Members dickf Posted March 17, 2011 Members Report Posted March 17, 2011 I used to airbrush my dye because it was the only way I could seem to get an even shade of brown, but realized that holsters that get used hard will show scratches and scuffs very easily. The dye just doesn't penetrate the leather far enough when applied by airbrush only. When making holsters, one should take into account that adequate R&D isn't just you wearing the holster prototype around the house for a week. There are people that depend on this gear every day and most of them don't go easy on it. The more rugged you can make the holster function and the more refined you can make it look or keep it looking, the better. I think the airbrush has it's place in the shop, especially for spraying topcoats, but not for applying dye. My 2¢. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Members particle Posted March 17, 2011 Members Report Posted March 17, 2011 I agree dickf - I recently received back a holster that need to remake because I left too much of the trigger exposed (1911 with a short trigger). The guy only had it for a few days, and it already had a scuff - looked like maybe his ring scratched it or something of the sort (it was airbrushed). I recently applied some Fiebing's pro oil dye on the front of a belt - but this time I used a sponge. As I was applying it, the sponge slipped out of my hand and a LOT of dye soaked into the leather. I was ticked because I thought I'd totally screwed it up. A couple days later when I was able to work on it again, I noticed the dye had evenly dissipated into the leather and the dark spot was gone. That really got me to thinking about how I apply my base coat of color. So, I bought a section of wool to cut into squares so I can practice applying it by hand. I'm not sure I'm ready to dip-dye though, as I still like leaving the flesh side natural. Applying the dye by hand will probably make it pretty though to keep the backside from getting drips though... Still learning. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members Fredo Posted March 17, 2011 Members Report Posted March 17, 2011 If you guys are willing to do a little work a money saving idea I used is to make your own set up (compressor). You can buy the HF airbrush compressor but the probelm with those is the lack of consistant presure. What I did was found a portable air taink on craigls list and plumbed my chepo HF compressor with an inline regulator to it. Now I have constant "regulated" presure for my brush. It made a world of difference in the ability to control the amount of dye being applied. Of course you can buy the smallest tank encluded set up from h0ome depot, lowes etc and be very happy with it also. Never under estimate the value of used items like compressors and tanks on craigsllist. Quote
Members Relly Posted March 25, 2011 Members Report Posted March 25, 2011 I have been looking at airbrushing, too, thanks to the *crosses fingers* fat tax refund that I'm getting soon. So here's the deal, I bought this book first: "Airbrush: The Complete Studio Handbook" by Radu Vero That book is not really optional reading. I needed to know what it contained. Knowledge is power. ... and based on that, here's what I am going to want for my rig. 1. a foldable, portable spray booth. 2. a face shield or goggles (probably goggles) 3. a face mask (okay, I lie ... probably not going to use that unless I am indoors) 4. a pressure regulator 5. a pressure gauge 6. a dehumidifier 7. a compressor and maybe an air tank 8. a dual action airbrush My thinking is that, if I am going to get a rig, I want the necessary tools to make it work, and work well. FWIW. Relly Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted March 28, 2011 Members Report Posted March 28, 2011 Are you guys using an oil/water seperator inline before the airbrush to keep compressor oil and condensation out of the airbrush and subsequently the finish? Quote Craig Collier ~Grizzly Custom Knives~
Members Relly Posted March 28, 2011 Members Report Posted March 28, 2011 Are you guys using an oil/water seperator inline before the airbrush to keep compressor oil and condensation out of the airbrush and subsequently the finish? I plan on doing that, yeah. Quote
Tree Reaper Posted March 28, 2011 Report Posted March 28, 2011 I use one at the compressor and one at the gun. Are you guys using an oil/water seperator inline before the airbrush to keep compressor oil and condensation out of the airbrush and subsequently the finish? Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted March 30, 2011 Members Report Posted March 30, 2011 Another question: how good is the dye penetration into the leather using an airbrush? Quote Craig Collier ~Grizzly Custom Knives~
Members particle Posted March 30, 2011 Members Report Posted March 30, 2011 Not great... However, I think the penetration is directly proportional to the amount of coats you put on it. You'll probably never get as thick an application as you would by dipping/daubing it, but with the headaches I've had the last 3 days resulting from applying dye with wool patches - I'll take an airbrush application ANY day!! I'll just start putting it on heavier, or using more passes. I was using 3 passes on my previous work. I'll double that, if not more. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members The Grizzly Posted March 30, 2011 Members Report Posted March 30, 2011 For single colors like black and dark brown, I may stick to my wool daubers. For lighter browns and 2 tones I'd like to use an airbrush. I really like the look of a lighter center with dark brought in from the edges Quote Craig Collier ~Grizzly Custom Knives~
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.