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Eagle, that was me you were talking with on Bladeforums :)

I think I'm still going to pick one up and give it a try.

Here's an idea. For the 2 tone holsters/sheaths couldn't you swab/dip your item in the lighter color first, then airbrush on the dark accents that fade into the center?

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I gambled that it was going off the name Grizz! I think that would work fairly well IF you could get even enough coverage with a light shade (maybe that's just a problem I have?). You would need to pop for a double action brush off the bat if your only using it for detail work though.

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Here's a quick tip on airbrush penetration and concentration...

First 1-2 coats use the thinned to 50%, this will help the first coat penetrate better (more water or alcohol) and open up the pores.

Next couple of coats use full strength. On the full concentration coat following the thinned coat, don't wait for the thinned coat to dry completely before the next coat.

Airbrush tip: lowering the air pressure below 'normal' recommended values (30psi for bottom feed, 15-18 psi for gravity feed) to about 1/2 and then using the brush at 3/4 open will create a similar effect as a HVLP gun...more dye, less air so it atomizes less & penetrates more.

For a stipple type fade, lower the air pressure to 1/3 of normal and hold it back a bit farther, you'll get a stipple or granular pattern like the black spots in granite.

Here's an example of a quickie two-tone fade I did last night using the techniques above with Fiebing Black over a custom mixed Cranberry/Burgundy with Eco-Flow. (Yes, that is spirit based over water based). The lighting contrast is a bit off (they are actually much darker) but it illustrates the idea well enough.

~Chris

post-10543-015574800 1301541494_thumb.jp

Edited by Spinner

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I dip dye my colors now and there is no comparison to using a dauber or airbrush. The dye penetrates to nearly half the thickness of a 7-8oz piece of leather. If the leather gets scuffed or scratched, the color will still remain. The airbrush can produce some of the best looking and more even shades of brown, but it comes at the price of having an easily scratched holster, which happens all the time. I've found that the Angelus line of dyes penetrate the deepest and are the most even colors. I use them exclusively and dip dye them all.

Here's one that was dip-dyed cordovan and the shark dip dyed black. The cordovan comes out even, deep, and rich looking. Pity I botched the photos with this direct sun :P

1911_ultra_iwb_shark_01.jpg

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Thanks for the tips Spinner!!!

Dick- That cordovan looks wonderful!! Great color!

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Hey Sixer, I see your location is NW Mo. If you are near St. Joe, Hobby Lobby usually has a selection of Paasche and Iwata air-brushes. They are way overpriced, though, unless you get the 40% off coupon that is in the sunday paper every week or two.

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Just go to www.hobbylobby.com/weekly/coupon.cfm for their current coupon or go to www.mobile.hobbylobby.com on a cell phone with net access and show the cashier the coupon.

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Hey Sixer, I see your location is NW Mo. If you are near St. Joe, Hobby Lobby usually has a selection of Paasche and Iwata air-brushes. They are way overpriced, though, unless you get the 40% off coupon that is in the sunday paper every week or two.

Thanks for the heads up guys! There is a Hobby Lobby nearby and I was able to find a 40% off cupon. I've been browsing CraigsList as well, but I think Hobby Lobby w/ a cupon will be the way I go. Thanks for all the helpful info! :)

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Well to keep this thread updated - from now on I am dip dying with an airbrush top coat. I'll have to take pictures when I am not on a time crunch but the results were so much better. On black when I cut the slots I didn't even have to go back and dye them! I was still able to get a pretty light coloration as well which was quite a surprise. I was even able to run the stitch groover AFTER dying with no noticeable difference in color..

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Well to keep this thread updated - from now on I am dip dying with an airbrush top coat. I'll have to take pictures when I am not on a time crunch but the results were so much better. On black when I cut the slots I didn't even have to go back and dye them! I was still able to get a pretty light coloration as well which was quite a surprise. I was even able to run the stitch groover AFTER dying with no noticeable difference in color..

Sounds great! I'd love to see some pics when you get a chance.

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My recent post shows the two that I dip dyed light brown and can be found here:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31224

I haven't gotten any more dye to be able to do a comparison just yet though!

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I have airbrushed on and off since 96 make sure you're protecting your lungs any atomized coloring agent is not good for you. IWATA is hands down some of the best. Badger next in line. If you can afford it get a gravity fed. The built in color cup will be easier to rinse out with denatured alcohol. Also TEFLON SEALS are a must look for that when you lay your money down. I have 5 IWATA s and one Badger. And a cheap knock off of an IWATA. My compressor is a homemade silent job refridge compressor on a pancake tank.

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