually feel the marks with the end of the awl, and don't have to look quite as closely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lazybum Report post Posted March 24, 2011 Alternatively, get the diamond chisel and use it to mark the stitch holes by tapping it with a mallet. This makes it easier to angle your awl, though it takes a bit more time. Japan and the UK sells better quality diamond chisel. They're usually referred to as pricking irons. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites