KAYAK45 Report post Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) I just put a new clutch motor on my Singer, and without wanting to burn the clutch in, decided it was time for a new pulley. Went to Farm and Fleet, got a 10" pulley for $14, a 1/2" hub $5 and took to a welder to mount hub to pulley. $12. WOW , did that slow her down, and now have great hand control! Had to play with a couple belts to get the right size. All worth while, for the cost. Also had to cut the table belt slot a little wider and deeper with a jigsaw. Edited April 25, 2011 by KAYAK45 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted April 25, 2011 That sounds like it will really slow it down.Great Job. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tat2 Report post Posted April 26, 2011 worth it when you can slow the sewing machine down. I was scared of my Adler for a long time. I would apply foot pressure on the pad and the sucker took off faster than Mustang! The V belts are a pain to see which one will fit. I bought 5 and tested them out until I found to correct one. What are you sewing on your Singer? I hear the servo motors are pretty decent too, allow you to set the output of speed. Never tried one and pretty costly. You made out well with what you spent. REAL MEN SEW!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted April 26, 2011 worth it when you can slow the sewing machine down. I was scared of my Adler for a long time. I would apply foot pressure on the pad and the sucker took off faster than Mustang! The V belts are a pain to see which one will fit. I bought 5 and tested them out until I found to correct one. What are you sewing on your Singer? I hear the servo motors are pretty decent too, allow you to set the output of speed. Never tried one and pretty costly. You made out well with what you spent. REAL MEN SEW!!! The 111w155 is for light weight leather say 3/8" total. It is a true Industrial Walking Foot and handles needles up #24, no reverse. I leave it set up @ 140/22 with 138 thread for liners on holsters and sheaths and to sew stiffener on belt backs. As far as servos, they are great. Yes they are a little "costly" but so are runaways that ruin a project!. I have a servo w/speed reducer on my cowboy 4500 and just put a SEWPRO 500 GR on my Singer 31-15. They are great for adjusting the speed to the job and do not use elect. except when sewing. I just went the other route on the 111w because I have several clutch motors from switching to servos I wont live long enough to wear them out. LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tat2 Report post Posted April 26, 2011 Mine does not have reverse either. Singer, you are right the olde machine have monster 1/4 inside feet!! if you ever need parts ask Ray with Singer online, He found me two really really hard to find parts and charged only 20. worth looking into if you are ever stuck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarklW Report post Posted April 27, 2011 Mine does not have reverse either. Singer, you are right the olde machine have monster 1/4 inside feet!! if you ever need parts ask Ray with Singer online, He found me two really really hard to find parts and charged only 20. worth looking into if you are ever stuck! KAYAK45 I've done the same trick with the pulley and it does work great. Never looked into servos, how much do they run? tat2 I'm looking for the tension release plunger which I can't find, how do I get in touch with Ray with Singer online. Googles not helping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simran Report post Posted April 27, 2011 Glad to here you got that run-a-way machine talking the same language you do now. Things can get ugly fast with a nice piece of leather!! Back when I first started sewing leather; like everyone else quickly wanted to graduate to something besides an old home machine. unsuspectingly, I bought an industrial Singer from an old woman who was retiring from doing alterations. (Don't even remember the model any more) She showed me how well it worked and she made it look easy . . . HAH . . .!!! I took that sucker home all excited to get my buddies motorcycle chaps under the business end of that machine. He wanted a pocket with a snap flap put on the front. I sat down to it and put the left chap leg under the foot; lined up the pocket I'd cut out. (Now right here your probably wondering how my initial practice might have gone before this. Sewing on this pocket WAS my practice. I was a real greenhorn to all of this at that time.) Anyway, with everything lined up we were ready to go. I touched `er off and that dern thing sewed off the edge of that pocket and never stopped `til it was off the edge of that chap leg. I think it took that long for me to react to what appeared to be a real wreck. I never did get so I could actually sew with that machine. I sold it less than a year later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KAYAK45 Report post Posted April 28, 2011 Hey. The ? on cost and your singer expert here @ LW are the same! Get ahold of Bob Kovar @ Toledo Ind. Sewing. AKA sewmun! Great guy who knows his singers and stocks parts! The pulley trick works to forever slow the machine. The servo I got from Bob gives me the choice of slow to fast by setting a knob. Thats why my 111w works on the clutch, slow always...and the 31-15 I can still rip when I do canvas, ETC. Call Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarklW Report post Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks KAYAK45, I'm finally able to spend some time with this machine again and the part I thought I was missing is there. Bob If your watching it's a 111W155 that won't release the thread tension. I don't seem to have enough throw on the tension release when I raise the foot. I've taken that section apart now and can't see the problem. It seems as if the tension release rod is about 1/4" too short. It measures 2 1/4" long. The tension release slide has about 1/8" offset and seems to be intact. Is it just the wrong rod in there somehow? Thanks for any help Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted June 8, 2011 Mark,the bracket the pin pushes on on the back side of the tension unit needs to be bent alittle towards the pin,I do it using 2-scewdrivers put 1 @ the top to hold it while you bend the bottom one out.If you don't understand what I mean you could take the whole tension off & bend it. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarklW Report post Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks Bob, I think I get it, I'll look at it tonight. Seems like a lot to bend, but I'm sure you're right. Thanks again. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted June 8, 2011 The rod is the right length because we used to make them out of a nail,if you wanted to you could make a longer one & grind off as needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
