Moderator Wizcrafts Posted April 2, 2011 Moderator Report Posted April 2, 2011 No, I don't swap wheels. I tend to buy machines that have the best wheel to start with. But, if I need another hand wheel, I'll call "Toledo Bob." Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Trox Posted April 2, 2011 Report Posted April 2, 2011 No, I don't swap wheels. I tend to buy machines that have the best wheel to start with. But, if I need another hand wheel, I'll call "Toledo Bob." No thank you; I will not call him. I am still waiting for some small parts that I paid for last year. He says it lost in the mail. And I he lost a customer I am afraid. Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members stanly Posted May 18, 2011 Members Report Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) harnessman Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:27 AM Stocksuspension, on 28 August 2010 - 11:05 PM, said:were did you buy that pulley? "Hi It is a Hubless weld on stamped steel pulley used around here in Wisconsin on farm equipment. I bought the pulley at Mills Fleet Farm, the local farm supply store. You can also find them at any farm implement dealer. If you do not have a farm implement store handy you can probably find them on line at TSC (tractor supply co.)" You know I liked this idea too, so I went down to my local farm supply store and found th aisle with these. First problem was 3/8" belt is not most common, but even though my Monster Pulley is a 4/8" because they made it wo/ a bottom a 3/8" belt rides lower in grove, but works (means I may not have to change my motor pully to 4/8" after all). Now the question is: how slow is too slow? (I will have a 2 1/2" motor pulley driving 11" when this is over) a 11" instead of 10" because of the low grove thing + cheaper to switch the smaller motor pulleys Trox: I'm still working out details like spacer and belt sizes, mostly due to stocking level zero of some items at farm store. Edited May 18, 2011 by stanly Quote
KAYAK45 Posted May 19, 2011 Report Posted May 19, 2011 Hey guys. I put the 11" on my 111w155 and its great for hand control. I've got Bob's servo and it too is a great way to control a 31-15. The problem I foresee, though minor, is the shaft size on the 30-. It' different than the 111w. I don't remember which way. In addition to welding a hub onto the pulley you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match. It will give you 30- a great speed change! Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members stanly Posted May 19, 2011 Members Report Posted May 19, 2011 Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo) Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)? several trips to outlying farm stores later: 11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing). 4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt). Speeds table: (calculated for a 1750 rpm motor) 2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys) 2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel) 2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11") 5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?) KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match." DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore. (hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all) Quote
KAYAK45 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Posted May 20, 2011 OK Stanley, reamed, drilled, holed, or jest made the right size by a machine guy. Of which I'm Not! LOL Jest gitterdone.. Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members Jimbob Posted May 20, 2011 Author Members Report Posted May 20, 2011 Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo) Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)? several trips to outlying farm stores later:p 11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing). 4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt). Speeds table: (calculated for a 1750 rpm motor) 2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys) 2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel) 2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11") 5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?) KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match." DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore. (hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all) Well.....all gud feedback here.....guess now instead buying A new sewing machine soon, I will have to save up Money to buy a small metal lace.....boy would that be the trick... Making ur own handwheel and hub! Then make small screwak And minor parts.....the possibilities are almost endless....haha... Just a thought... James Quote http://www.elfwood.com/~alien883 First it is just leather....then it is what-ever I can dream off...
Members stanly Posted May 20, 2011 Members Report Posted May 20, 2011 Well.....all gud feedback here.....guess now instead buying A new sewing machine soon, I will have to save up Money to buy a small metal lace.....boy would that be the trick... Making ur own handwheel and hub! Then make small screwak And minor parts.....the possibilities are almost endless....haha... Just a thought... James Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel. As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.) Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here). Quote
Trox Posted May 22, 2011 Report Posted May 22, 2011 Great stuff,let`s see some pictures Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel. As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.) Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here). Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members boyjuki Posted May 26, 2011 Members Report Posted May 26, 2011 The 31 class machine have a counterwieght on the flywheel. It's barely noticable. A regular pully will be OK as long as your not running it to fast. Best thing maybe to do is mount something on the current flywheel, so machine doesn't vibrate. Quote
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