Largest Formed Tank Bib I've Done

[Spinner]

This was a new learning experience for me...the tank was longer than any I've worked with so far and the client wanted full length versus the normal ones I make that come up about 1/2 way under the dash. The effect was great and allowed me to run the studs all the way over the tank creating a nice horizon effect. After the wet-forming, the bib dimensions are: 27" long, 12" wide and 6" deep (there is another 1-3" of leather wrapped under the tank). Studs are rivet-on 12mm chrome domed spots set 1 1/4" apart on center to match the aftermarket seat the client has. W&C 6oz. with 1/8" kangaroo lace - triple loop lacing with extended tooth for the herringbone effect.

Edited April 4, 2011 by Spinner

[leatheroo]

Your bibs have been fantastic, but this one is my favorite..the full length really does look great!! Do you line the bib to stop the backs of the studs scratching the tank?

[GrampaJoel]

Very nicely done, and Matched!!

The dye job looks super also. Is it Vinegaroon, or dye?

Joel

[Spinner]

Your bibs have been fantastic, but this one is my favorite..the full length really does look great!! Do you line the bib to stop the backs of the studs scratching the tank?

Thanks Roo. I do line the bibs with a high quality quilters felt that is nice & soft. To get it cut right, I cut it to the pattern shape , glue it to the bib back using 3m 90 hi-strength spray adhesive and then sew it in spots that won't show like around the dash opening. Once attached, I trim the excess along the lacing at an angle so the felt doesn't show when installed but it protects the paint from the studs and the edge of the lacing (lacing can leave an abrasion line if left to rest on the tank over time).

Very nicely done, and Matched!!

The dye job looks super also. Is it Vinegaroon, or dye?

Joel

Thanks Joel. The color is Fiebing Spirit based dye. I do it in 3 steps to ensure I get an even color and fairly good depth. First to rub the bib down with alcohol to clean and open the pores. Just before it is completely dry, I hit it with 1-2 coats of Fiebing Royal Blue using a Preval sprayer to get a base color down. Let dry for about an hour; then 1-2 coats of Fiebing Black, again with a Preval. Let dry overnight. Next day, a good coat of neatsfoots hand rubbed in followed by a hand rubbed coat of Fiebing Black. I use diaper cloth for the hand dye applications as it seems to put more dye on the piece than I get with lambswool. I like the Preval sprayer over a airbrush or tough-up spray gun as it atomizes the dye less...harder to control overspray but it penetrates better than the other two.

[dragonspit]

Very clean, and very nice. Not only is your work good, its kind of you to let us hear your process as well. Just nice stuff.

Bob

[Spinner]

Very clean, and very nice. Not only is your work good, its kind of you to let us hear your process as well. Just nice stuff.

Bob

Thanks Bob. I've always believed that sharing what little knowledge I have knocking around in my head is me paying my dues to the folks that helped answer my questions when I started out. Pay it Forward and all that.

[Charke]

That's an incredible piece. Getting such clean lines, you must be very patient with your work.

Mark Charke

[Thumper]

This was a new learning experience for me...the tank was longer than any I've worked with so far and the client wanted full length versus the normal ones I make that come up about 1/2 way under the dash. The effect was great and allowed me to run the studs all the way over the tank creating a nice horizon effect. After the wet-forming, the bib dimensions are: 27" long, 12" wide and 6" deep (there is another 1-3" of leather wrapped under the tank). Studs are rivet-on 12mm chrome domed spots set 1 1/4" apart on center to match the aftermarket seat the client has. W&C 6oz. with 1/8" kangaroo lace - triple loop lacing with extended tooth for the herringbone effect.

I want to make one like this for my X. I need details Spinner.

My email is woodspinner at sbcglobal dot net

if you so choose to email me.

[Spinner]

I want to make one like this for my X. I need details Spinner.

My email is woodspinner at sbcglobal dot net

if you so choose to email me.

email sent...enjoy!

[Thumper]

email sent...enjoy!

Thank you kind sir.

[McJeep]

Having wanted to do just this style of bib for my VTX, but having zero wet forming experience, I too would very much like any details that you could share Bro. Did you form it right on the tank itself or have another to work with? Soooooo many questions - I really need to get some hands on with someone who can school me in wet forming.

C'mon - ya know that this bike is in need ;0) (wife thought I needed a tuff shot LOL)

Edited June 3, 2011 by McJeep

[Spinner]

Having wanted to do just this style of bib for my VTX, but having zero wet forming experience, I too would very much like any details that you could share Bro. Did you form it right on the tank itself or have another to work with? Soooooo many questions - I really need to get some hands on with someone who can school me in wet forming.

C'mon - ya know that this bike is in need ;0) (wife thought I needed a tuff shot LOL)

Hey McJeep,

Nice looking X ya got there. I actually own 7 different gas tanks (not including the ones on my bikes) that I use for the wet forming duties. On the 05+ 1800s I actually had to cut openings in the underside of the tanks to give myself somewhere to clamp the leather to. Those flangeless tanks can be a pain to wrap since there is simply nowhere to pin the leather down.

The biggest thing to keep in mind when wet forming the leather over the tank is to put a layer of felt or whatever backing material you plan on using on the tank before the wet form to ensure you maintain the space between the tank and leather. Since the backing material is applied last, if you don't 'plan' for this airspace when wet forming, the bib won't fit when finished. Check your PMs for more info.

Chris

[CanadianIce]

Gorgeous work! I love how it wraps around and flows with the seat!

How thick is the leather that you used? Do you have a tutorial on how to do this?

I just bought myself a little sporty and would love to do something like this to make her more "mine"... but am unsure on how to go about it. I've got some petite calf & goat tooling leather, it's really thin stuff (like 2oz). Would that be too thin?

[Spinner]

Gorgeous work! I love how it wraps around and flows with the seat!

How thick is the leather that you used? Do you have a tutorial on how to do this?

I just bought myself a little sporty and would love to do something like this to make her more "mine"... but am unsure on how to go about it. I've got some petite calf & goat tooling leather, it's really thin stuff (like 2oz). Would that be too thin?

Thanks for the compliments. The leather is Wickett & Craig 6 oz veg-tan. I use two different skivers to thin down the bottom 2-3 inches of the leather where it wraps around and under to about 4 oz. I like to use 6oz to give myself plenty of thickness to give the tooling some depth, the skived section is to simply make wet-forming easier around the bottom. I made up a tutorial a bit ago, here's the link so you can see the process: http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/resources/leatherworking-101/

Chris

[CanadianIce]

Thanks for the compliments. The leather is Wickett & Craig 6 oz veg-tan. I use two different skivers to thin down the bottom 2-3 inches of the leather where it wraps around and under to about 4 oz. I like to use 6oz to give myself plenty of thickness to give the tooling some depth, the skived section is to simply make wet-forming easier around the bottom. I made up a tutorial a bit ago, here's the link so you can see the process: http://tech.bareassc...herworking-101/

Chris

You are the best! That tutorial is awesome... I was struggling in my head on how to make the pattern, and you answered my questions. Love the suggestion for packing tape on the back of paper for the design. That's a great idea!

Thank-you so much for taking the time to create that tutorial!

[dtmmil]

Damn nice!!! I also have a question about the wet forming, when you do it, how do you do it? Do you use the raw leather, wet it down, mount it, let it dry, then dye and do your finishing? I want to make some covers for my air filters on my bike and was trying to figure out how. Thanks