Entry Leather Sewing Machine

[joecool911]

I am interested in entering the world of leatherwork. I've read a lot of threads on sewing machines and cannot get a handle on what is the minimum reasonable cost for a machine that will sew bridle leather. I also have some thoughts of crossing over to canvas project with 10oz and heavier canvas. Can one machine do both?

Thanks

[KAYAK45]

I am interested in entering the world of leatherwork. I've read a lot of threads on sewing machines and cannot get a handle on what is the minimum reasonable cost for a machine that will sew bridle leather. I also have some thoughts of crossing over to canvas project with 10oz and heavier canvas. Can one machine do both?

Thanks

Hi Joe. I think from your handle you like .45. Me too!

O.K. Guy walks into a gun shop and wants ammo. ??? What do you want to shoot? How far away? How much you want to spend for the right ammo? What caliber?

Same for a machine. How thick is the most you want to sew. 10 layers of canvas at seams? Bridle leather of 4 thickness of 8 oz.?

How heavy a thread for the stitch you want? Ask that and get a great answer here!

[TwinOaks]

You're asking the wrong question. Don't worry about the minimal cost of a machine because that becomes your focus. Find a machine that will do MORE than what you think you'll need, then start shopping the prices on those. I think it was Art (from this forum) that said: "Save your money and get a good machine. Hand sewing everything until you get one will help you save faster."

Look for a unison feed machine that will sew at least a quarter inch thicker than your expected maximum. There's LOTS to choose from, but if you go through one of the suppliers here on LW.net, you'll get a machine that is set up TO SEW LEATHER. As you've read, there's a lot that goes into that. If you haven't read that yet, find the thread by Wizcrafts on picking a sewing machine and read it....two or three times.

If that wasn't the answer you were looking for, then how about this: Expect to drop somewhere around two thousand dollars for a new or refurbished machine that will do what you ask.

[tat2]

I would spent up to 1000 on your first machine. You need to think about if you want to use a flatbed or cylinder arm machine. Large to XL bobbin for longer passes. Ensure the machine still has parts available. Sewing a thickness up to 1/2 would be most acceptable. As you progress and get better with sewing you can try more advanced appilcations.

Then you need to look at what brand.... I use the Adler 205-64, 1/2 lift,needle feed machine for most of my work. Fabulous machine.

Singer 144w103 for Flat work has a 3/4 lift walking foot.

You also want to look at not marking the leather which comes with practice. BUY from a dealer who knows what they are talking about. Take your time and ask all the Q's you need in order to buy your first sewing machine!

Good luck!

[dirtclod]

When you find a machine you like. I would take pieces of what ever you want to sew with you or send to the person and have them sew it for you and see if it will do what you want. .

[BrianBoyles]

Are you looking to do leatherwork as a hobby, business or both?

[Wizcrafts]

If I had to start over again, and I did in 2009, I would buy a modern walking foot machine, like a new Consew or Juki, or a Chinese or Japanese equivalent, or a cylinder arm walking foot machine, with a flat table attachment. I would avoid old machines like the plague they usually are. My first time around, I spent several thousand dollars buying old worn out or inadequate sewing machines, until I found the ones that could sew thick leather with heavy thread. If you are really lucky you may find somebody who is selling an Adler 205 at a price you can afford.

With a budget of $1000, your choices are limited for new machinery. You may have to buy a machine with a clutch motor, then, if you can't master the clutch, buy a servo motor later on. A good used Adler will cost you double what you say you want to spend, as will the new Chinese clone machines (which are now excellent).

Here is how I went about purchasing and modifying an industrial sewing machine, in mid-2009. This was before I discovered this forum, with all of its leather machine dealers. Now, one can buy a machine already optimized to sew leather, at very good prices, with awesome followup service.

I watched my local and nearby listings on Craigslist until I found a local company that listed leather and upholstery sewing machines and vinyl for sale. I scheduled an appointment and was first shown a room full of cloth and vinyl material, with a bench full of fur sewing machines and sergers. I told the lady that they were not leather sewing machines, as advertised in the CL listing. I was then taken upstairs, where they had the ugliest Singer 111w155 I have ever seen! It was missing the pressor feet, and was mounted onto an old, cracked, brown wooden table top, with an outside the motor clutch mechanism, as old as Noah's Ark. I declined and was told that there was one more machine, but she didn't know if it was for sale. I insisted on seeing it. The machine was a Japanese built National 300N walking foot machine, with virtually no wear, or dirt, or grease on or under it. It had a 1/2 HP clutch motor and sewed perfectly, on vinyl.

I was able to buy that National for the same price they were asking for the p.o.s. Singer that was missing the feet. Later on, I learned that I could use a longer needle system, type 190, which are used in Pfaff walking foot machines. After raising the needle bar 3/16", to maintain the timing, I was (and still am) able to sew just about 1/2 inch of leather, albeit with #138 thread. Number 207 thread does work, but not as well into ~1/2" of leather. Still, by limiting that machine to 7/16" of leather, I am able to use #207 thread, with a #24 or 25 leather point needle.

I finished off the upgrade by purchasing a SewPro 500GR servo motor with a 2" pulley and shorter v-belt, from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

When it comes to sewing beyond 1/2 inch, you need a big dog, "441" clone machine (clone of Juki 441), or Adler 205 or clone. These will cost you between $1800 and $5900, depending on the brand and length of arm/workspace. For instance, a 9 inch cylinder arm walking foot 4412 clone machine, sold by most of our member dealers, can be bought for about $2100 shipped (or less). The same brand with a 16.5" arm will cost about $2500 to $2700 shipped, depending on if it has all available accessories added to it.

For sewers who only need to sew up to 1/2 inch, and don't mind tooth marks on the bottom, there are the GA1 and Cowboy CB2500 10.5" cylinder arm machines. These machines typically go for under a grand, plus shipping. Adding reverse bumps up the price by about 300 bucks. Roughly $1500 to $1600 investment gets you the machine and most available add-ons, shipped.

Both the CB2500 (GA1 types) and 441 clones (and a real 441) can sew with very heavy nylon thread, #415 or heavier. They use needle sizes 26 or larger, which none of the lesser machines are capable of using. These machines have long, spool shaped bobbins, with disks on the ends, which hold a huge amount of thread. You won't have to stop in the middle of most jobs to change bobbins, if you start with a fully loaded bobbin, tightly wound.

Most standard upholstery type walking foot machines are limited to a #25 needle, maximum. Most of them have small or medium capacity bobbins. If you are able to get the machine to sew with #207 thread, the bobbin will run out after a handful of belts. With the standard system 135x needles, they can only sew to 3/8 inch.

Edited April 26, 2011 by Wizcrafts