Glue Migrating Out Of My Edges? Any Idea Why?

[The Grizzly]

Weird problem here. Since it's started getting warm here, I decided to do a test on a sheath to see how well this beeswax/paraffin/nfo mix works when the sheath is subjected to heat...in my truck for example.

Using a sheath I completed a few weeks ago, I put the sheath in my console and checked on it about a week later. Here's what I've noticed:

-Wax mixture stayed in the leather, no problems with that = happy

-My glue joint on the edge of the sheath has a couple spots where the glue migrated out through the burnished edge. What would cause this? Imagine a pb&j sandwich that gets squeezed too hard. I'm using the blue tube Barge cement.

-The other problem, is that it looks like my welt shrank inward just a hair making my glass smooth edge look weird.

I'm confused to the cause of these 2 problems. Could it have been the wax mixture that worked down into the leather causing it?

Any ideas would be great!

[Shorts]

Temperature changes from being in the console have an affect on the stuff you use.

[Luke Hatley]

What type of glue did you use.?

[dirtclod]

It sounds like your useing rubber cement by the color of the tube. Get the red and yellow barge cement.

[Luke Hatley]

It sounds like your useing rubber cement by the color of the tube. Get the red and yellow barge cement.

Or even Masters Contac Cement...........

[Art]

Don't use rubber cement, use Master or Duall 88. But I suspect that is not the only problem. The finish might have soaked into the outer layers and not into the welt, then the heating in the truck and the rubber cement might have allowed the two outer layers to expand a little more than the welt. I'm just guessing here. Anyway, use a good contact cement to start, if it happens again, refinish the edge after whatever happens, happens. I doubt the contact cement will squish out.

Art

Weird problem here. Since it's started getting warm here, I decided to do a test on a sheath to see how well this beeswax/paraffin/nfo mix works when the sheath is subjected to heat...in my truck for example.

Using a sheath I completed a few weeks ago, I put the sheath in my console and checked on it about a week later. Here's what I've noticed:

-Wax mixture stayed in the leather, no problems with that = happy

-My glue joint on the edge of the sheath has a couple spots where the glue migrated out through the burnished edge. What would cause this? Imagine a pb&j sandwich that gets squeezed too hard. I'm using the blue tube Barge cement.

-The other problem, is that it looks like my welt shrank inward just a hair making my glass smooth edge look weird.

I'm confused to the cause of these 2 problems. Could it have been the wax mixture that worked down into the leather causing it?

Any ideas would be great!

[The Grizzly]

Hmmm, the cement I have is the tubes they sell at Hobby Lobby.

It's a blue, black and white tube that says:

"Original Barge All Purpose Cement" it's the toulene (sp?) formula.

Is this not the correct cement to be using?

What about using DAP weldwood, I've been hearing people talk of using it with great results.

[dirtclod]

I've got and tried some Weldwood this winter and it didn't stick real good. But after reading on the can it said that the temptuer needed to be above what i can't remember but my shop was colder than that. But i am going to give it another try sense it has warmed up. For all of my glue i put it in a small coke bottle. A plastic one and drill a hole in the cap, then use a piece of trimed sheep skin to put the glue on with. Then use the sheep skin piece to cover the hole.

[Art]

Hi Griz,

It sounds like the right stuff, I don't use the stuff in the tube as it thickens up too much. I like glues like Master where you add thinner to bring it back to fairly thin. You have to let contact dry before sticking it together, it shouldn't be gloppy, it should have a shine when it is ready and be a little tacky, 15 minutes usually, stick it together, give it a little hammering and it should be there forever.

Art

Hmmm, the cement I have is the tubes they sell at Hobby Lobby.

It's a blue, black and white tube that says:

"Original Barge All Purpose Cement" it's the toulene (sp?) formula.

Is this not the correct cement to be using?

What about using DAP weldwood, I've been hearing people talk of using it with great results.

[Shorts]

I use Weldwood and am happy with it. Apply to both surfaces, but not sloppy with excess, just coat the surfaces so both have a sticky layer to bond together.

[The Grizzly]

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking those 2 spots may have been where I had the glue a little thicker than I should have.

It should not be thick, right? Just a thin coat. It should be shiny and dry to the touch when ready, I remember that from Chuck Burrows' DVD. Once it's dry and ready to stick, if there are any spots that aren't shiny (where the glue might have soaked in a bit) should you just add some more to that spot and let it dry?

[Reaper]

Leather Weld works very well here in the heat of Florida. I leave a holstered firearm in my Suburban which is all Black including all the windows but the font doors and windshield. It gets so hot inside it is hard to breath at times when you first get in it.

http://eleathersupply.com/adhesives.shtml

Edited April 14, 2011 by Reaper

[Art]

Yes,

It should be shiny, if not, applyy another coat and let that dry again.

Art

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking those 2 spots may have been where I had the glue a little thicker than I should have.

It should not be thick, right? Just a thin coat. It should be shiny and dry to the touch when ready, I remember that from Chuck Burrows' DVD. Once it's dry and ready to stick, if there are any spots that aren't shiny (where the glue might have soaked in a bit) should you just add some more to that spot and let it dry?

[TwinOaks]

I'm another happy user of Weldwood. If I have a large area to cover, I'll 'wipe' it on, using a hotel key card as a squeegee which leaves a thin but consistent layer. Other than that, I use the in-bottle brush, and just refill the little bottle from a quart can I picked up.

So far, I haven't had any problems with it.

[The Grizzly]

Are there different versions of Weldwood, which one should I look for at the store?

[Shorts]

Are there different versions of Weldwood, which one should I look for at the store?

I buy the full fumed one, in the red can.

[Reaper]

Should the Masters be applied on both sides and let sit until tacky before putting it together?

[Art]

Yes.

Art

Should the Masters be applied on both sides and let sit until tacky before putting it together?

[Reaper]

Thank you Art, just got a Quart in and have never used it. Went and picked it up after reading your mention of it.

I like Leather Weld but it is as creamy as Elmer's and it a pain in the but at time...

[Leatherimages]

This from a long time gluer:

Run a 100 or so grit sand paper over the surface you're going to be glueing. You need to open the grain for it to absorb.

I like to say, "brush the cement on and cover the area well. And then with the same brush, wipe it all off. What's left is just enough."

With many clear contact cements, like Duall 88, Master's All Clear, two coats is recommended. The first coat serves well as a primer, which would be very benifical the closer to the belly one works..

Oh, and "shiney IS a good idea, as Art suggests."

I've been told by the industry people, that the problem with puddles of cement, is that air bubbles can be trapped in there, like in bread, and it can work it's way out o the edge.

Too much oil can cause the glue to release also.

[Reaper]

Thank you Paul, between your instruction and Art's along with all the others I think a few of us have cut back on wasted attempts at gluing for sure.

Got to love this place for sure..